Threading different machines
01-19-2017, 10:56 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Knot Merrill, Southern Indiana
Posts: 5,781
Originally Posted by Sewnoma
I've never seen a machine where the thread would go into the needle from the back to the front, so if the needle is set with the eye facing forward, I think you're safe threading the needle from front to back.
For needles set with the eye facing to the side, the thread will most often go into the needle in the direction opposite of where the last thread guide put it. So if in threading through the final thread guide you swing the thread from right to left, you're probably going to thread the needle from left to right.
Those are the two "rules of thumb" I always use for threading an unfamiliar machine.
As others have said, you'll know pretty quickly if it was wrong, and then you can either just try it the other way, or look it up.
For needles set with the eye facing to the side, the thread will most often go into the needle in the direction opposite of where the last thread guide put it. So if in threading through the final thread guide you swing the thread from right to left, you're probably going to thread the needle from left to right.
Those are the two "rules of thumb" I always use for threading an unfamiliar machine.
As others have said, you'll know pretty quickly if it was wrong, and then you can either just try it the other way, or look it up.
01-19-2017, 02:58 PM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 3,252
Oh my goodness for sure! Hope for manuals, as they said. The problem for me is the thread path from the spindle through the machine, not so much through the needle. I have two Pfaffs and they are the exact opposite as the thread goes from the pre-tension through the thread "uptake levers". When I change from one machine to the other, which doesn't happen very often, I have to look at the manuals to get it right. Or maybe that's just me. How good of you to do a class like this!
. How good of you to do a class like this!
01-20-2017, 04:42 AM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 225
Assuming there is no manual, get the name and model of the machines and Google in advance "how to thread a ...."
You should be able to make a print out for each machine. If you don't know in advance, and there is no manual, Google on the spot.
You should be able to make a print out for each machine. If you don't know in advance, and there is no manual, Google on the spot.
01-20-2017, 06:32 AM
#18
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 15,899
Originally Posted by Karamarie
My white featherweight threads from right to left.
01-20-2017, 07:33 AM
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hernando FL
Posts: 1,662
Good comments on the flat side of the needle and such. Thread always comes out the flat side of the needle is another way to look at it. Some machines thread front to back and others side to side. Often if you put a mirror under the needle holder you can see the direction of the flat side.
I'd be more concerned about how the thread gets from the spool to the needle. Many machines will have little icons with numbers or arrows on them to give you a clue. I'm pretty good at figuring out how thread various machines but my mother-in-law had one that was a real mystery and not intuitive.
Winding bobbins is another thing where machines differ on how to run the thread from the spool to the bobbin holder.
How the thread is wound on the spool can also affect things. It used to be all thread was "stacked" or wound round and round. Coats and Clark is still done this way. Those spools used to have a little notch in the edge to catch the thread when you were done with it. Thread wound this way is put on a vertical thread holder. Thread now also come wound in a criss cross fashion and you can see it clearly when you look at the thread. Gutermann, Mettler and others are wound this way. They are meant to come off the spool from the end so need to be laying down on a horizontal spool holder. Many of the older machines only have a vertical spool holder. You can always put this kind of thread in a cup that sits on the table behind the machine so the thread comes off the top of the spool if you don't have a horizontal spool holder. Thread doesn't absolutely have to be in the proper position to work but generally they do work a little better that way.
I'd be more concerned about how the thread gets from the spool to the needle. Many machines will have little icons with numbers or arrows on them to give you a clue. I'm pretty good at figuring out how thread various machines but my mother-in-law had one that was a real mystery and not intuitive.
Winding bobbins is another thing where machines differ on how to run the thread from the spool to the bobbin holder.
How the thread is wound on the spool can also affect things. It used to be all thread was "stacked" or wound round and round. Coats and Clark is still done this way. Those spools used to have a little notch in the edge to catch the thread when you were done with it. Thread wound this way is put on a vertical thread holder. Thread now also come wound in a criss cross fashion and you can see it clearly when you look at the thread. Gutermann, Mettler and others are wound this way. They are meant to come off the spool from the end so need to be laying down on a horizontal spool holder. Many of the older machines only have a vertical spool holder. You can always put this kind of thread in a cup that sits on the table behind the machine so the thread comes off the top of the spool if you don't have a horizontal spool holder. Thread doesn't absolutely have to be in the proper position to work but generally they do work a little better that way.
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