log cabin PP or not?
07-01-2011, 02:20 PM
#31
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I heavily starch backing fabrics with a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, painting it on until the fabric is saturated. I toss the saturated fabric in the dryer, then iron with steam. There has been no problem with starch in the dryer.
07-01-2011, 02:39 PM
#32
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: North Wales UK
Posts: 2,028
Originally Posted by Ann912
My tries at LC came out wonky too. Where do you ladies get the PP foundations?
07-01-2011, 02:58 PM
#33
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,312
Originally Posted by BrendaK
Originally Posted by Lori S
I really do not like taking the papers out when paper piecing. I love the method for some blocks. But for a log cabin where there are no "points" ... I would starch my fabric prior to cutting ( I use a pretty heavy starch). Then cut my strips. I make log cabins with strips as narrow a 1 1/4 inch . For me it goes much faster than P/P and I can get very accurate using starch( be very generous) and my 1/4 inch foot.
Starch tip- use the Stay - flo concentrate in the blue bottle ( I find it at Walmart in the laundry section) dilute it about 2 parts water to 1 part starch. I dip the fabrics in... let it saturate , use a drying rack for drying. then iron. You will be pleasently surprised at the difference it makes in the final results. This part takes a bit of time ... but soo worth it. Once I have it starched , ironed and cut ... I am off to the races so to speak... It goes so fast then.
I find the accuarcy is so good I have not had to square up till the end and then it was so minimal it was non -existant.
Starch tip- use the Stay - flo concentrate in the blue bottle ( I find it at Walmart in the laundry section) dilute it about 2 parts water to 1 part starch. I dip the fabrics in... let it saturate , use a drying rack for drying. then iron. You will be pleasently surprised at the difference it makes in the final results. This part takes a bit of time ... but soo worth it. Once I have it starched , ironed and cut ... I am off to the races so to speak... It goes so fast then.
I find the accuarcy is so good I have not had to square up till the end and then it was so minimal it was non -existant.
I did not starch fabrics for years ( I've been quilting since before the rotary cutter) , once I started many moons ago I loved the results ... I use concentrate as it is cheaper and I can mix strenghts to what my needs are.
07-01-2011, 10:59 PM
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North AL
Posts: 1,830
Thank you.
There is one here: http://www.quilterscache.com/L/LogCabinBlock.html but it is easy enough to draw one out yourself once you see the principal.
07-01-2011, 11:04 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 11,911
Originally Posted by Sadiemae
I would PP a very small log cabin pattern, but not the rest.
I really like Elanor Burns Log cabin book for regular sized blocks. Very nice quick rotary cutting technique.
07-02-2011, 02:39 AM
#38
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gwynn's Island, VA
Posts: 32
I just finished a log cabin for a wedding gift. I also chain pieced it with no problem. I cut as accurately as I can, pin the ends & make an effort not to stretch or distort the fabric. Never squared and had no problems. Paper piecing is a last resort for me! Too much time, effort and all that wasted paper? No thanks!
07-02-2011, 03:34 AM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 107
I have a cheater foot for 1/4 piecing. Has a little metal bar to keep me sewing at 1/4" Makes life easier & seams straighter. Didn't have it on my first long cabin & it was hard to keep all those seams straight. I remember wondering why the log cabin is recommended to beginners.
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