Don't Have A Clue How to De-stuck a Machine with Stucked Flywheel/Mechanism.
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
Don't Have A Clue How to De-stuck a Machine with Stucked Flywheel/Mechanism.
hi all,
mr newbie here. another silly or dumb question - how do you de-stuck a machine that has stucked fly wheel and mechanism. it seems that this machine was put in a barn and never been oiled since bought. i had the misfortune of using a plier to un-screw the back plate cover and the screw broke due to rust. i am afraid to move the fly wheel or turn it as i might break something. i hope i don't need to put this in a bath of oil as buying oil will be more expensive. any idea ? thanks again.
mr newbie here. another silly or dumb question - how do you de-stuck a machine that has stucked fly wheel and mechanism. it seems that this machine was put in a barn and never been oiled since bought. i had the misfortune of using a plier to un-screw the back plate cover and the screw broke due to rust. i am afraid to move the fly wheel or turn it as i might break something. i hope i don't need to put this in a bath of oil as buying oil will be more expensive. any idea ? thanks again.
#2
hi all,
mr newbie here. another silly or dumb question - how do you de-stuck a machine that has stucked fly wheel and mechanism. it seems that this machine was put in a barn and never been oiled since bought. i had the misfortune of using a plier to un-screw the back plate cover and the screw broke due to rust. i am afraid to move the fly wheel or turn it as i might break something. i hope i don't need to put this in a bath of oil as buying oil will be more expensive. any idea ? thanks again.
mr newbie here. another silly or dumb question - how do you de-stuck a machine that has stucked fly wheel and mechanism. it seems that this machine was put in a barn and never been oiled since bought. i had the misfortune of using a plier to un-screw the back plate cover and the screw broke due to rust. i am afraid to move the fly wheel or turn it as i might break something. i hope i don't need to put this in a bath of oil as buying oil will be more expensive. any idea ? thanks again.
Assuming it's the hand wheel, have you loosened the free motion screw first? This will narrow down what has seized. If it moves then the problem is likely on the needlebar side of the harp.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
welcome to the fun challenge of "de-stucking"! It's a real puzzle, but chances are you'll need to penetrate every metal to metal point with oil, solvent, secret brew of the day that does more good than harm. Good Luck!
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
When you say fly wheel, are you talking about the treadle wheel or the hand wheel on the machine head?
Assuming it's the hand wheel, have you loosened the free motion screw first? This will narrow down what has seized. If it moves then the problem is likely on the needlebar side of the harp.
Assuming it's the hand wheel, have you loosened the free motion screw first? This will narrow down what has seized. If it moves then the problem is likely on the needlebar side of the harp.
#6
Lots of people here will want to tell you not to use WD40, but it worked really well for me for this problem, and I wiped it off really thoroughly. Machine was a 1920s model 66.
After a little while (a few minutes connected to a motor) it was as smooth as one that's been well looked after.
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
A large portion of the machines I get are "frozen".
be very careful at this stage. Force is NOT what you want to be using. These machines were made with very tight tolerances so it is easy for two pieces to have moisture develop a rust bridge across parts. If you use force at this stage you will cause more wear and tear than decades of use....
I use the following stages:
1. Sewing machine oil. Every single location where unpainted metal moves against unpainted metal.
a. under the bed including every bit of the hook mechanism
b. remove face plate oil every nook and crannies
c. remove any rear access oil every thing that moves (baptize the bugger)
2. if an our or so of that does not do the trick, then i move on to Kriol (penetrating fluid, you can also use PB Blaster)
a. Same locations as before (BE VERY CAREFUL of decals with these.
I only have two machines that this did not work on, and both have two metal parts that are fused completely. I figure a few more weeks and patience and they will move too.
Most move in less than two hours.
be very careful at this stage. Force is NOT what you want to be using. These machines were made with very tight tolerances so it is easy for two pieces to have moisture develop a rust bridge across parts. If you use force at this stage you will cause more wear and tear than decades of use....
I use the following stages:
1. Sewing machine oil. Every single location where unpainted metal moves against unpainted metal.
a. under the bed including every bit of the hook mechanism
b. remove face plate oil every nook and crannies
c. remove any rear access oil every thing that moves (baptize the bugger)
2. if an our or so of that does not do the trick, then i move on to Kriol (penetrating fluid, you can also use PB Blaster)
a. Same locations as before (BE VERY CAREFUL of decals with these.
I only have two machines that this did not work on, and both have two metal parts that are fused completely. I figure a few more weeks and patience and they will move too.
Most move in less than two hours.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
A large portion of the machines I get are "frozen".
be very careful at this stage. Force is NOT what you want to be using. These machines were made with very tight tolerances so it is easy for two pieces to have moisture develop a rust bridge across parts. If you use force at this stage you will cause more wear and tear than decades of use....
I use the following stages:
1. Sewing machine oil. Every single location where unpainted metal moves against unpainted metal.
a. under the bed including every bit of the hook mechanism
b. remove face plate oil every nook and crannies
c. remove any rear access oil every thing that moves (baptize the bugger)
2. if an our or so of that does not do the trick, then i move on to Kriol (penetrating fluid, you can also use PB Blaster)
a. Same locations as before (BE VERY CAREFUL of decals with these.
I only have two machines that this did not work on, and both have two metal parts that are fused completely. I figure a few more weeks and patience and they will move too.
Most move in less than two hours.
be very careful at this stage. Force is NOT what you want to be using. These machines were made with very tight tolerances so it is easy for two pieces to have moisture develop a rust bridge across parts. If you use force at this stage you will cause more wear and tear than decades of use....
I use the following stages:
1. Sewing machine oil. Every single location where unpainted metal moves against unpainted metal.
a. under the bed including every bit of the hook mechanism
b. remove face plate oil every nook and crannies
c. remove any rear access oil every thing that moves (baptize the bugger)
2. if an our or so of that does not do the trick, then i move on to Kriol (penetrating fluid, you can also use PB Blaster)
a. Same locations as before (BE VERY CAREFUL of decals with these.
I only have two machines that this did not work on, and both have two metal parts that are fused completely. I figure a few more weeks and patience and they will move too.
Most move in less than two hours.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
i was able to take off the needle plate and sure enough, there's so many fabric lints. gave it a thorough clean-up and oiled all the parts i need to oil and will let it sit. i will check later. thanks a lot.
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