Yes, sometimes a stencil is too wide or not long enough, or you like part of one, and part of another, so you can change them and get the look you want. and if I get bored with quilting one pattern I might change it up some. it doesn't have to be the same all over . I will try to stick to the same theme with this one, in the shashings . I have used lots of different things around the house for patterns, A small saucer will make a pretty ropeing design, or you can use it to make a large shell design, We will see what this one tells me to do when I get the border done. :lol: :lol:
I am not sure how you put one in the frame for the longarm. With this one, getting the backing in, and getting it pinned to the front pole tight is the key. I run the pins across the pole so they will roll better, and I do make sure they are placed close together. Also using flat head pins is important, so they will roll smooth. Then I give it a roll onto the front pole before pinning the batting , also pinning it close, and the pins longways.Then giving it a half turn. Then the top .pinning it to the batting and the backing, The reason for doing it this way, is to make sure the backing is tight before pinning anything to it. Also, I have found that The Fons and Porter pins are stronger, they cost a little more, but worth it.
here is a picture of how close my pins are.after I have quilted in an area, I remove the pins, the pins holding the top to the front will be all gone before I roll it.

:shock: :shock: Well, you are breaking my heart here :lol: :lol: I mean we all know quilting is way more important than pool(although I have shot a mean game of pool in my day :roll: )
I don't know how big your house is, but I would find somewhere for it. In the dinningroom or living room, If you have the same frame, it can be turned up and set along a wall when not in use.But it does take up some room. I hope you can get it set up soon, and if you need any help, I will be glad to help you.or even a porch in the spring and summer would work, just throwing an blanket over it when not in use. Good luck, and please let me know what happens.

I am not sure what you want to know. The center pole has the backing and the batting rolled up on it. it unrolls as we go along.
the back pole has the top. In the picture of it empty, you can see the material on the back pole is longer, so the top can be rolled all the way to the front to finish it off. Can you post a picture of your frame empty? I would love to see it. I know someday I am going to want one, as I get older my eyes might not let me do as much hand quilting, not that you are old or anything bw :lol: :lol:
here is a picture of underneath so you can see how it looks.I have crawled underneath to get this picture for you. If that ain't love, don't know what is :lol: :lol:

Wow Ninnie!!!! Speechless in wonderment... wow, wow,wow! That's Amish standard quilting IMHO! :-D

okay: on mine, the one furthest away is the 'takeup' pole (or rail). the backing gets pinned to a leader on that. the backing then gets pinned to a leader on the second pole (sometimes called 'belly bar'). the batting gets pinned to the top of the backing, near the takeup pole. then all the way down on the fourth pole, which is near the floor. the top gets pinned over the batting, which is on the takeup pole. the other end gets pinned to the leader on the third pole.

i don't do that. that's just what the instructions say. i put the backing, battnig and top the way the say. i 'float' the batting, meaning i don't roll it at the bottom. it hangs there so i can adjust as i go. i have been rolling the top, but i'm going to 'float' that as well next time, like jackie does, again for the sake of adjusting.

so, the backing and the batting and the top will all be attached more or less like yours. except for the backing, the other ends will not be attached at all, except for side clamps that keep everything even across, and semi-tight. with machine quilting, you don't want your fabric too tight. if i find i don't like the top hanging loose, it will be a struggle to get it onto the leader. i'll have to test.

i have four poles, of which i hope to have to use only two. the batting is a pain to roll, so i never used that. and we'll see about the top. i'll try to post pictures.
if i do, i'll give you a heads-up.

here is the corner, quilted. I am 2/3 way finished with the fisrt border :-D :-D

So, bw, if you have 4 poles, why do you only use 2? And I understand not wanting it too tight, it is the same way with hand quilting,I don't have clamps on the sides, but I do sometimes take a piece of muslin, and put it around the side, and pin the side of the bottom to it, to get it just right for hand quilting. So, you stand, and move the machine around , and the frame stays still? And do you do all of yours FM. I have seen where there are some , I think they are laser, that you trace the pattern, and it quilts it onto the quilt?
From what I have read about the FM, it takes a lot of practice and talent to do it. Do you draw your patterns onto your top, and trace them by hand? I know , I have a lot of questions, but I want to know as much as I can before going and loking at them.

it's just easier to use two and by using only two you more adjustment control of the backing and batting to prevent shifting. remember, the needle is causing vibrations along the entire quilt, so even a tiny shift now and then brings the whole thing out of whack. does shifting happen on a hand frame?

some people only ever sit on a rolling chair like yours and i have one that i sometimes use, but i mostly stand because i'm short and i want to see the whole thing as i go, and because i have trouble reaching the end furthest away from me if i sit. sometimes i fm and sometimes i chalk first. there is a shelf at the far side of the frame and pantos lay on the shelf. if you turn on the machine and follow the panto drawing with the laser light, the needle of the machine will go where it's led. there are also wood pantos. they are planks with grooves cut into them in a quilting design and you follow the design with a stylus that moves inside those grooves. again, the needle goes where it's led at the other end of the machine. i've never used either of those methods.

also, i see that you quilt from the outside edge inward. i quilt from top to the bottom as i roll. sometimes from the middle of a row outward. i don't want to get puckers in the center.

I start in the middle of the border, quilt all the way to the left, then go back to the middle, and quilt all the way to the right, for the same reasons, I do not want puckers. Getting the border done is a big first step. and soon as I can roll, I always feel better, knowing that troublesome border is done and straight. Once I have quilted as far as I can reach, I will roll it towards me.
So, you have the ability to use the laser , but you choose to do it all FM? And don't the machines that can do the laser cost a whole lot more? which is why I really need to learn FM!!
/so, as you quilt, from top to bottom, the part that is finished also rollsup out of the way? There are a lot of things that are a lot alike, but a lot that are completely different.
It is possible for mine do do some shifting also. Maybe it isn't in as straight as i thought, or something has been laid on top that gives it a swagger, or I haven't adjusted it evenly the ti me before. I can unroll, all the way back to the beginning, and re adjust if I have to. I have had to do this before :lol: :lol:

Ninnie,
I forgot to say that I love your quilt and quilting, it is very stunning.
Kim

PS I'll keep you up to date on the frame. I have had it in the living room, my oldest sons room, the spare bedroom ( which is now my youngest son's room, I have had it every where in my house .

Oh my Ninnie,i so love this quilt u have chose and the stenicls it's just beautiful all i can say is Wow after i pick my jaw up from the floor(:)