Pounce frustration
07-03-2017, 07:54 AM
#31
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 14
Do you ever have trouble getting the marking chalk washed out?
THIS MAY OR NOT BE HELPFUL ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP
CHALK
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheep].
You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.
You can use cinnamon on light colored fabric.
PAPER
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner.
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.
APPLYING CHALK
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it.
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit inside rim on top of the lid.
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows.
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.
PATTERN MARKING
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over.
On the quilt machine I slide a 24”x48” piece of 1/8” plexus glass under my top fabric for a firm marking area, then, remove for quilting.
I am fast at this as I have done it for years. If you think this is to long, I don’t type, I peck.
I am just saying…..I hope this helps someone. [i posted this in 2010.]
Phyllis
CHALK
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheep].
You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.
You can use cinnamon on light colored fabric.
PAPER
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner.
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.
APPLYING CHALK
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it.
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit inside rim on top of the lid.
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows.
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.
PATTERN MARKING
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over.
On the quilt machine I slide a 24”x48” piece of 1/8” plexus glass under my top fabric for a firm marking area, then, remove for quilting.
I am fast at this as I have done it for years. If you think this is to long, I don’t type, I peck.
I am just saying…..I hope this helps someone. [i posted this in 2010.]
Phyllis
07-07-2017, 09:32 AM
#34
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
Fish, the press and seal gets quilted down and needs to be torn off, so you need a new piece for each block.
When I first started using the pounce pad, it wasn't "loaded" well so it didn't cover the line when I slid it over the template. Now that it is fully loaded, it works just fine.
When I first started using the pounce pad, it wasn't "loaded" well so it didn't cover the line when I slid it over the template. Now that it is fully loaded, it works just fine.
07-07-2017, 07:38 PM
#35
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,231
OP said "When I lift my stencil, all I have is a faint, smeared mess."
The smear tells me that your stencil is shifting...the faint tells me that your pounce pad isn't fully loaded (saturated) with the chalk. Do what others have suggested to fully saturate your pad. If your stencil is moving, use spray glue or painters tape to keep it secure...your top has to be secure and taught, and on a hard surface. There is a learning curve, but basically...load your pad, secure your stencil, and you'll be off to a good start.
The smear tells me that your stencil is shifting...the faint tells me that your pounce pad isn't fully loaded (saturated) with the chalk. Do what others have suggested to fully saturate your pad. If your stencil is moving, use spray glue or painters tape to keep it secure...your top has to be secure and taught, and on a hard surface. There is a learning curve, but basically...load your pad, secure your stencil, and you'll be off to a good start.
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