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Old 11-02-2011, 03:35 PM
  #31  
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I know what you mean. All these miles of seams and I can't get it right. If it weren't for fudging, I'd never get blocks sewn into tops... and even then, I'm chopping off points and missing seam intersections with every top I do manage to finish.

I'm grateful for the fact that rounded FMQ and a good laundering or two hide a multitude of errors.
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:54 PM
  #32  
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I started picing with a more expensive thinner thread (superior) and I am matching upquite well now
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:01 PM
  #33  
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Still use the "baggy bottom fix" tip found in a magazine - when sewing two slightly different size blocks together, just be sure the larger one is on bottom and the feed dogs will help ease in the extra fabric - works best when difference in size is 1/4 inch or less. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:09 PM
  #34  
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Sorry you are feeling down in the dumps....take a little break, make a fresh pot of coffee and you'll be right I still rely heavily on my little perspex 1/4 inch seam guide....simple but effective and keeps this renegade on the straight and narrow (well...mostly). Easing as you put together will help but as "polyparrot" mentioned - after quilting and laundering....only you will know the deep, dark secrets of the "not quiet perfect" matches.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:00 PM
  #35  
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I did a post a while back on how to achieve accurate 1/4" seams - maybe it will help somewhat: http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html

I know it's discouraging for things to not work out the way you'd hoped, but don't give up. Sometimes it just takes a little practice and then it all falls into place. Good luck!

Andi
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:43 PM
  #36  
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I, too, purchased not one, but two different types of 1/4" feet for my BabyLock and, even though I am very accurate (in that all seams come out the same) it is NEVER a 1/4". Can't use post-its as suggested by others or tape because the 1/4" mark falls right over my feed dogs. So, personally, I've come to this conclusion. As long as the seams are all the same it works out fine. Maybe the finished quilt is a little narrower/shorter than the intended expectations but I can always add another border to balance it out.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:36 PM
  #37  
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Try using moleskin. You can use a long strip and it's easy to remove when you don't want it. Good luck! There are also other attachments out there that you can buy to help with this.
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Old 11-03-2011, 12:15 AM
  #38  
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I have a 1/4 foot but still sometimes I find that when I square up my blocks I have to fudge a little here and there. You shouldn't have to rip if you square up....I measure all the blocks by laying them on my cutting mat then I take the smallest (maybe 1/8 short) and I square them up acording to that one. If I'm way off then I rip the one that is wayyy off then square up from there. I know not everyone squares up but I'm not "perfect" but I like my blocks to go together smoothly when I'm putting the top together. Saves me tons of ripping and time, hope that might help you!
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:12 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by EagarBeez View Post
I share the pain. I have not quilted long. Now I am working on a log cabin, my 1st. Doing it strips, square as I go. I noticed a couple blocks don't look exactly right, but, if I work with them. I am pretty sure they will work. I am being optimistic. Are yours that far off???? You could probably manuver them in a way to work for you. Don't give up the ship
I have decided that when it comes to log cabin I paper piece to keep things in order, otherwise my blocks are all wonky.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:40 AM
  #40  
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The scant 1/4 " is the secret to blocks going together neatly. Move your needle 2 clicks to the right. Makes a huge difference. On one of my machines I have a piece of masking tape which has been there for years and I use it as a guide. On my 6600 I use one of the marks on the plate. Try making a mark to use as a guide. You could also move your needle 2 clicks to the right.
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