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  • Dresden Plate Block with round edges

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    Old 06-30-2017, 06:08 AM
      #11  
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    I think I know just what would work for you. Nancy Zeiman did a Quilt Extravaganza last year with BOMs. I very much liked the August block and copied it for my library. I just went to her site but was unable to bring up anything on the search.

    Eleanor Burns also did something similar some time ago, but she uses a fusible interface and covers a bit more of the section whereas Nancy Z only has a small strip on the top which she then inverts.

    Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-03-2017 at 05:23 AM. Reason: offering to share copyright material
    Jo Belmont is offline  
    Old 06-30-2017, 10:09 AM
      #12  
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    I use Sewer Paper from Home Depot.. sew it on the back and turn it..easy to appliqué on your square and edges are perfect. Don't iron with a HOT iron or you will melt the paper...medium heat works fine. I love it!
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    Old 06-30-2017, 10:29 AM
      #13  
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    I have used the mylar before and works great, but I don't always have it when I need it. Now when I make an applique pattern, I print out the piece needed making sure it printed at the same size. Cut around shape leaving extra outside of line. Glue to a piece of cardboard from coke, cereal, cracker, etc box. Cut out shape on the line. Put shape on back of fabric. In your case, the fabric is already cut to shape with turn allowance. Position cardboard shape, you can use a light dab of glue stick to hold. Spray starch in a water bottle cap, qtip starch on turn allowance, and iron turn-edge over cardboard. Hold iron for a couple seconds to dry and set. Don't scorch fabric. Let it cool and remove cardboard. Your edge will be set and smooth (if you cut the curve without any jagged parts. Cut slowly and with blades closest to handle.) Sorry for long instructions. You can see in picture what I have done. [ATTACH=CONFIG]575537[/ATTACH]
    I don't have good luck with freezer paper, as the layers won't stay together, no matter how hot the iron is, and the edges bend, lap over, and distort after I use them a few times.
    Attached Thumbnails 20170630_111148_resized.jpg  

    Last edited by yngldy; 06-30-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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    Old 06-30-2017, 02:10 PM
      #14  
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    Maybe this recent facing tutorial might help you with just making a facing for it, rather than a full backing? Or you could do the full backing and then trim it down to an inch or so?
    Facing a quilted piece.
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    Old 07-01-2017, 04:26 AM
      #15  
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    Originally Posted by luvstoquilt
    I use Sewer Paper from Home Depot.. sew it on the back and turn it..easy to appliqué on your square and edges are perfect. Don't iron with a HOT iron or you will melt the paper...medium heat works fine. I love it!

    Yes, and very inexpensive...found in plumbing section...sewer, like in drain for water, not needle & thread!
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    Old 07-01-2017, 04:49 AM
      #16  
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    Originally Posted by popover
    Used dryer sheets work well, and are very light. Once you have turned and pressed, you can cut most of it away.
    That's what I was going to suggest, too.
    Also try pinking the edge so there's no bunching of the curve when you turn it under. Remember clipping those v's out of curves when we used to do garment construction? It takes the bulk out of the curve.
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    Old 07-01-2017, 05:19 AM
      #17  
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    Originally Posted by Faintly Artistic
    You could put your background fabric on the Dresdens with right sides facing, then machine sew around your circle. Pull them apart in the middle and cut the excess fabric from the center leaving a seam allowance. Then flip it right side out. Just be careful not to cut through your Dresdens. Should give you a perfect circle.
    I don't get this. If you do this as I think these directions say, your background fabric will be inside the two layers. These directions work well if you want to add a very thin backing to the circle in order to get a smooth line to the outside of the circle. Plate and backing are placed right sides together and sewn all around the outside. Seam allowances would be carefully trimmed and clipped. The thin backing is cut enough to get the plate birthed, to right sides out. Then that circle would be appliqued to the background in the method of your choosing. Good luck.
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    Old 07-01-2017, 05:31 AM
      #18  
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    After cutting my Dresden plates from the templates, usually 3-4 layers at a time. I draw a curve I'm happy with on the wrong side of the fabric with quilter's marking pencil (or whichever device you choose) then do the "v" snips only to your drawn curve line. You can use the smallest dab of glue or starch to hold down and press. Stitch your blades together then applique onto your backing fabric.
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    Old 07-01-2017, 06:28 AM
      #19  
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    you stitch a band of fusible interfacing to the rounded edge (like a facing). When you flip it to the backside, it gives you a nice edge. When you fuse it down, it holds it nicely for you to applique stitch it. You can attach the fusible to the whole dresden or just an inch around the edge. The added weight is very little. You can use a very lightweight fusible. Just watch carefully that you are applying it correctly so that when you turn it, the fusible will be on the outside ready to iron to the background.
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    Old 07-01-2017, 07:12 AM
      #20  
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    I agree with Raggiemom, that's called raw edge applique. Best if you use a product like "steam-a-seam 2" and press it on first. If you are fortunate enough to have a special applique stitch on your machine use that. If not you also can use a blanket stitch or zig-zag stitch, but you will want to adjust your stitch so that it is just small enough to reach both background fabric and applique. Hope that helps.
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