Quilts - a Question of Thread
12-08-2009, 04:34 AM
#12
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Location: Somerset, England
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I can't really help you with suppliers Joan, I'm in France and order my thread online from the UK. Connecting Threads doesn't seem to have variegated. I did a quick Google of 'variegated quilting threads' and loads of US suppliers came up though. ;-)
12-08-2009, 04:40 AM
#13
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When piecing blocks I use neutral color thread for top and bobbin. I buy the big cones from Connecting thread for piecing and I like very thin thread in my bobbin so when I find size 60 or 80 thread on sale I stock up on that too. For machine quilting I pick a thread that will blend with the back of the quilt. I like thin thread for machine quilting, the stitches sink into the quilt.
12-08-2009, 06:22 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 375
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
When piecing blocks I use neutral color thread for top and bobbin. I buy the big cones from Connecting thread for piecing and I like very thin thread in my bobbin so when I find size 60 or 80 thread on sale I stock up on that too. For machine quilting I pick a thread that will blend with the back of the quilt. I like thin thread for machine quilting, the stitches sink into the quilt.
12-08-2009, 06:36 AM
#16
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 375
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
The bobbin last longer! And the seam is thinner not adding bulk to the seam when pressing to one side.
12-08-2009, 06:15 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 196
To offer some solutions to JoanofPa:
1. Can I use regular thread or must it be quilting.
The type of thread you select is a very personal decision, and it depends upon what look you are going for. I don't like the thread of my machine quilting to be highly noticable on traditional quilts. What I want to see is the texture that the quilting provides. For that reason, I usually use a very fine weight cotton thread (such as Mettler 60/2 cotton embroidery thread or another thread which is called "bottom line" which is a 60 weight polyester thread which is very fine).
When you look at the information on the thread spool and it has a weight/ply count the first number is the thread weight and the larger the number, the finer the thread. The second number is the number of plys, which, just like embroidery floss, is the number of strands you have making up the thread. 2 is thinner than 3 because there are fewer plys of long staple cotton combined to make the strand of thread.
When selecting the color, I unwind a piece of the thread and lay it across the quilt top and then see which blends the most. I will use a thread which blends with the backing (same weight and make whenever possible) in my bobbin. You will have best results if your backing and quilt top are of similar value, then if you have a dark top, let's say, you would have a rather dark thread in your top, and you would have a dark backing and a rather dark thread in your bobbin. That way if there are any little blips where your bobbin thread comes up too far, you won't notice it.
Any thread marked "quilting" is really meant for hand quilting and it is not meant for your machine.
2. If I would try the invisible quilting thread should it be threaded from top or bottom.
If you are using invisible thread, you have a few choices, nylon or poly. Again, the important thing here is the weight. If you use a heavier (often less expensive) nylon thread, you will often feel like you have just quilted your quilt with fishing line. It has a very unwelcoming feel, in my opinion.
The important thing to look for (again IMO) is the weight of that thread, which should be .004 or less.
Those threads come in smoke color for darker fabrics and clear for lighter fabrics and they blend beautifully from one color to another. very useful on things like batiks and fabrics and quilts with high contrast where you don't want to change threads all the time.
3. The biggie for me! Do you all change thread color everytime you move to another color area of the quilt in the works?
When you are piecing the quilt, try to select a good quality piecing thread (i prefer cotton and I love the Mettler mentioned above) which is neutral and blends with the majority of your fabrics. To keep your machine happy, use the same brand thread in the needle and bobbin.
For quilting, your bobbin thread will be consistent and you *may* change the thread in your needle, if you have something like a 2 color quilt. But if you are doing patchwork with a lot of different fabrics, simply try to select a thread that blends well with the majority of the fabrics in your quilt top.
That one baffles me when I see all the contrasting fabrics you use.
If there is so much contrast that you feel your thread is standing out too much, then consider the monofilament .004 clear or smokey.
If you take care to use a fine thread and blend it with the majority of your fabrics, you would be amazed at how well it will blend and you will no longer worry about the need to use a different color. Again you should lay the single strand of thread you are previewing across your quilt top and look at several, selecting the one that blends the best. Looking at the spools laying on the quilt top does not do it.
Thanks! I am learning so much here. Have two table runners to quilt and so seeing that post was really good timing
[color=blue]If you are putting piping hot plates on your runners, you may want to shy away from nylon thread. But if you intend to use them for the center centerpiece and candles, then the nylon or poly would be fine.
The only time I don't consider monofilament/nylon or poly is on baby quilts. If the quilting ever pulls out, it is possible (though not likely) that tiny fingers may be caught in the loose stitches and the thread would not give.. Cotton thread would not pose as much of a threat to little ones.
If you have trouble finding threads to try or to use. you can look for them on a supplier web site:
http://www.checkerdist.com/products/threads
if you place them from the site into a wish list, this web site will order the threads for you and ship to you (you can't order directly off the supplier site unless you are a store).
http://www.quiltersparadiseonline.co...les=0&lastmenu
Hope this helps.
Lisa
Water Mill NY
1. Can I use regular thread or must it be quilting.
The type of thread you select is a very personal decision, and it depends upon what look you are going for. I don't like the thread of my machine quilting to be highly noticable on traditional quilts. What I want to see is the texture that the quilting provides. For that reason, I usually use a very fine weight cotton thread (such as Mettler 60/2 cotton embroidery thread or another thread which is called "bottom line" which is a 60 weight polyester thread which is very fine).
