Missus wants to buy a Serger/overlock
02-13-2014, 12:13 PM
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
I use the regular needles for sewing machines, that's what my 14u64A is labelled for. I got mine used from a friend and it does everything I need it to. I think you got a great deal on a very good machine. Remember that in the 80s the sergers were still "new" on the market, or relatively so. The quality hadn't really gone too far down by then.
I don't do a lot with my serger, but I do make tank tops and serge the edges of some fabrics prior to washing and assemble the odd item with it. It does live in my studio rather than the "sewing machine repair shop" upstairs, but I don't know if I've used it since I moved into my studio in November. I think I did in October. This is why I would never buy a new one, I just don't have a lot of need for it, but I love having it when I do need it.
Threading. I fought the first couple of times, and mostly it was because I thought I would thread it the way I wanted to (using the diagrams but not in the proper order) and not in the order that the manual specified. I have a serger threading "tool set", but I agree - tweezers and a dental floss threader will do about as well. The first time I took my serger to class, the lady who ran it told me that the first thing they would do in a class given by a dealer is cut my threads and make me rethread from scratch.
I couldn't figure out how making me run out of the shop crying was going to help me use my serger....
I know a few people who run their 4 thread sergers as 3 thread all the time.
Now I thread them in about 5 minutes, and have serviced 4 of them.
Check the knives and make sure they're still sharp. They will still cut cotton OK if they're dullish, they won't cut tricot though. It probably wouldn't be bad to pick up a set to have on hand anyway, I have no idea what the availability of the knives will be going forward... it IS a 30 odd year old machine. I should order a set myself now that I think about it.
Needle plates - They share with some other brands, and I have a spare or two, if you need them, PM me. When I got my serger, some parts were missing and I replaced what I needed to make it work. About 6 months later she found them all, so there are parts here I will likely never use.
Just like with sewing machines, tension just clicked for me one day.
I think this is how it works, I will verify when I get down into the studio for sure and correct if I was wrong.
You're aiming for the looper threads to lock right at the edge of the seam with no tunneling or gapping threads.
Usually, If the thread is loose but pulled over to the back, the lower looper is too tight. If it's loose but pulled up to the top, the top looper is too tight.
Both loopers too loose can look like a frilly edge when the lower thread and sometimes the upper thread is looped and loose at the edge.
Both loopers too tight will usually tilt the stitches on an angle, and can tunnel the fabric as they yank on the needle threads.
Just like with a regular sewing machine: Needle threads too tight, looper threads are pulled to the top. Needle threads too loose, needle threads are pulled and "loop" at the bottom.
Singer has the user manuals online, that's where mine came from. They also have a really good book, part of their Singer Sewing Reference Library - Sewing with an Overlock that has excellent photos and great explanations and a few projects in it.
I also have a few books from Naomi Baker, Tammy Young and Gail Brown that I quite like.
Possibly the one I've used the most of is ABCs of Serging by Tammy Young and Lori Bottom.
These are all books I found at the thrift store.
Where did you find the service manual? Free or purchased?
UGH. Sorry, another novel.
I don't do a lot with my serger, but I do make tank tops and serge the edges of some fabrics prior to washing and assemble the odd item with it. It does live in my studio rather than the "sewing machine repair shop" upstairs, but I don't know if I've used it since I moved into my studio in November. I think I did in October. This is why I would never buy a new one, I just don't have a lot of need for it, but I love having it when I do need it.
Threading. I fought the first couple of times, and mostly it was because I thought I would thread it the way I wanted to (using the diagrams but not in the proper order) and not in the order that the manual specified. I have a serger threading "tool set", but I agree - tweezers and a dental floss threader will do about as well. The first time I took my serger to class, the lady who ran it told me that the first thing they would do in a class given by a dealer is cut my threads and make me rethread from scratch.
I couldn't figure out how making me run out of the shop crying was going to help me use my serger....
I know a few people who run their 4 thread sergers as 3 thread all the time.
Now I thread them in about 5 minutes, and have serviced 4 of them.
