minibarn

I have looked at dozens of applique tutorials but still have a few questions that didn't seem to get answered, probably I just missed them. Anyway, will be glad for some help.

1) when doing fusible applique do I need to put something behind the block if I use a zig-zag or satin stitch and if so what is best to use?

2) when using fusible what is the best way to start and stop my stitching to lock it?

3) again when using fusible how do I make nice circles? Cutting and stitching.

4) I did a practice block using heat 'n bond lite but it still seems a bit stiff to me, what other products do y'all recommend?

I haven't totally decided if I want to go w/fusible but these are questions that came ot mind while practicing on a block. Today I plan to try the freezer paper method using spray starch and then hand sewing the applique...that will probably result in yet more questions so thank you for being helpful and patient w/me.

Jenna

feline fanatic

To help with stiffness you can "window Pane" your fusible.

Trace your shape on the fusible and before fusing to the back of your applique fabric, cut out the center of the fusible shape leaving only an approximate 1/4" to 1/2" that will fuse.

If doing a satin stitch I always use a stabilizer of some sort. The kind you use is purely up to you. some people use used dryer sheets, some use a tear away stabilizer, some use a water soluble and some use nothing and heavily starch the background to avoid puckering.

I use a blanket stitch and do not need any stabilizer for that. I have never done it with zigzag.

To start and stop, again it depends what stitch you are using. I remove my block from the sewing machine, flip it over pull both threads to the back and knot them. I have done satin stitch the same way.

Circles are tough to get to look nice and smooth when using a satin stitch. Basically the best way to do circles is to set your machine to the needle down position and stop and rotate your block every few stitches.

rryder

For sewing circles you could also try a tool that you add to your sewing machine. In some cases you can buy a brand specific tool, but you can also buy generic tools. I bought the generic one from Nancy's notions and it allows you to sew a wide variety of circle sizes. It's the only way I have ever managed to sew actual circles that look good.

For cutting circles there are several circle cutters on the market, where they use a rotary cutting blade attached to a bar, like a bar compass. Or you can also get a template that works with an 18mm rotary cutter, where you fold the fabric in half, place the fold along a marked spot, then insert the rotary cutter in the appropriate slot and cut. These templates are shaped like half circles and have grooves for a variety of sizes. When you remove your fabric and unfold it you have a perfect circle.

Rob

Gail B

I used lightweight heat'n'bond and a blanket stitch around the appliqué. I have a locking stitch on my machine & that is what I use to lock the stitch. You can also backstitch & that works well.

MadQuilter

I use Soft Fuse or Steam-a-seam lite.
As for stitching, I like to use a blanket stitch. As long as I keep the stitch CLOSE to the applique, I tend to not use a stabilizer. However, I have used tear-away stabilizers in the past. You will know fairly quickly if it is necessary as the attached applique will "pull" against the fabric. If you see puckers in the backing fabric, go ahead and use the stabilizer.

I have seen a great way to start and end blanket stitch applique (by Ricky Tims). He starts and ends with a few tiny straight stitches that will be hidden in the straight edge part of the blanket stitch.

When I use zig-zag, I just overlap a few stitches to secure. Never had anything come undone.

For circles, any template will do. Just find one the right size. Go slow when cutting.

selm

I've only done fusible applique once without prior experience. After some online research I went with school glue basting the applique as I didn't want it stiff at all. It was done quite a while ago and the quilt hasn't been quilted(or washed) yet but the applique looks good and feels pretty flexible even though the glue has not been washed out yet. I didn't use a stabilizer. Just another possibility.

ckcowl

The fusible washes away when your finished project is laundered- getting rid of the stiffness. I use heat n bond lite often, there is also misty fuse which is very lightweight.
ive only needed a stabilizer behind my blocks for stitching when I was using very thin fine fabrics ( silk and a lightweight batik) I generally use a small blanket stitch or zigzag. I don't do satin stitch ( personal choice, don't like the heaviness/ stiffness of it) when I have satin stitched I found I needed stabilizer.

Prism99

For machine applique, especially if you are satin stitching (but also if the appliques are quite large), it is best to stabilize the background fabric. Instead of using stabilizer, however, I heavily starch the background fabric (think 1:1 Sta-Flo liquid starch and water). Heavy starch stabilizes the background fabric enough that it won't stretch or distort while you are machine sewing around the applique.

Fusible stabilizes the applique; however, the background fabric also benefits from being stabilized. If you have not washed the background fabric, sometimes there is enough stabilizer in the fabric from the factory. However, if you have washed the background fabric, typically it is more limp than when it came right off the bolt. Starching the fabric will restore and even add stability.

If you think about it, when you are machine appliqueing, there are times when you are sewing on the bias of the background fabric. The bias is the most likely to stretch. When the background fabric is heavily starched, the bias won't stretch.

The fusible with the least stiffness is Misty Fuse. However, you need to Google tips on using it first. It does not come with a paper backing like other fusibles, for example. What I do is iron it between sheets of parchment paper, peel off one of the parchment paper sheets while it is all still warm, and leave the other one as the paper backing. I go to this extra work because I like the fact that it does not stiffen the appliques at all; it is as if there is no fusible at all there. With experimentation I found that the old Steam-a-Seam was the best of the paper fusibles; however, I have heard the new Steam-a-Seam is not as soft. Years ago I tried Wonder Under, but it was way too stiff for me even after washing.

mjpEncinitas

I do a lot of fusible applique. I like steam a seam 2. For the first time I was in a swap, I did not have the batting behind the fused pieces. A blanket stitch worked just fine, didn't need stabilizer.

I don't use a satin stitch as my pieces tend to be small. What I do instead is just FMQ around the item I've fused on. IF you do this 3 or 4 or 5 times around it looks like you've satin stitched. You can catch all the edges. Since almost all of your stitches were on the fusible you do not need to add a stabilizer. I like the way it turns out. I start and stop as you would for FMQ.

mjpEncinitas

steam a seam 2 lite