Trimming units or not
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: S.E. Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,465
Trimming units or not
If you purchase a quilt pattern, which method to you prefer - trying to make each unit the correct size or making it larger then trimming to size. I find 4patch units not too bad, but something like Peaky & Spike (in progress atm.) are always smaller than needed using a 1/4" seam allowance.
I'm sure this has been mentioned before, but haven't found anything yet.
I'm sure this has been mentioned before, but haven't found anything yet.
#2
I do my very best to cut and sew accurately and I always square up each unit when piecing. I think in the case of TIS, I would use Deb Tuckers ruler to achieve the best results. I am a Deb Tucker fan and love all her techniques and rulers!.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 714
I have always cut my fabrics larger then trim down. But recently I have finally gotten my Janome 6600 fitted with a foot and adjusted needle position to achieve a perfect 1/4" seam allowance. Oh Happy Day!! However, on some blocks, I still oversize.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,127
I spent my first 20 years trying to be as accurate as I could be in cutting and piecing. It didn't even occur to me to measure or trim subunits for some time...
I've spent the last 20 years developing techniques where I cut larger and trim down. I find that in the end my results come out better, and even with the extra strep(s) are faster and more joyful/less drudgery. I also pin and press open, and use strip piecing techniques whenever I can. If I need to for complex shapes or steps I will make templates of the subunits. Warning, don't use template plastic as a cutting guide. Position the template and ruler to determine trim lines, and pull the template out of the way. Sometimes I will mark cuts/shapes with quilter's tape (1/4" masking tape) or blue tape on my ruler. With my vision issues I do this a lot.
I don't always cut large, for example, if I have to make a bunch of identical 4-patches, the strip piecing is usually enough. That is I take two WoF strips of fabric and sew them together first. Then I cut 2-patch pieces instead of starting with 2 piles of squares. When the 4-patches are made and pressed they do a quick under the ruler to make sure they aren't skewed and trip off any little bits if they are.
When cutting large there is no one rule that will work for "how large", the geometry and squares and trigonometry of triangles don't always play together unless you enforce some discipline I want to cut large enough to be worth trimming without wasting fabric, usually 1/4" is more than enough. I have found I actually have very little waste, most of it is the 2-3" of leftover in strip piecing techniques. Despite the math and 7/8ths for a triangle tip, I always round up to a full inch. 1/8th may not seem like a lot but with two pieces of fabric, each 1/8th larger that is a 1/4 in total to trim off. Some shapes like a Flying Geese unit I cut the large triangle as directed, and just cut the side wings larger. For small HST I am more successful using what I used to consider a "fabric wasteful" technique of starting with squares and sewing along the diagonal line, cutting off and "wasting" the seam side. Again, I am faster and more accurate and small triangles use up lot of fabric in the seams as it is.
I've spent the last 20 years developing techniques where I cut larger and trim down. I find that in the end my results come out better, and even with the extra strep(s) are faster and more joyful/less drudgery. I also pin and press open, and use strip piecing techniques whenever I can. If I need to for complex shapes or steps I will make templates of the subunits. Warning, don't use template plastic as a cutting guide. Position the template and ruler to determine trim lines, and pull the template out of the way. Sometimes I will mark cuts/shapes with quilter's tape (1/4" masking tape) or blue tape on my ruler. With my vision issues I do this a lot.
I don't always cut large, for example, if I have to make a bunch of identical 4-patches, the strip piecing is usually enough. That is I take two WoF strips of fabric and sew them together first. Then I cut 2-patch pieces instead of starting with 2 piles of squares. When the 4-patches are made and pressed they do a quick under the ruler to make sure they aren't skewed and trip off any little bits if they are.
When cutting large there is no one rule that will work for "how large", the geometry and squares and trigonometry of triangles don't always play together unless you enforce some discipline I want to cut large enough to be worth trimming without wasting fabric, usually 1/4" is more than enough. I have found I actually have very little waste, most of it is the 2-3" of leftover in strip piecing techniques. Despite the math and 7/8ths for a triangle tip, I always round up to a full inch. 1/8th may not seem like a lot but with two pieces of fabric, each 1/8th larger that is a 1/4 in total to trim off. Some shapes like a Flying Geese unit I cut the large triangle as directed, and just cut the side wings larger. For small HST I am more successful using what I used to consider a "fabric wasteful" technique of starting with squares and sewing along the diagonal line, cutting off and "wasting" the seam side. Again, I am faster and more accurate and small triangles use up lot of fabric in the seams as it is.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 1,393
I don't worry too much about trimming to size as make each block because I don't use patterns and tend toward the improv style. However, when I do make a lot of "identical" blocks, I do them all before sizing them all up - measure the smallest and make the rest of them that size. By working from the center of my design toward the outside, I can make adjustments 'on the go". the final result may not be the exact size the "pattern" says, but the parts all fit together well.
#7
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,476
I think peaky a d spike - triangle in a square - units work out better when the pieces are cut to suze.
I think I cut accurately a d when piecing squares and rectangles.- using my 1/= inch seam - the units end up being the size expected.
For reasons I do not understand, I need to make the seams narrower when sewing triangles to get the unit to be large enough..
I usually do a practice piece before proceeding so I can make adjustments as needed.
I think I cut accurately a d when piecing squares and rectangles.- using my 1/= inch seam - the units end up being the size expected.
For reasons I do not understand, I need to make the seams narrower when sewing triangles to get the unit to be large enough..
I usually do a practice piece before proceeding so I can make adjustments as needed.
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: northern minnesota
Posts: 2,401
I usually make a couple of test strips and will adjust my seam allowance until I get the size. Then I always make a few extra. I will remeasure the units periodically as I stitch especially if I have stitched for a while or if I had to change to different machine. I really don't like sliver trimming at all. I usually do press my blocks as I go and I figure that the pressing process sometimes stretches the fabric a bit so if I have to trim it down, I may end up a bit short. I think of fabric as a fluid media in that it does have some give and sometimes does distort a bit but will sometimes distort itself back when it gets washed or handled again. So, accurate cutting, not over pressing or handling the fabric, and making sure my seam is right, is really important. No, I don't always get perfect points or size, but generally, it really is close enough so the quilt looks just fine when finally done.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 4,230
I don't cut larger, but I do check units for size and trim if needed. I use a scant 1/4" seam, and prefer having something to trim to having a unit that is shy of size. I also need a narrower seam when triangles are involved, as bearisgray mentioned.
Regarding the Peaky and Spike issue, I could not get those units right when using the Tri-Recs rulers. I think the Deb Tucker V-block is a good option (although with that, my seam allowance at the bottom seems to be slightly narrow). Last year I had to start using an Accuquilt cutter so as to lessen the amount of rotary cutting I did, and I found I could get a good V-block with the Accuquilt if I used a scant seam allowance and pressed with extreme care.
Regarding the Peaky and Spike issue, I could not get those units right when using the Tri-Recs rulers. I think the Deb Tucker V-block is a good option (although with that, my seam allowance at the bottom seems to be slightly narrow). Last year I had to start using an Accuquilt cutter so as to lessen the amount of rotary cutting I did, and I found I could get a good V-block with the Accuquilt if I used a scant seam allowance and pressed with extreme care.
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Finger Lakes of upstate NY
Posts: 3,466
I prefer to have instructions that will give me the correct size unit. I do sliver trim and measure units as I go. Making things oversize and cutting them down seems like a waste of fabric. Lord knows, I need to save every half inch bc I don't have all that much, lol.