teddysmom

I agree with piepatch. I always use a 1/4" seam when sewing on the binding. Never thought to use any other.

happyquiltmom

I don't trim my batting and backing until the binding is sewn on. I sew a 1/4" seam (using my 1/4" foot), no matter the width of binding, and then trim the batting and backing accordingly, usually 1/2" from the seam line for 2 1/2" binding. I like really stuffed bindings.

batikmystique

Ditto. It's always better to use a scrap sandwich to help figure out what is going to work the best for the batting being used. It also allows me to check my stitch length to make sure it is what I need with adding the two layers of double fold binding to the three layers of the sandwich - total of five layers (vs the stitch length for quilting when you have 3 layers). Your mitered corners will look perfectly fine as long as you follow the above suggestions for stopping your seam from the edge. Good luck to you!

bearisgray

The practice piece is always a good idea.

When I use a 2.5 inch batting with warm and natural batting - I use a smidge wider than 3/8 inch seam - but I prefer wider bindings.

It also depends on how much you want the binding to wrap around the back - do you want it to barely cover the first stitching? Do you want it to be wider on the back than on the front?

QuiltingCrazie

I would use a 2 1/4 with a 1/4 inch seam if machine sewing it on. From my last quilt experience, I was short on fabric so I did 2 1/4 when I usually do 2 1/2 and it meets evenly front and back. I'm hand tacking but if I were to machine sew it it would hit perfectly. I would test it....only takes a few stitches! Happy quilting!!

AnnieH

I'm binding a quilt today (DSD Christmas present) and only have 2" widths left for binding. Will use scant 1/4 inch and hand sew to back (fingers crossed).
Annie

Mary O

Well here's what has worked for me.I only use 21/4 bindings on small wall hangings and table runners and do the 21/2 bindings for the larger bed quilts.....I like the look of hand stitched bindings unless it's a kids floor quilt and then maybe I would machine it......

Daylesewblessed

I use 2.75" binding with a 3/8" seam allowance, adjusted slightly depending on thickness. Instead of doing a sample to test, I set the stitch length to a little longer and start my sewing of the binding a smidge inside 3/8" and sew for about 8-10". Then I reach back and test the turn of the binding, which is my opinion should be completely filled with quilt and turn to the point of the stitch line on the back. I set the stitch length to normal and make the adjustment in the seam allowance. Rarely do I have to remove the stitches because the seam is too wide, but if I do they are bigger and easy to remove. If the first stitching was too narrow, then when I get back around to that side, I just sew past the original start point for 8-10" until I overlap where the right width is.

mimiknoxtaylor

Ditto for me.

sewbelle52

I agree with mucky that your binding needs to be full. there are two ways that I think about this---the first is that I sew a 1/4" seam from the edge of the top piece sewing binding on, THEN trim all thicknesses to 3/8" before turning to the back to handstitch down. Or sometimes I get impatient/stupid and trim first to 3/8" them sew binding on at 3/8". The whole idea to me is to have your binding feel full with no feeling of only the 2 thicknesses of binding fabric hanging out there together---needs to be thick to the edge of binding.