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  • Help making a on-point quilt bigger by adding rows

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    Old 02-04-2020, 12:30 PM
      #1  
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    Default Help making a on-point quilt bigger by adding rows

    So I can do math through Trig easily, but this math is stumping me. My mom found a pattern for a quilt that has square blocks set on point without any sashing between the blocks. The finished quilt measures 50x60 and doesn't have a border. Each block is 7.5x7.5 and has a hypotenuse of 10.6 inches. There are 50 blocks in the quilt, with the added edge triangles.. The quilt is assembled on point with 10 rows - the first row having one block, row 2 has 3 blocks, row 3 has 5 blocks, up to rows 5 and 6 having 9 blocks, then decreasing from there.

    She wants to increase the dimensions of the quilt to 63x90 for a twin bed. We can add borders to help with the dimensions. She can either make the squares bigger (the squares are assembled with 4 squares, 2 short rectangles, and 1 long rectangle) or add rows. I'm thinking adding rows would be best to keep the visual interest of the pattern. What I can't figure out is how many rows need to be added to increase the 50x60 quilt to close to 63x90 (with a possible border)? If this was a quilt with set regular blocks, the math is simple, but with the blocks set on point, I can't figure out how many inches each additional block adds to the overall dimension of the quilt. Any help you can give me would be appreciated!!
    Ranchwife is offline  
    Old 02-04-2020, 12:36 PM
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    Try blocking it out on graph paper. I've found that's the most foolproof way for me to figure these things out.
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    Old 02-04-2020, 12:48 PM
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    I'm trying that right now! Thanks for the suggestion.
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    Old 02-04-2020, 01:38 PM
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    Here's my graph paper scribbles. I started with a diagonal point layout I drew for something else and expanded it.

    There are many ways to describe diagonal sets, I usually use A and B designations. A are the first ones you put down point to point. B are the ones that fill in.

    The thick pencil lines (ignore the inner ink lines) show the current size. Each of your blocks will add about 10" for each one that you add to your A rows, but don't forget to add you B blocks. The circles show the blocks that were originally half blocks that are now full blocks.

    For the size you want and what you already have, you might consider setting with alternate blocks, you still might have to make a couple.

    edit: Forgot to add this link, last year I made an on-point quilt with sashing. The blocks were 7.5" unfinished. Here's a picture and some more about that project if you want to try sashing. I started writing up a tutorial on how to figure out the yardage needed for on-point settings but I sort of abandoned it. Still, I have the start and some good info an will go back to it if it will help.
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    Last edited by Iceblossom; 02-04-2020 at 01:52 PM. Reason: better link to Scrap Metal project
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    Old 02-04-2020, 04:27 PM
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    Originally Posted by Ranchwife
    So I can do math through Trig easily, but this math is stumping me. My mom found a pattern for a quilt that has square blocks set on point without any sashing between the blocks. The finished quilt measures 50x60 and doesn't have a border. Each block is 7.5x7.5 and has a hypotenuse of 10.6 inches. There are 50 blocks in the quilt, with the added edge triangles.. The quilt is assembled on point with 10 rows - the first row having one block, row 2 has 3 blocks, row 3 has 5 blocks, up to rows 5 and 6 having 9 blocks, then decreasing from there.

    She wants to increase the dimensions of the quilt to 63x90 for a twin bed. We can add borders to help with the dimensions. She can either make the squares bigger (the squares are assembled with 4 squares, 2 short rectangles, and 1 long rectangle) or add rows. I'm thinking adding rows would be best to keep the visual interest of the pattern. What I can't figure out is how many rows need to be added to increase the 50x60 quilt to close to 63x90 (with a possible border)? If this was a quilt with set regular blocks, the math is simple, but with the blocks set on point, I can't figure out how many inches each additional block adds to the overall dimension of the quilt. Any help you can give me would be appreciated!!
    I had a similar problem when I made an on-point quilt. I increased the size from lap size to twin size by making additional blocks. I had rows with 1,3,5,7,9,9,7,5,3,1; I made 2 rows with 11 blocks, so I ended up with 1,3,5,7,9,11,11,9,7,5,3,1.
    Another thing you could do is watch Jenny Doan's tutorial on YouTube on on-point blocks. The blocks are actually square, but with a triangle added to each side, the square blocks were set side -to-side, but looked like they were on-point.
    nanac is offline  
    Old 02-05-2020, 05:14 AM
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    Increase in the middle. I do it like maniac.
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    Old 02-05-2020, 07:23 AM
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    Think of "rows" on the diagonal, not up or down, or side to side. The first row is from the top left corner, diagonally to the other side, long enough so that the quilt is wide enough. The second row can be below the first; then it will be the same length as the first row. Continue this length of rows until the quilt is long enough. Now each row will be 2 squares less. When the corner is reached, finish the top right corner in the same manner. Do not sew the rows together yet. Make your setting triangles and corner triangles and sew them onto the correct rows. Then sew the rows together.
    I make the setting triangles a little larger so that they have a little float and can be trimmed to about 1/2 inch outside the points of the squares.
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    Old 02-05-2020, 01:35 PM
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    How comfortable are you with improvising?

    My quick estimate is that the existing pattern makes a quilt 60x50", so two of them side-by-side would be 60x100". This is a bit narrower and longer than your desired size, but I would just make twice as many blocks as the pattern calls for. Lay it out, see how it looks, and remove a row or add a border as desired.

    The downside of this approach is that you don't know how many setting triangles you need until the very end; if you're not comfortable with that, then you will need to do the actual math.

    Good luck!
    Jennifer23 is offline  

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