When you look at the information on the thread spool and it has a weight/ply count the first number is the thread weight and the larger the number, the finer the thread. The second number is the number of plys, which, just like embroidery floss, is the number of strands you have making up the thread. 2 is thinner than 3 because there are fewer plys of long staple cotton combined to make the strand of thread.
When selecting the color, I unwind a piece of the thread and lay it across the quilt top and then see which blends the most. I will use a thread which blends with the backing (same weight and make whenever possible) in my bobbin. You will have best results if your backing and quilt top are of similar value, then if you have a dark top, let's say, you would have a rather dark thread in your top, and you would have a dark backing and a rather dark thread in your bobbin. That way if there are any little blips where your bobbin thread comes up too far, you won't notice it.
Any thread marked "quilting" is really meant for hand quilting and it is not meant for your machine.
2. If I would try the invisible quilting thread should it be threaded from top or bottom.
If you are using invisible thread, you have a few choices, nylon or poly. Again, the important thing here is the weight. If you use a heavier (often less expensive) nylon thread, you will often feel like you have just quilted your quilt with fishing line. It has a very unwelcoming feel, in my opinion.
The important thing to look for (again IMO) is the weight of that thread, which should be .004 or less.
Those threads come in smoke color for darker fabrics and clear for lighter fabrics and they blend beautifully from one color to another. very useful on things like batiks and fabrics and quilts with high contrast where you don't want to change threads all the time.
3. The biggie for me! Do you all change thread color everytime you move to another color area of the quilt in the works?
When you are piecing the quilt, try to select a good quality piecing thread (i prefer cotton and I love the Mettler mentioned above) which is neutral and blends with the majority of your fabrics. To keep your machine happy, use the same brand thread in the needle and bobbin.
For quilting, your bobbin thread will be consistent and you *may* change the thread in your needle, if you have something like a 2 color quilt. But if you are doing patchwork with a lot of different fabrics, simply try to select a thread that blends well with the majority of the fabrics in your quilt top.
That one baffles me when I see all the contrasting fabrics you use.
If there is so much contrast that you feel your thread is standing out too much, then consider the monofilament .004 clear or smokey.
If you take care to use a fine thread and blend it with the majority of your fabrics, you would be amazed at how well it will blend and you will no longer worry about the need to use a different color. Again you should lay the single strand of thread you are previewing across your quilt top and look at several, selecting the one that blends the best. Looking at the spools laying on the quilt top does not do it.
Thanks! I am learning so much here. Have two table runners to quilt and so seeing that post was really good timing
[color=blue]If you are putting piping hot plates on your runners, you may want to shy away from nylon thread. But if you intend to use them for the center centerpiece and candles, then the nylon or poly would be fine.
The only time I don't consider monofilament/nylon or poly is on baby quilts. If the quilting ever pulls out, it is possible (though not likely) that tiny fingers may be caught in the loose stitches and the thread would not give.. Cotton thread would not pose as much of a threat to little ones.
If you have trouble finding threads to try or to use. you can look for them on a supplier web site:
http://www.checkerdist.com/products/threads
if you place them from the site into a wish list, this web site will order the threads for you and ship to you (you can't order directly off the supplier site unless you are a store).
http://www.quiltersparadiseonline.co...les=0&lastmenu
Hope this helps.
Lisa
Water Mill NY
12-08-2009, 06:19 PM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,688
When I bought my machine--the seller suggested only nylon thread--lint issues I guess. I've stuck with it. Gutermann is what it likes. I change colors all the time. :-D
I always do as Lisa mentioned--lay a strand of thread across a top to decide thread color. My quilter and I lay several out before a decision is made.
I always do as Lisa mentioned--lay a strand of thread across a top to decide thread color. My quilter and I lay several out before a decision is made.
12-08-2009, 06:46 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Front row
Posts: 14,646
I like Coats and Clark bobbin thread on the mini king cone, not the spool. It's very thin and strong. My bobbin seems to last forever using it. http://www.coatsandclark.com/Product...bin+Thread.htm
Another good bobbin thread is Bottom Line thread by superior threads. http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...e/description/
Another good bobbin thread is Bottom Line thread by superior threads. http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...e/description/
12-09-2009, 01:00 AM
#20
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Somerset, England
Posts: 10,686
Lisa that is great info thanks! :-D
I do use the quilting thread in my machine and have had issues with the fibres gradually clogging up the eye of the needle then the thread snaps. It's not too serious - say on the FMQ of a bed quilt, it happens 2 or 3 times in total. But it always makes me say bad words because of course everytime it happens - that's FOUR more ends to sew in! I've just got some top stitch needles (on the recommendation of a more experienced friend) and am going to give those a try. They have a larger eye so should help with this. :-D
I do use the quilting thread in my machine and have had issues with the fibres gradually clogging up the eye of the needle then the thread snaps. It's not too serious - say on the FMQ of a bed quilt, it happens 2 or 3 times in total. But it always makes me say bad words because of course everytime it happens - that's FOUR more ends to sew in! I've just got some top stitch needles (on the recommendation of a more experienced friend) and am going to give those a try. They have a larger eye so should help with this. :-D
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