Evedib

I am new to all this -been "lurking" - (btw, thanks for ALL the great info from all you-all!) I am considering using the Pellon "Jas Val-U-Fuse" fusable interfacing (very light weight) that comes on a board wrapped in plastic from JoAnns to use as my base for a string block. I used it to make the Sunbonnet Sue applique blocks and for the round center in a dresden plate block. Any problems with using that? I picture using it fusible side up so when I press it it will fuse to the strips, further stabilizing the pieces. I will be interested in your responses. Thanks, Evedib

tiptrinket

I think it is just easier to sew on a base and helps to keep the stretching to a minumum.

1screech

I don't use a base and have not had any issues. I do starch before I cut the block.

MacThayer

I made the same blocks. The first one, with the foundation under the entire block, turned out thick, but perfect. All I had to do was press the seams open instead of to the side to make it flat. The second block, where I cut out the fabric underneath much of the block, was a problem in terms of stretching out of shape, It was a horror to sew the final 4 pieces together, because the edges didn't match due to stretching of the bias, and I finally chucked it and made another block without cutting out the foundation underneath. That one was also perfect.

I think I would go for a foundation lighter than most quilting fabrics. For example, a very low thread count fabric, starched. Or muslin, starched, not the 200 thread count. I'm a nut about starch. You might get away with less.

Teddybear Lady

When I was a kid, my mom and I would sew fabric strips from old clothing onto squares cut from old catalogs for my grandma. I still have a quilt on my bed she made this way.

susiequilt

Thanks again all for responding.
The dryer sheets are too small for what I have in mind so will have to think again.
If I sew two together edge to edge maybe with a zig zag instead of a seam that might work.
Lots of starch also!
Maybe some pellon thin lining or fusable.
Lots of ideas here.

Greenheron

When cutting a clothing pattern, there are quite often narrow 'strings' of fabric left from the edges. Strings might also be left from cutting down or restyling garments, which was common in times past. As recently as the 1960s, my mother shortened our skirts and dresses and had material left over. Sewing factories cut clothing components from deeply stacked layers of fabric. Cutaways were sold cheaply to quilters though I haven't seen documentation of string cutaways.

I may be mistaken, but originally string quilts were made of very narrow lengths saved from projects and it was necessary to work on a base, most often fabric. Some were utility quilts and some were made with fancy fabric--taffeta, brocade, etc. After the top was completed it was lined and tacked in the same manner as crazy quilts, with no extra filling. Selvedge projects are contemporary string piecing.

Strip quilts are made of fabric cut on the straight grain for the projects, joined in lengths and cut to produce the pieced block or block components. Backing is not used.

mariolkapolka

I used dryer sheets and they work great to stabilize blocks, since they are very light they do not add a lot of bulk to quilt, so I just leave them be. I also made a string rag quilt where I sew strips of fabric on precut flannel squares backed it with fabric and finished whole quilt as rag quilt. It worked great. In this case flannel served as a batting, sort of quilt as you go method.

janceejan

I used the cheapest thinest non fuseable interfacing i could buy from Hancocks on the senior day and a 15% off coupon. It worked wonderfully, very thin, did stabilize everything and did not have to remove it. It did not add any weight to the quilt.

Willa D

I am using wedding aisle runner from Hobby Lobby. 36 inches wide and 100 feet long. All wedding things were 50% off. And you can cut it for any size block that yoou want. I got this hint from another quillter. I don't think my daughter and I will use this for a long time.