Check the knives and make sure they're still sharp. They will still cut cotton OK if they're dullish, they won't cut tricot though. It probably wouldn't be bad to pick up a set to have on hand anyway, I have no idea what the availability of the knives will be going forward... it IS a 30 odd year old machine. I should order a set myself now that I think about it.
Needle plates - They share with some other brands, and I have a spare or two, if you need them, PM me. When I got my serger, some parts were missing and I replaced what I needed to make it work. About 6 months later she found them all, so there are parts here I will likely never use.
Just like with sewing machines, tension just clicked for me one day.
I think this is how it works, I will verify when I get down into the studio for sure and correct if I was wrong.
You're aiming for the looper threads to lock right at the edge of the seam with no tunneling or gapping threads.
Usually, If the thread is loose but pulled over to the back, the lower looper is too tight. If it's loose but pulled up to the top, the top looper is too tight.
Both loopers too loose can look like a frilly edge when the lower thread and sometimes the upper thread is looped and loose at the edge.
Both loopers too tight will usually tilt the stitches on an angle, and can tunnel the fabric as they yank on the needle threads.
Just like with a regular sewing machine: Needle threads too tight, looper threads are pulled to the top. Needle threads too loose, needle threads are pulled and "loop" at the bottom.
I also have a few books from Naomi Baker, Tammy Young and Gail Brown that I quite like.
Possibly the one I've used the most of is ABCs of Serging by Tammy Young and Lori Bottom.
These are all books I found at the thrift store.
Where did you find the service manual? Free or purchased?
UGH. Sorry, another novel.
02-13-2014, 12:34 PM
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane
I use the regular needles for sewing machines, that's what my 14u64A is labelled for. I got mine used from a friend and it does everything I need it to. I think you got a great deal on a very good machine. Remember that in the 80s the sergers were still "new" on the market, or relatively so. The quality hadn't really gone too far down by then.
I don't do a lot with my serger, but I do make tank tops and serge the edges of some fabrics prior to washing and assemble the odd item with it. It does live in my studio rather than the "sewing machine repair shop" upstairs, but I don't know if I've used it since I moved into my studio in November. I think I did in October. This is why I would never buy a new one, I just don't have a lot of need for it, but I love having it when I do need it.
Threading. I fought the first couple of times, and mostly it was because I thought I would thread it the way I wanted to (using the diagrams but not in the proper order) and not in the order that the manual specified. I have a serger threading "tool set", but I agree - tweezers and a dental floss threader will do about as well. The first time I took my serger to class, the lady who ran it told me that the first thing they would do in a class given by a dealer is cut my threads and make me rethread from scratch.
I couldn't figure out how making me run out of the shop crying was going to help me use my serger....
I know a few people who run their 4 thread sergers as 3 thread all the time.
Now I thread them in about 5 minutes, and have serviced 4 of them.
Check the knives and make sure they're still sharp. They will still cut cotton OK if they're dullish, they won't cut tricot though. It probably wouldn't be bad to pick up a set to have on hand anyway, I have no idea what the availability of the knives will be going forward... it IS a 30 odd year old machine. I should order a set myself now that I think about it.
Needle plates - They share with some other brands, and I have a spare or two, if you need them, PM me. When I got my serger, some parts were missing and I replaced what I needed to make it work. About 6 months later she found them all, so there are parts here I will likely never use.
Just like with sewing machines, tension just clicked for me one day.
I think this is how it works, I will verify when I get down into the studio for sure and correct if I was wrong.
You're aiming for the looper threads to lock right at the edge of the seam with no tunneling or gapping threads.
Usually, If the thread is loose but pulled over to the back, the lower looper is too tight. If it's loose but pulled up to the top, the top looper is too tight.
Both loopers too loose can look like a frilly edge when the lower thread and sometimes the upper thread is looped and loose at the edge.
Both loopers too tight will usually tilt the stitches on an angle, and can tunnel the fabric as they yank on the needle threads.
