What is wrong!
10-17-2013, 06:42 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,042
Originally Posted by Tfch8184
I'll be happy to never see another 7/8 measurement again lol
Do you have a name of the star block you are working on? Sometime if 'we' know the block, the questions and answers are clearer.
When I am working with 7/8 measurement, I will round it up (3 7/8 = 4), then when I have the HST sewn I trim the square HST to 3 1/2. BECAUSE I almost never can get the right 'scant' 1/4 seam when working with 7/8.
10-17-2013, 06:48 AM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Freeport, Pennsylvania
Posts: 148
Sounds like this might be made with a lot of triangles? The first thought that came to mind was the triangles not being cut to correct size - thus finishing out a smaller size than expected.
I feel your pain though. Been there a few times - sometimes because of the foot on my machine and sometimes just because I figured the measurements wrong in my head. I agree with stepping back for a while and coming back to it. It's easier to think of a solution when you're not full-blown frustrated.
I feel your pain though. Been there a few times - sometimes because of the foot on my machine and sometimes just because I figured the measurements wrong in my head. I agree with stepping back for a while and coming back to it. It's easier to think of a solution when you're not full-blown frustrated.
10-17-2013, 07:11 AM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 207
Ahhhhhhhh. Ok all together now. Happy dance happy dance happy dance!!!!!!!
I fixed it. My star block turned out right!!!!
And I told df if he ever touches my tape I will chop his fingers off and feed them bit by bit to the cats!!!!!
I fixed it. My star block turned out right!!!!
And I told df if he ever touches my tape I will chop his fingers off and feed them bit by bit to the cats!!!!!
10-18-2013, 03:31 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,571
Very nice block and well done to boot! I, too, round up to the full inch and then trim my hst's to size. So not worth the aggravation to me to be that stressed over sewing. It takes a bit more time with the pressing and trimming but it's worth not having to rip, at least for me. Also press all my seams open which I find makes things line up easier as well as laying flatter.
10-18-2013, 04:53 AM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,325
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
I had the same problem of blocks not being the right size when I first started sewing 1/4" seams.
After many classes with great instructors and knowing my fabric is cut to size I learned:
1. Use thin thread in top and bobbin
2. Press my seams open or tug and press the seam to one side. Keep iron in place longer for it to do it's job.
3. Twirl intersecting seams open
4. Use a longer stitch length 2.5 and backstitch at beginning and ending.
5. Keep index finger against the left side of the foot when coming to the end of the seam. This keeps the seam from veering right.
6. Sew slow, slow enough to count each stitch until you can tell by sight the seam is perfect.
7. Hard to match seams, glue baste them then sew.
One thing I learned that has held true and it's not known by most is if you are cutting strips of fabric you have to true up the edge after the amount of cuts the width of the strip. Example: if you are cutting five strips at 2 1/2 " you have to true up the edge after cutting 3 (rounded up) strips. Pieces cut 5 inches you have to true up the fabric edge after 5 cuts and so on. This is where a lot of frustration comes from, fabric being cut just a tad off even thought it looks fine.
One thing I forgot. I guess because it has become second nature to me now. I use a clapper to flatten all my seams after pressing.
After many classes with great instructors and knowing my fabric is cut to size I learned:
1. Use thin thread in top and bobbin
2. Press my seams open or tug and press the seam to one side. Keep iron in place longer for it to do it's job.
3. Twirl intersecting seams open
4. Use a longer stitch length 2.5 and backstitch at beginning and ending.
5. Keep index finger against the left side of the foot when coming to the end of the seam. This keeps the seam from veering right.
6. Sew slow, slow enough to count each stitch until you can tell by sight the seam is perfect.
7. Hard to match seams, glue baste them then sew.
One thing I learned that has held true and it's not known by most is if you are cutting strips of fabric you have to true up the edge after the amount of cuts the width of the strip. Example: if you are cutting five strips at 2 1/2 " you have to true up the edge after cutting 3 (rounded up) strips. Pieces cut 5 inches you have to true up the fabric edge after 5 cuts and so on. This is where a lot of frustration comes from, fabric being cut just a tad off even thought it looks fine.
One thing I forgot. I guess because it has become second nature to me now. I use a clapper to flatten all my seams after pressing.
10-18-2013, 05:01 AM
#19
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 15,368
Love your advice.
Originally Posted by PaperPrincess
Hi, have a lie down. Eat some chocolate. Breathe. If you read lots of posts on this site, 1/4" feet on most machines are not really 1/4". You have to move your needle (if possible) or do like you are doing with another fabric guide. Here's a good tutorial:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html
The 1/4" foot is approximate. I have one and have to change my needle position if I change thread size or go to flannel or homespun from just quilter's cotton.
Another alternative is if your quilt is made out of just the pinwheel blocks, then go with the 12.25' ones.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html
The 1/4" foot is approximate. I have one and have to change my needle position if I change thread size or go to flannel or homespun from just quilter's cotton.
Another alternative is if your quilt is made out of just the pinwheel blocks, then go with the 12.25' ones.
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