t-shirt fabric backing
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: in the begining, Md, now Az.
Posts: 569
#14
I have made two tshirt quilts and used Pellon 911FF (seems to be the lightest I can find around here) on the backs of the tshirts. I cut the fronts and backs apart equally leaving each as large as possible. I then cut the Pellon larger then the blocks I want (but not quite as wide a the tshirt). Smooth the tshirt face down on the ironing surface and center the Pellon on top (fusible side down!! lol). Then I dampen a larger plain tshirt backing wringing out as much as possible and lay it on top to fully cover the Pellon. Press with a dry iron on cotton setting 10 seconds in each spot starting at one corner and overlapping. By making them oversize, you can then center the design better when you cut with the design up and it also protects your ironing surface from the fusible. Both turned out great and the recipients loved them.
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: in the begining, Md, now Az.
Posts: 569
[QUOTE=laurlync;5534498]I have made two tshirt quilts and used Pellon 911FF (seems to be the lightest I can find around here) on the backs of the tshirts. I cut the fronts and backs apart equally leaving each as large as possible. I then cut the Pellon larger then the blocks I want (but not quite as wide a the tshirt). Smooth the tshirt face down on the ironing surface and center the Pellon on top (fusible side down!! lol). Then I dampen a larger plain tshirt backing wringing out as much as possible and lay it on top to fully cover the Pellon. Press with a dry iron on cotton setting 10 seconds in each spot starting at one corner and overlapping. By making them oversize, you can then center the design better when you cut with the design up and it also protects your ironing surface from the fusible. Both turned out great and the recipients loved them.[/QUOTE so if the instructions on the interfacing says to use steam, you would use a damp cloth instead, and i wondered how i would get to the front to cut out the part i need, and you just cut the side seam open,!! i'm getting good ideas from you all, thank-you.
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 146
I asked the quilt instructor the same question at our JoAnns---------and she said she always uses the 99 cents one!
#19
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 416
I am one of the few on this board that do not use fusible interfacing at all when making T-shirt quilts. I only use fusible interfacing when the T-shirt fabric itself is very thin or when the shirt is mesh (athletic jerseys). I create T-shirts quilts where the blocks are different sizes depending on the design on the T-shirt itself. The blocks are all in increments of 4 inches (plus seam allowance) - from 4 in. x 4 in. up to 16 in. x 16 in. Some blocks are rectangles - ie. 4 x 8, 12 x 8, etc. Since I know they are all in these increments I know that they should fit together (a 4 in. square block sewed to an 8 in square block will sew to a 12 in square block. Therefore if there is any stretch (usually minor), I know to just ease it in.
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