1891 Singer Model ?
#11
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
well patience is one of the few virtues I have left, so....
If you are willing to we can walk through it here or through Email or PM.
You can take a few specific photos, we can do some research, and go from there. Like a view of the bottom that is "straight at it", then we can ask for more from there.
Remote serviceish...
If you are willing to we can walk through it here or through Email or PM.
You can take a few specific photos, we can do some research, and go from there. Like a view of the bottom that is "straight at it", then we can ask for more from there.
Remote serviceish...
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 120
I have this same machine also with the cabinet and all mine is missing the front slide plate so am looking for one of them my son found it for me for Christmas present i was thrilled it such a pretty machine.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Ridge, Ut
Posts: 105
mkay - I saw some of the slide plates on ebay. Mine has both of the slide plates but I can't get them to budge. I'm not sure what to put on them to free them up. A lot of posts say not to use WD40. I've seen some that use kerosene. I just don't want to damage the finish on the machine.
#15
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
NO on the WD-40 (Stands for Water Displacement formula #40) when it dries it leaves a residue that is not a lubricant and will actually stick the machine up.
Use Tri-Flo or sewing machine oil. Really. it will loosen over time. Sewing machine oil also leaves a residue (varnish) but it is not as bad as the WD-40. Tri-Flow is a silicon based product that leaves a silicon residue which is still a lubricant even when dry.
A more expensive solution is Kroil. It is a penetrating oil that is very popular with gunsmiths and the like. but it is 2x the price of the others.
Using the heat from a hairdryer will also help (be careful metal parts heat up quick)
I am currently working out a method to reliably make replacement slides for folks. I make the straight ones no problem, but the ones with the "bite" taken out are more challenging to get correct on a reliable basis. I even have a sample that I am working from to copy.
Use Tri-Flo or sewing machine oil. Really. it will loosen over time. Sewing machine oil also leaves a residue (varnish) but it is not as bad as the WD-40. Tri-Flow is a silicon based product that leaves a silicon residue which is still a lubricant even when dry.
A more expensive solution is Kroil. It is a penetrating oil that is very popular with gunsmiths and the like. but it is 2x the price of the others.
Using the heat from a hairdryer will also help (be careful metal parts heat up quick)
I am currently working out a method to reliably make replacement slides for folks. I make the straight ones no problem, but the ones with the "bite" taken out are more challenging to get correct on a reliable basis. I even have a sample that I am working from to copy.
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Ridge, Ut
Posts: 105
SteveH - I sent you a private message this morning about the missing bobbin. I just checked and my sent message is not there. Don't know where it when. Will try it again. Thanks for the heads up on the WD-40 and alternatives.
#17
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Steve
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Ridge, Ut
Posts: 105
I have some kerosene and sewing machine oil that came with my Janome. Will these work for loosening the slide plates without damaging the finish on the machine or decals? If not, I'll make a trip to the store for something else.
#20
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Oil will work just fine. It has on all 15 of the ones I have "broken loose"
I replied to your email. Simple parts needed, I included the links as well.
Steve
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