Just like with a regular sewing machine: Needle threads too tight, looper threads are pulled to the top. Needle threads too loose, needle threads are pulled and "loop" at the bottom.
Singer has the user manuals online, that's where mine came from. They also have a really good book, part of their Singer Sewing Reference Library - Sewing with an Overlock that has excellent photos and great explanations and a few projects in it.
I also have a few books from Naomi Baker, Tammy Young and Gail Brown that I quite like.
Possibly the one I've used the most of is ABCs of Serging by Tammy Young and Lori Bottom.
These are all books I found at the thrift store.
Where did you find the service manual? Free or purchased?
UGH. Sorry, another novel.
I don't do a lot with my serger, but I do make tank tops and serge the edges of some fabrics prior to washing and assemble the odd item with it. It does live in my studio rather than the "sewing machine repair shop" upstairs, but I don't know if I've used it since I moved into my studio in November. I think I did in October. This is why I would never buy a new one, I just don't have a lot of need for it, but I love having it when I do need it.
Threading. I fought the first couple of times, and mostly it was because I thought I would thread it the way I wanted to (using the diagrams but not in the proper order) and not in the order that the manual specified. I have a serger threading "tool set", but I agree - tweezers and a dental floss threader will do about as well. The first time I took my serger to class, the lady who ran it told me that the first thing they would do in a class given by a dealer is cut my threads and make me rethread from scratch.
I couldn't figure out how making me run out of the shop crying was going to help me use my serger....
I know a few people who run their 4 thread sergers as 3 thread all the time.
Now I thread them in about 5 minutes, and have serviced 4 of them.
Check the knives and make sure they're still sharp. They will still cut cotton OK if they're dullish, they won't cut tricot though. It probably wouldn't be bad to pick up a set to have on hand anyway, I have no idea what the availability of the knives will be going forward... it IS a 30 odd year old machine. I should order a set myself now that I think about it.
Needle plates - They share with some other brands, and I have a spare or two, if you need them, PM me. When I got my serger, some parts were missing and I replaced what I needed to make it work. About 6 months later she found them all, so there are parts here I will likely never use.
Just like with sewing machines, tension just clicked for me one day.
I think this is how it works, I will verify when I get down into the studio for sure and correct if I was wrong.
You're aiming for the looper threads to lock right at the edge of the seam with no tunneling or gapping threads.
Usually, If the thread is loose but pulled over to the back, the lower looper is too tight. If it's loose but pulled up to the top, the top looper is too tight.
Both loopers too loose can look like a frilly edge when the lower thread and sometimes the upper thread is looped and loose at the edge.
Both loopers too tight will usually tilt the stitches on an angle, and can tunnel the fabric as they yank on the needle threads.
Just like with a regular sewing machine: Needle threads too tight, looper threads are pulled to the top. Needle threads too loose, needle threads are pulled and "loop" at the bottom.
I also have a few books from Naomi Baker, Tammy Young and Gail Brown that I quite like.
Possibly the one I've used the most of is ABCs of Serging by Tammy Young and Lori Bottom.
These are all books I found at the thrift store.
Where did you find the service manual? Free or purchased?
UGH. Sorry, another novel.
Thanks on the offer for the needle plates, I have to get the machine in my hands first before I know what I need. Likely not until april as it's a couple thousand KM's away.
When I last saw it, it was pretty bare but looked complete. I will likely look for a rolled edge plate for it sometime.
Knives I'm not overly worried about. As long as it hasn't been nicked by a pin, I can sharpen them. Likely grab a few spares too, I see them all over ebay.
the service manual I had to buy. It popped up on ebay and I grabbed it. Original paper copy for 7 bucks. no complaints there. The owners manual I just down loaded from the singer site.
02-13-2014, 01:20 PM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane
Glad to help!
Wait! KMs away? Not Miles? Where are you? I might have a rolled hem plate. If you need one, I'll look for it once you know. Good job on the service manual. I'd love to score a copy of one.
Wait! KMs away? Not Miles? Where are you? I might have a rolled hem plate. If you need one, I'll look for it once you know. Good job on the service manual. I'd love to score a copy of one.
