Please Advise-want to buy Longarm
#1
Please Advise-want to buy Longarm
I have been researching longarm machines and have decided that I will purchase one within the next 3-6 months. My delima is this - should I start out with a 16" throat, and then later (maybe 2-5 years down the road) move up in size, or should I go ahead and buy an 18 or 20" and then just be done. I love quilting, have been quilting for years, and plan to quilt as long as possible (I am 51 years old) so I do think that I'd have several years to use one. I have quilted on my domestic machine and find that it hurts my back to pin baste, so that is one reason I'd like to get a long arm. Right now I have 7 quilt tops that are finished and ready for quilting.......Yikes! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,192
My first and main piece of advice is to do some test drives. Try multiple machines by different manufacturers, go to a large sewing expo if you can. Definitely buy a stitch regulator (don't think new ones even have an option to not get one anymore..), it's generally much cheaper at time of purchase. I would also very much recommend getting a computer driven machine if you can afford it. If you want to use pantographs make sure both your table and your machine is suitable.
My second big piece of advice is to make sure you have room for it. Most machines do not reduce down easily, you need roughly the space of a single car garage, while you can make do you really want the length (10" or 12" is best in my opinion) plus 3 feet on either side, and 3-4 feet behind it, as well as maybe 4-5 feet (minimum) in front.
Throat size I think 16-18" is fine, I usually only do about a foot at a time but it all depends on your style of quilting and what you want to do. I have short little arms and don't think I could do much bigger than what I do. You do want all the throat space you can get though if you use Minky, it bulks up fast.
Be aware that loading a quilt can be a lot more physical effort than you might think at first. You get better over time and practice but it is still demanding, much more than my friend who bought her long arm thought. I spend more time on it than she does -- but I try to do one of my tops and then one of hers. It's a bit of a drive for me to get there, about half an hour+ each way, and typically I load the top one day and then return the next to do the quilting. It is still easier on me than trying to force a queen sized quilt through my little old machine
My second big piece of advice is to make sure you have room for it. Most machines do not reduce down easily, you need roughly the space of a single car garage, while you can make do you really want the length (10" or 12" is best in my opinion) plus 3 feet on either side, and 3-4 feet behind it, as well as maybe 4-5 feet (minimum) in front.
Throat size I think 16-18" is fine, I usually only do about a foot at a time but it all depends on your style of quilting and what you want to do. I have short little arms and don't think I could do much bigger than what I do. You do want all the throat space you can get though if you use Minky, it bulks up fast.
Be aware that loading a quilt can be a lot more physical effort than you might think at first. You get better over time and practice but it is still demanding, much more than my friend who bought her long arm thought. I spend more time on it than she does -- but I try to do one of my tops and then one of hers. It's a bit of a drive for me to get there, about half an hour+ each way, and typically I load the top one day and then return the next to do the quilting. It is still easier on me than trying to force a queen sized quilt through my little old machine
#3
Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 19
I just bought one and the choices were 15 or 21. I went for the 21. I want this to be a long term purchase and not have to upgrade fully in a couple of years. It really speeds up the process! Even with the learning curve of going from domestic to longarm, I'm on my fourth quilt top in 2 weeks. Get what you can but if it means waiting another month to get the bigger one then I would wait and save up a little more.
#4
If you’re able to go test drive some at shows then by all means do so. I would get the biggest and best you can now so you don’t have to deal with it later. It is a lot of work to take down, move and level etc..., unless of course someone else does it for you. And yes, they take up room, I have a HQ Fusion on a 12ft gallery frame and it comfortably fits in a area 10.5w x 17L in my basement and I am able to work very comfortably.
As far a loading a quilt, once you find what works best for you it doesn’t are that long, I pin my backs to the leaders and I float my tops so it only takes me perhaps 30 minutes to load my backing.
Let us know what you decide to get, you’re going to love it!
As far a loading a quilt, once you find what works best for you it doesn’t are that long, I pin my backs to the leaders and I float my tops so it only takes me perhaps 30 minutes to load my backing.
Let us know what you decide to get, you’re going to love it!
#6
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
Go larger. A 16" usually only gives you about 12" of quilting space so you may be hard pressed to do a single average size block in one pass and you definitely won't be able to it if the 12" finished block is set on point. Like Lyric Girl I went with 24" right off the bat. Now I rarely use all that space but it sure is nice having it for when I do. I think a 21" throat would be ideal. Also get the biggest size rack you can fit. I could only fit a 10' rack in my space and there have been plenty of times I wished I had a longer rack.
Speaking of racks, give as much thought and consideration to your rack as you do the machine itself. A good solid rack, preferably with a deadbar can make all the difference in the world. My machine is an Innova and the rack is unlike any other LA rack on the market. It is infinitely customizable to your needs. It has a deadbar so no need to raise the takeup roller as you advance the quilt and it has a feature no other LA rack has, the ability to lift the top roller after the quilt is loaded to ensure you batting stays nice and smooth. And it is made out of aircraft grade aluminum so solid, solid, solid.
Speaking of racks, give as much thought and consideration to your rack as you do the machine itself. A good solid rack, preferably with a deadbar can make all the difference in the world. My machine is an Innova and the rack is unlike any other LA rack on the market. It is infinitely customizable to your needs. It has a deadbar so no need to raise the takeup roller as you advance the quilt and it has a feature no other LA rack has, the ability to lift the top roller after the quilt is loaded to ensure you batting stays nice and smooth. And it is made out of aircraft grade aluminum so solid, solid, solid.
#8
I'm in the school of thought that says to buy as big as you can afford now (and have room for). In boating, owners often go up by one or two feet in length - aka "foot-itis" - and I have seen people post here and on other forums that they bought a particular size and now wish they had gotten a larger throat, aka "inch-it is".
Whatever you do, enjoy!
Whatever you do, enjoy!
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 6,407
Do try out machines at a larger show so you get a chance to compare. While you may not really use all the throat space (mine is 28" and I rarely use more than about 15-16" near the front) get the largest you can--generally the longer the throat space the tall the machine is too and the height is important when rolling up a quilt. I purchased a 2006 Gammill Classic Plus 5 years ago--definitely you want stitch regulator and a solid frame/table where you can do pantographs if you want (usually from the back of the machine). If you think you are going to quilt for others for a business, then definitely consider a computer guided--if you plan to mainly quilt for yourself probably not as important and they really do hike up the price.
make sure it's a solid build from a solid company--these things cost about the same as a nice used car so you want one that has tech service back-up anytime by phone. Features I'd suggest: M bobbins (larger ones); laser light for panto's and motif tracing; ruler base; separate bobbin winder; easy maintenance for owner; adjustable top roller bar so you can check under the top before quilting(Gammill and Innova both have this). One thought--if you are in a guild put the word out that you are looking--sometimes due to health an owner will decide to sell and you can get a good machine and also immediate source for instruction and help.
make sure it's a solid build from a solid company--these things cost about the same as a nice used car so you want one that has tech service back-up anytime by phone. Features I'd suggest: M bobbins (larger ones); laser light for panto's and motif tracing; ruler base; separate bobbin winder; easy maintenance for owner; adjustable top roller bar so you can check under the top before quilting(Gammill and Innova both have this). One thought--if you are in a guild put the word out that you are looking--sometimes due to health an owner will decide to sell and you can get a good machine and also immediate source for instruction and help.
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