irishrose

What fun! Do I do my mat for the current color of the smaller bath or the color I will be painting it? The new one, I think. I will post my fabric later.

Sapphire_Rae

Here are my fabrics. Not sure which three will end up in the final three.

SouthPStitches

I'd like to try too. Thanks for doing this

mom-6

Would love to join you but will be at Sherwood Forest Faire all weekend. So guess I'll just have to do mine later. Sounds like so much fun!

Emma S

Lynda Rae: Whichever way you go your mat is going to be great. I know you didn't ask, but I think I would go with the white and orange for sure.

Sapphire_Rae

Thanks, Emma! I have the least of the orange, but do want to use it. I will study the pattern more; I might just be able to put all four in!

Emma S

What a great idea. Seems to me that as long as you used the same color for the backgound (green in the sample) you could either go random (completely scrappy) or just select certain blocks from the pattern for the other two colors. Can hardly wait to see what you choose.

CarolynMT

Ok, may need to post on several here, to get all 6 pages with photos on here. Again if anyone wants the pattern via email, please PM me your email address and I will send it on.

Quilted Bath/Throw Rug
Supplies:
¼ yd of Fabric A (generous cut, need10ins by width of fabric)
¼ yd of Fabric B (generous cut, need10ins by width of fabric)
½ yd of Fabric C (generous cut, need20ins by width of fabric)
Bath sized towel
Thread for Quilting
Thread for Piecing
Optional:
Anti-skid backing, may buy anti skidfabric, puff paint, or jar of anti skid
Links to sites selling such items atbottom of instructions.
Notions Needed:
Sewing machine capable of straightstitch
¼ in foot with guide (optional, butgreat for consistent seams)
Edge-joining foot (optional, but greatfor sewn on binding)
Basic sewing notions (scissors, rotarycutter, pins, cutting mat, etc.)


DO NOT let any of these instructionslimit your creativity!
Do what feels right for you, the endresult will still be stunning!


Instructions:

• Cut the following (I cut into 2.5instrips first then cut the lengths from there)
  • Fabric A – (print)
    • 6 => 2½ in x 2½ in squares
    • 24 => 2 in x 2½ in rectangles
    • 24 => 4 in x 2½ in rectangles
  • Fabric B – (print)

1. 6 => 2½ in x 2½ in squares
2. 24 => 2 in x 2½ in rectangles
3. 24 => 4 in x 2½ in rectangles

1. Fabric C – (solid)

1. 36 => 1½ in x 2½ in rectangles
2. 12 => 4½ in x 1½ in rectangles
3. 3 => 2 ½ in x width of fabricstrips, for binding

1. Sew the 1½ in x 2½ in rectangles ofFabric C to the square of Fabrics A + B,
2. Sew the 4½ in x 1½ in rectangles ofFabric C to the resulting rectangle,
3. You should now have 12 center squares,of approximately 4½ – 4¼ in blocks. Six of each print fabric. Setthese aside for the time being while we piece the outer ring.
4. Sew the 1½ in x 2½ in rectangles ofFabric C to the 2 in x 2½ in rectangles.
   • 12 of Fabric A and
   • 12 of Fabric B
5. Sew the 1½ in x 2½ in rectangles ofFabric C to the 4 in x 2½ in rectangles
   • 12 of Fabric A and
   • 12 of Fabric B

****Pay special attention here:
Press Fabric A/C block towards FabricC,
Press Fabric B/C block towards FabricB,
****This will allow for “nesting”the seams when piecing the blocks together,

• Sew resulting rectangles to theremaining 2 in x 2½ in rectangles.
• Sew resulting rectangles to theremaining 4 in x 2½ in rectangles
• Now, you can lay out the blocks and seehow nice it is looking.
• Now you want to start putting thesepieces together.
• Begin with the short sides, press inwhat ever direction makes you happy, these seams do not matter thatmuch
• Now add the longer strips, and youshould end up with 6 blocks of one pattern and 6 blocks of the other.
• Now lay out the blocks in alternatingrows, so that you have 3 rows of 4 blocks.
• Begin sewing the blocks together inrows, any way that works for you is fine. Just make sure you line upthe solid pieces (where you hopefully ironed so that they nest well)

****Hint here: If you turn ½ theblocks (say the ones surrounded by fabric A, so that the short sidesare on the side, and the fabric B blocks are long pieces on the side,it will make stitching the seams easier on you.

• Now sew the rows together to form thetop, be sure to line up the solid pieces as best you can.
• Great, what a beautiful top so far! Time to get the backing on. Get 1 bath towel and lay down flat, layfinished quilt top on towel. Baste in your preferred method. DO NOTtrim the towel until ready to bind, unless you like having all thoseterry cloth “bits” floating around.

HINT: I used pins to baste the towelbut it was too 'loose', I would recommend using a spray basting forkeeping the pieces together.

• Now we quilt! Please select the methodthat works best for you. I was going to strongly encourage people todrop their feed dogs and just enjoy the process, tis a bath mat afterall. However, after attempting this myself, I found it is NOT as easyas it appears. The towel does not slide very well under the needle,not sure if it was the towel or the lack of adequate basting. So inthis instance, I recommend doing what feels comfy for you, be itstitch in the ditch, FMQ, or decorative stitches. Also will note, Itend to FMQ at full throttle and this didnt allow me to do that, itmight be easier to FMQ if you move at a little slower pace that “wideopen”.
• Square up/Trim rug now cutting off theexcess towel.
• Now it is time to bind! Almostfinished here! Now with me, I hate hand work with a passion, so amalways looking for a method to do all machine sewn binding. Here ismy method, but please feel free to use whatever method works best foryou.
  • I first sew all 2½ strips to eachother to make one very long binding strip.
  • I iron strip in half (longways)
  • I sew the strip on the back of the rug,using the ¼ in foot with a guide
  • I iron the back side of the binding, ithelps with folding over.
  • I change my presser foot to theedge-joining foot, setting the guide of the foot along the “Inside”of the binding

Optional Steps:

• If you are using the non-skid fabric,you will want to attach it AFTER quilting but BEFORE binding thequilt, just lay it on back and bind.
• If you are using the puff-paint method,apply after you have finished. There are loads of tips on how to dothis via the internet, just do a google search.
• If you are using the non-skid tubapplication, be aware that it has been known to discolor vinylfloorings.
• You may get a bit more of the solidfabric and add a 1in sashing around all blocks (just cut it 1½inches wide to account for seams) This actually looks interesting,but will make the finished product a little bigger. Here is a photoof what it 'could' look like, I laid down the strips (not sewn) forvisual reference.
• Remember this is supposed to be fun!Don't let instructions stop your creativity from leading you.

Links:
http://http://quiltexpressions.wordp...-on-the-floor/
http://sewing.about.com/od/fabricsin...tom-fabric.htm
http://www.createforless.com/Dritz+A...FQjf4Aod93MALA
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24206
Great info on puff-paint http://www.ehow.com/info_8391246_puffy-paint.html

CarolynMT

Ok, I have tried loading photos, looks like a mess of sorting my folders in photobucket....and just cant get it sorted tonight, if you ladies dont mind I will address it tomorrow the instructions are up, and most who have emailed me have received their pdf copy. If you have not received your copy, please PM and let me know and i will get it to you tomorrow. Cant wait to play

Dedemac

I need a Retreat! Doing a mat for my Grand Puppy. Hope it will not be to difficult to use a heaver fabric. I have a fair amount of flannel's that I need to use up. Here are my colors.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]396991[/ATTACH]