Some factors in getting a block to finish at "the intended size"
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Southern Minnesota
Posts: 4,362
Thanks for posting this. Those "rules" have been in my brain for some time, but the taking time to do them is often lacking in my eagerness to get on with what I want to make. I tell myself, as long as I stay consistent in my cutting, piecing, pressing, it will be okay. Most of my quilts do not end up the finished size the pattern stated. I really must get into better habits of checking my block in the beginning (measuring finished block) and then making necessary adjustments. Interesting that the thread we use may be one of the factors I hadn't given much thought to.
#12
One thing to try is when making a test block use a basting stitch so rips out easily if it requires adjustments. This also works on piecing blocks together when trying to get intersecting seams to match. Sew with a basting seam and check it if all is okay, clip the baste in several spots but still holds the blocks together, sew with a regular stitch and pull out the basting. This really helps with multiple seams.
The modern alternative is to use Elmers Ultra Washable school glue.
The modern alternative is to use Elmers Ultra Washable school glue.
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
One thing to try is when making a test block use a basting stitch so rips out easily if it requires adjustments. This also works on piecing blocks together when trying to get intersecting seams to match. Sew with a basting seam and check it if all is okay, clip the baste in several spots but still holds the blocks together, sew with a regular stitch and pull out the basting. This really helps with multiple seams.
The modern alternative is to use Elmers Ultra Washable school glue.
The modern alternative is to use Elmers Ultra Washable school glue.
I now have a question for you-all:
When making a test block - should one use the "good/intended" fabrics for it? I have noticed major differences in the "heft" of even different "quilting type" fabrics.
An extreme example would be heavy weight denim as compared to organza or plush upholstery fabric as compared to sheer curtains.
I think it would be better to use the components that one is planning to use in the final item for the "test before cutting out everything" step.
I think using "throw-away" scraps might be okay for the first test run.
Another suggestion: If you need/want to put a project away for awhile - leave notes for yourself - which rulers were you using - which machine and which settings you were using -
The reason I am mentioning this - I did not do that - and I wish I had.
Most of my suggestions come from having NOT done some of these things - and I made more work for myself or things did not turn out as intended.
#14
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,406
I recently ran into a new one. I was using a 4.5" square and always coming out shy on my 12.5" blocks, about three weeks later I found another 4.5" square in my rulers by another company and discovered that it was larger. If all else fails you may want to check your rulers for accuracy. I would have never thought about this had I not seen it with my own eyes.
Not all templates are accurate, either.
#16
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
I find that some of my blocks come out better when I finger press the individual components and don't press with an iron until the block is finished.
Another important point for me is that a little bit over and a little bit undersized can easily be matched in the next seam. However, I have gotten blocks in swaps that were from 12 to 13" when the goal size was 12 1/2. Those outliers won't make the cut.
Another important point for me is that a little bit over and a little bit undersized can easily be matched in the next seam. However, I have gotten blocks in swaps that were from 12 to 13" when the goal size was 12 1/2. Those outliers won't make the cut.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 6,407
I have to say that #7 on Bearisgray's list--make a test block--is one I always want to ignore, to my regret! All too often I get things cut and then want to just start string piecing and THEN figure I have problems! Hopefully I'll get more patient and precise. Thanks for this thread.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 851
I recently ran into a new one. I was using a 4.5" square and always coming out shy on my 12.5" blocks, about three weeks later I found another 4.5" square in my rulers by another company and discovered that it was larger. If all else fails you may want to check your rulers for accuracy. I would have never thought about this had I not seen it with my own eyes.
#20
I find that my cutting should come from one method. Such as: if I use the accuquilt, I should use it for all the pieces in the quilt. I should not mix some accuquilt cut pieces and some long ruler cut by hand. Then I bought an Altos2 which looks like a glorified paper cutter. You use your own rotary cutter, but this device ($250.00) lines everything up and holds it in place. The DVD makes it look so slick, but I am having a little trouble with accuracy on it.
And that is just the cutting. Then there is the sewing and the dreaded pressing. It's a wonder I can get anything to come out at all.
Marcia
And that is just the cutting. Then there is the sewing and the dreaded pressing. It's a wonder I can get anything to come out at all.
Marcia
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