margecam52

I don't use a walking foot when binding (actually, rarely at all, find them cumbersome).
1. I don't press my binding in half. I do press the binding out flat (I use 2-1/2" wide strips cut on the straight of the grain...I only cut bias strips for scalloped edged quilts), pressing the 45 degree joins open.
2. I fold the starting end of the first piece of binding (before I've joined any strips together)..and match the cut ends...Put a pin in. I then pick my start point on the quilt (usually abt half way down one side. I pin the top (start) edge of the binding...using the pin I used when I folded it before. Then I pin, folding to keep the cut edges together, about 12" from that first pin (this is where I will start sewing on the binding. I sew onto the front of the quilt & fold to the back (but that's a matter of preferrence).
3. Sew to within 1/4" from the first corner (if you use a 1/2" seam allowance, sew to withing 1/2"...the rule is to stop the amount of your seam allowance from the corner). With the needle in the down position, raise the presser foot & pivot 45 degrees, put the foot down and sew off the exact corner of the quilt top. Cut the threads.
Now you are ready to fold the mitered corner, using the 45 degree stitching to the corner as your guide. You can't go wrong folding up to the stitchoff line. Once you have folded up on the sewn miter line, fold straight back down matching the cut edges of the binding to the cut edge of the top on the next side. Your goal is to have that top straight fold at a 90 degree angle, over the first fold. Now start your stitching at the very edge of the fold...to continue your stitching on of the binding down the next side.
Repeat for each corner.
Join the two ends as Leah Day showed in her video.

Leah Day looks to not pressing her binding in half either. Pressng the binding in half will make it hard to get a good binding turn when you go to turn the binding to the back. I always stitch down my bindings from the back. I use a color in the bobbin that matches the front background color...or if it's a busy quilt, I use .004 poly invisible thread in the bobbin. Usually though, a 60 wt bobbin thread (like bottom line thread) in as close a color as I can get works fine.
When I turn the binding to the back to start stitching...I can feel the edge of the binding on the front, and see the stitches on the back where I sewed down the binding on the front. I get my binding just a thread or so over that stitching and stitch down the back binding. You can hand stitch (I do when customer requests it, but also charge more for it).
If I were to press the bindng in half, I'd be struggling with that pressed in fold line...and my binding would not lay flat.

purplefiend

Kaye Wood has a great video on Youtube that shows a wonderful way to sew binding by machine. I think Eleanor Burns has some too.
I have a Pfaff with the built in walking foot(IDT) and that is a big help to me, my binding always comes out looking nice when its all done.
I cut my binding strips from the straight grain rather than on the bias, I cut my strips 2 1/4"-2/12" wide . I sew the binding to the back first and then turn it over the front, then stitch it down with a straight stitch or a decorative stitch.

FroggyinTexas

I have never been successful with a machine binding, not even on a pot holder. I gave up years ago and decided to consider the opportunity to practice hand stitching was a blessing. froggyintexas

Silver Needle

I wasn't happy with my machine binding until I used the Wonder Clips. I attach the binding to the back then top stitch on the front. By using the Wonder Clips I am able to make the stitch line on the front line up on the binding on the back.

captlynhall

I hand quilt, so hand binding is the only way for me. I love the look of it and I find this final step gives me some 'quite' time with my creation before it is done. I enjoy the process as I can sit in the family room with my husband while he watches TV and sew. All my other sewing is off by myself in the sewing room.

Sometime in the far future I will probably try my hand at machine quilting, but only for something very small, like a wall hanging. When I do that, I will likely do a machine binding.

norahs

I do all my bindings for charity quilts by machine. I always baste the corners so I don't have to hold everything down and deal with the pins while going around the corners.

bigbrownowl

I don't usually use binding (just fold over the backing to make an edge), but when I do I machine long side up to the corners, then do the corners by hand. Then turn over to the other side, and finish by hand. It cuts down the amount of hand sewing (as I now struggle a bit with this), but I am happier with the turned edge.

jcrow

I also love doing the flange binding. It saved me! Except there is extra steps to doing it. You have to make a second binding and sew it to the first, but I don't mind at all because it looks so good in the end.

QuiltnLady1

The last couple of years, I have had to do all machine binding for this reason as well. I use glue and clips. I have used a narrow serpentine, wide serpentine, wobble stitch (narrow, medium length zig zag) and several of the more open decorative stitches -- I used the walking foot for this. The result is not as pretty as hand stitching, but I like the look. I sew on the back and then the front -- sometimes I have it so the top overlaps the back stitching by more than 1/4" so on the back it looks like just an extra row of quilting.