Juki TL 2010
03-20-2014, 09:21 AM
#11
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 60
I had the problem with the thread cutter on my Juki 2019Q, I called the Juki company was asked to take the bobbin holder out and look inside it if it had a blue flat spring in the bottom it was the wrong holder they sent me a new holder that didn't have the spring and the problem was solved.
03-23-2014, 09:11 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New England
Posts: 169
The 2010 comes w 3 different 1/4" feet: the straight stitch foot, the compensating foot, and the walking foot. I use them all, depending upon my task.
It is the best straight stitch machine I have used; the consistency of my seam allowances never fails to amaze me! I prefer it to my Berninas, and the Janome 7700 I used to own.
03-23-2014, 09:29 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 1,211
What needle are you using?
I bought a new Baby Lock, and the cutter worked perfectly. Then, I changed the needle (from a Schmetz that it came with to a Titanium Superior needle). It started unthreading itself every time I used the cutter. This is particularly annoying...
I looked at the titanium needle with a magnifying glass and to my surprise, the hole where the thread goes through is huge, by comparison to a Schmetz or Organ needle.
I switched back to a Schmetz, and you guessed it, the problem stopped. Give this a try.
I bought a new Baby Lock, and the cutter worked perfectly. Then, I changed the needle (from a Schmetz that it came with to a Titanium Superior needle). It started unthreading itself every time I used the cutter. This is particularly annoying...
I looked at the titanium needle with a magnifying glass and to my surprise, the hole where the thread goes through is huge, by comparison to a Schmetz or Organ needle.
I switched back to a Schmetz, and you guessed it, the problem stopped. Give this a try.
03-24-2014, 03:20 AM
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Thanks for the tips on getting the thread to quit coming out when I use the cutter. I talked to a person at Juki and his suggestion was to loosen that top tension. It worked for a while but I will try using only one hole to thread through and see if that fixes it.
I think I can help with the threader. Follow the manual, but be sure when you bring the thread into the metal near the needle that it is all the way into that metal piece. All the way. Then the little hook will be threaded and pull your thread through the needle. I tug my thread up, then over to the front and side before I let go of the threader tab.
There is a Utube video on using the threader if you search Utube.
With this thread cutter problem I have had lots of experience rethreading this machine. I owned a Juki TL98 before this and never had a problem with the cutter. Looks like Juki needs to do some fixes on this machine.
I think I can help with the threader. Follow the manual, but be sure when you bring the thread into the metal near the needle that it is all the way into that metal piece. All the way. Then the little hook will be threaded and pull your thread through the needle. I tug my thread up, then over to the front and side before I let go of the threader tab.
There is a Utube video on using the threader if you search Utube.
With this thread cutter problem I have had lots of experience rethreading this machine. I owned a Juki TL98 before this and never had a problem with the cutter. Looks like Juki needs to do some fixes on this machine.
03-24-2014, 03:46 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,921
For those who can't get the needle threader to thread. I finally figured it out. After you loop thread thru the needle bar thread hook (the little wire hooky thing), then you push down the threader button and loop the thread under the threader. There is a triangle slot to aim for. Here's the key, hold your thread end at about 4 o'clock to your machine and let the threader button go, it pulls the thread into the needle. I was constantly trying to thread while holding the end thread at about 6 o'clock, wouldn't work.
03-24-2014, 04:43 AM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,991
Thanks for the needle threading hints. I'm going to have another try. I'd ask my dealer but I can't even find a dealer in Ontario. I wish someone in this province would start handling Juki machines. I know if more quilters were able to try them, they would love them like I do.
03-25-2014, 04:18 AM
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,921
You're welcome Shelbie. It's a wierd little trick that somehow worked for me. I absolutely love mine too. The beauty of them is that you really don't need a dealer close by. They are pretty simple to set up. Enjoy.
03-29-2014, 06:54 AM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,988
Here are the two gadgets that I found and am using on my Juki TL2010i that really help me get the 1/4 inch seam allowance. The first is a 1/4" foot with a guide. It is on ebay for $12.95, ebay item number 271381455391, the title is "High Shank 1/4" Quilting Seam Foot with Guide for Janome 1600P Series 767820105". I emailed them first and asked if it would fit the new Juki and they said yes, and indeed it does and works great. If you google the model number 767820105 you will find several online shops that sell it too. I think the Juki 2010 and the Janome 1600 are similar machines. I wish Juki sold more accessories for home quilters, but I think most of their business is industrial uses.
In addition to that, I take the 'belt and suspenders' approach and ALSO use the Juki single needle T-guage #25878 that I bought directly from www.sharpsewing.com. It was about $18 if I recall. You screw it onto the bottom plate of your Juki, and then but the T-bar up against the guide bar on the presser foot, and together this gives you 3 to 4 inches of a 'wall' to run the edges of your fabric against to keep them straight and with a perfect 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Hope these help you like they did me---made all the difference!
In addition to that, I take the 'belt and suspenders' approach and ALSO use the Juki single needle T-guage #25878 that I bought directly from www.sharpsewing.com. It was about $18 if I recall. You screw it onto the bottom plate of your Juki, and then but the T-bar up against the guide bar on the presser foot, and together this gives you 3 to 4 inches of a 'wall' to run the edges of your fabric against to keep them straight and with a perfect 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Hope these help you like they did me---made all the difference!
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