wanda lou

Not a big fan of invisable thread either, I will often use a nice shade of gray.

tristansnana

I had been told that the thread would have a chance to relax if I used the cone holder. I guess that I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the help.

Scissor Queen

I have used miles and miles of invisible thread. Pretty much the last thing you want it to do is relax. When it relaxes is when it starts to curl up. It needs to come off the side of the spool with just enough tension that it keeps it straight.

ckcowl

try a poly invisible thread- it will make a huge difference- the nylon- stretches, snaps, melts, becomes brittle and breaks with age- is really not a good choice for quilting= becomes very (poky) when it breaks
polyester stays soft- does not melt-stretch or become brittle.

visit Superior Threads web site they have lots of free reference materials on threads of all kinds- what needles to use and what each thread is good for...they have free charts you can print off to keep handy for threads and needles.

BKrenning

The brand of invisible thread really does make a difference and I also would choose poly over nylon. Some types are wound differently and need to be mounted horizontally (embroidery thread spools) and some of the invisibles. If you don't have a horizontal mount, you can try putting it behind your machine in a coffee mug or mason jar to control the lashing if it is a problem. Getting the tension set right just takes patience and some machines just won't play well with the "slick" invisibles.

Carron

The Guterman brand I find is really good. I use the invisible thread a lot. Be sure to use the same thread in the top and in the bobbin. Mixing them that is to say, regular thread in one area and invisible in the other does cause for some problems in the sew out.

frarose

I too have problems when i try to use invisible thread.

meemersmom

One thing that has helped me when I do need to use nylon invisible threads is an old nylon knee-high stocking. Really. I cut a tube about 2 inches wide from one that had a small run in it (I used the part without the run). I then stretch that piece out a bit, much like a rubber band, and put it on the spool, also like putting a rubber band on something (slip it over it, pull it out a bit, cross the sides, then slip it over it again --- hope this makes sense). This provides just enough extra tension that the spool can then be used on either a vertical or horizontal spool pin without the problem of tightening and breakage or relaxing and coiling up under the spool or the bottom of the fabric. Some machines also now come with a little white netting tube that does essentially the same thing.

katesnanna

Sounds like you need to try a few different brands of invisible threads. Some machines prefer one over another. I mainly have used Signiture.

azwendyg

I've been using invisible thread from Superior and just LOVE it! It's a poly thread and comes in clear and in a smoky color. I often use it to machine topstitch my binding on (folded over to the front and topstitched). I always use it in both the top and the bobbin and really haven't experienced any problems with it other than being difficult to actually SEE it when I'm threading the machine and needle. I think the brand/quality of invisible thread you choose does make a difference, and was very reluctant to try it at first. I had some bad experiences with it many years ago (I'm sure it was nylon thread then), but tried it on the advice of a LQS instructor in a binding class. I've used the Superior invisible thread in my Juki, Bernina 630 and in my daughter's Janome 6600, all with great success. I always take the time to check and adjust the top and bottom tension if necessary when I start using it and have had no issues with it.