What is the best stabilizer for quilt top applique?
#1
What is the best stabilizer for quilt top applique?
I am about to start a quilt that has cut applique shapes that I will be machine stitching not hand stitching. I will not be turning the edges, but raw edge applique with a button hole style stitch. Since it has been so long since I have done this I though I should check and see what stabilizer does everyone recommend that is the lightest weight, fusible, and is there one that washes away? I have no idea and it is overwhelming what is on the market. A long time ago I used Steam a Seam 2. Is there something better now? I hate stabilizer that makes the quilt top stiff. Any suggestions?
Thanks so much.
Thanks so much.
#2
I've never heard of a fusible that washes out but staem a seam 2 LITE is what I use, you can hardly tell it's there
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#3
I also used Steam-a-Seam LITE ... it works just like the regular with the sticky back adhesive so you can reposition the applique if you need to. I didn't find it thick or stiff at all.
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
do you want a stablizer (a thin fabric that adds weight/body to a piece) or a fusable web which you fuse to the back of one fabric- then place & fuse down to hold while stitching? if that is what you mean- which i think is- there are a number of them on the market- there is wonder-under, steam a seam lite, heat & bond lite- and numerous (off brands) they are paper backed- so you can draw your shapes on the paper- fuse to the fabric- cut out- remove paper-then fuse down to the background-they all wash away unless you get the heavy/stiff- no sew varieties-
there are wash away stablizers that embroiderers use- they tend to be a bit different- they only fuse to one side- and they are much more expensive-
there are wash away stablizers that embroiderers use- they tend to be a bit different- they only fuse to one side- and they are much more expensive-
#5
#6
I use a light one from Joanns, but can't remember the name. There is a wash-a-way that you can get from machine embroidery, but I think it is pretty expensive.
Tip: I just tried this last time I appliqued. Draw the pattern on the fusible backing like always then cut out the center - leaving about 1/2" of border then iron this onto the fabric. It cuts down on the weight and then you can use that cut away part for more appliques. It did take more time in preparing them, but I liked the feel much better. Not so flat and stiff.
Tip: I just tried this last time I appliqued. Draw the pattern on the fusible backing like always then cut out the center - leaving about 1/2" of border then iron this onto the fabric. It cuts down on the weight and then you can use that cut away part for more appliques. It did take more time in preparing them, but I liked the feel much better. Not so flat and stiff.
#7
I use a light one from Joanns, but can't remember the name - it comes on a bolt. There is a wash-a-way that you can get for machine embroidery, but I think it is pretty expensive.
Tip: I just tried this last time I appliqued. Draw the pattern on the fusible backing like always then cut out the center - leaving about 1/2" of border then iron this onto the fabric. It cuts down on the weight and then you can use that cut away part for more appliques. It did take more time in preparing them, but I liked the feel much better. Not so flat and stiff.
Tip: I just tried this last time I appliqued. Draw the pattern on the fusible backing like always then cut out the center - leaving about 1/2" of border then iron this onto the fabric. It cuts down on the weight and then you can use that cut away part for more appliques. It did take more time in preparing them, but I liked the feel much better. Not so flat and stiff.
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
Posts: 1,873
I use heat & bond light. Am I doing something wrong. I attach my applique pieces like Treasureit says, leaving only a small amount on the edges to iron down. But then when I go to do my machine blanket stitching, I also iron a cut away stabilizer to the back. Do I have to do both or is the front heat L& bond enough?
Correction: I use tear away stabilizer on the back.
Correction: I use tear away stabilizer on the back.
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