I'm from NS originally, but have lived in Ont, MB, Sk, BC and NWT.
I can scan a copy of mine when it arrives if you want. It's going to be for a 14U32, but things like the loopers should be similar if not the same...
Last edited by great white; 02-13-2014 at 01:24 PM.
02-13-2014, 06:07 PM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mendocino Coast, CA
Posts: 4,879
I know that there are people out there that LOVE their sergers, but I'm certainly not one of them. About 8, or 9 years ago, I bought 2 different styles of machines for our swimwear business, a JUKI and a JANOME. We used them to make first samples and then sent the samples to the pros for refinement. It would take hours to thread them and get them running and then they constantly went out of whack. What a nightmare! When I asked my sewing contractor how he managed with his professional sergers, he said the same thing. He spent all day going from table to table, fixing his machines. It was a full time job just keeping them running. It's a surprise that any garments ever got to the retailers.
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
02-13-2014, 06:40 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois...near St. Louis
Posts: 392
Originally Posted by tropit
I know that there are people out there that LOVE their sergers, but I'm certainly not one of them. About 8, or 9 years ago, I bought 2 different styles of machines for our swimwear business, a JUKI and a JANOME. We used them to make first samples and then sent the samples to the pros for refinement. It would take hours to thread them and get them running and then they constantly went out of whack. What a nightmare! When I asked my sewing contractor how he managed with his professional sergers, he said the same thing. He spent all day going from table to table, fixing his machines. It was a full time job just keeping them running. It's a surprise that any garments ever got to the retailers.
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
Just about everyone I know (I work in a fabric store) has sergers (many different brands & ages). And they have no problems with them.
About 20 years ago, I worked in the garment industry....both in the factory & as a samplemaker in the design room. No problems there either. In fact my mother was using a serger in a factory in the 30s (yeah, in the industry they had sergers even earlier than this. They called them merrow machines or overlockers then) & as far as I know, there were no problems there either. I'm at a loss to figure out why your experience was soooooo totally different!
02-13-2014, 07:05 PM
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Originally Posted by tropit
I know that there are people out there that LOVE their sergers, but I'm certainly not one of them. About 8, or 9 years ago, I bought 2 different styles of machines for our swimwear business, a JUKI and a JANOME. We used them to make first samples and then sent the samples to the pros for refinement. It would take hours to thread them and get them running and then they constantly went out of whack. What a nightmare! When I asked my sewing contractor how he managed with his professional sergers, he said the same thing. He spent all day going from table to table, fixing his machines. It was a full time job just keeping them running. It's a surprise that any garments ever got to the retailers.
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
Honestly, I'd seriously rethink the serger purchase, unless you really have a need for that kind of seam finishing, or you work with stretch fabrics a lot.
And that's my 2 cents.
~ Cindy
Couldn't pass it up for that.
Even if we get totally frustrated with it and resell it for 30 or 40 I'm money ahead.
Like I mentioned, it's going to be primarily for edge binding anyways.
I'm also going to tinker with it a bit, which I get great pleasure out of.
It looks like I may be able to convert it to a 4 thread, essentially making it a 14u34.
Last edited by great white; 02-13-2014 at 07:09 PM.
02-13-2014, 09:53 PM
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319
Even though I gripe about threading it, I do love my serger. I don't have any issues with it, but I don't use it much anymore as I pretty much stick to quilting. I mainly used it to do garment construction for my kids when they were small and there's nothing like a professional looking finished seam:>
The parts alone are worth the price, so have fun learning about it.
The parts alone are worth the price, so have fun learning about it.
02-14-2014, 05:02 AM
#30
Super Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sun City West, AZ
Posts: 1,265
I use my Pfaff 788 all the time for garment sewing, and lots of other things. I paid the big bucks for it on Craigslist a few years ago...$75 after my older Singer made me crazy one too many times. I learned to use a serger in a garment factory in the 70s and was happy when they came out with domestic machines. Have fun playing with it!
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