Thrift store find
#26
Dogwood: Would be happy to provide a description. My description will be for my frame since I don't know what yours looks like. Please ask any questions that come up.
1) Pin or baste the back, wrong side up, to both leader cloths on the outside bars. Mine are sturdy canvas. The pins worked just fine.
2) Then roll the back onto the non-tension side of the bar so that you see a single layer of the back closest to the tension bar. This is very important. If you don't get this taunt before you apply the batt you will have wrinkles. Ask me how I know.
3) Apply Elmers glue to the part of the back that is a single layer. I just used a squiggly line.
4) Apply the batt to the glue keeping the excess batt towards the tension bar. Unroll just enough back so a portion of the glued batt will still show. Tighten the tension bar. Look underneath to make sure the back is still taunt with no sagging. Repeat the gluing. Keep this up until you have glued the batt to the entire back.
5) Roll the entire batt and backing to the non tension bar. As your rolling it smooth the two and make the roll as tight as you possibly can.
6) Place glue on the top of the batting, as above for the back, than smooth the top right side up onto the batting. Again rolling it as tightly as you can as you go.
I left the quilt on the frame until the next day to make sure that the glue was dry. The glue adheres very quickly so the most important thing is to make sure the layers are taunt at every step. The top and the batt really just ride on top of the back so the key is to make sure the back stays tight.
I hope this helps. Please ask about anything that is not clear.
Dana: When the frame is up it does take up a lot of space but it is easy to take apart so I just store the legs behind a door and the sidebars along a wall.
1) Pin or baste the back, wrong side up, to both leader cloths on the outside bars. Mine are sturdy canvas. The pins worked just fine.
2) Then roll the back onto the non-tension side of the bar so that you see a single layer of the back closest to the tension bar. This is very important. If you don't get this taunt before you apply the batt you will have wrinkles. Ask me how I know.
3) Apply Elmers glue to the part of the back that is a single layer. I just used a squiggly line.
4) Apply the batt to the glue keeping the excess batt towards the tension bar. Unroll just enough back so a portion of the glued batt will still show. Tighten the tension bar. Look underneath to make sure the back is still taunt with no sagging. Repeat the gluing. Keep this up until you have glued the batt to the entire back.
5) Roll the entire batt and backing to the non tension bar. As your rolling it smooth the two and make the roll as tight as you possibly can.
6) Place glue on the top of the batting, as above for the back, than smooth the top right side up onto the batting. Again rolling it as tightly as you can as you go.
I left the quilt on the frame until the next day to make sure that the glue was dry. The glue adheres very quickly so the most important thing is to make sure the layers are taunt at every step. The top and the batt really just ride on top of the back so the key is to make sure the back stays tight.
I hope this helps. Please ask about anything that is not clear.
Dana: When the frame is up it does take up a lot of space but it is easy to take apart so I just store the legs behind a door and the sidebars along a wall.
#27
Congratulations on the great find!
I make mostly Queen size or larger quilts. Used the crafts table from JoAnn's for years and was happy with the results although the weight of moving the quilt around was tiring. Well I found a frame for $30 in a local Thrift store. Just sandwiched the latest quilt using the frame and Elmer's glue. Took me three hours instead of three days and the weight of the quilt is distributed onto the frame so it is much easier on me.
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