Free westinghouse sewing machine
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 13
Free westinghouse sewing machine
Hello,
I have an old Free Westinghouse sewing machine. It works and I need some help. I have attached pictures. The motor starts but the small back wheel doesn't connect with the large metal wheel unless I push the half circle thing in the back that is attached to the small wheel covered at the end with a piece of black rubber. This half circle thing moves up and down a little bit. I don't know if that is supposed to happen or not. If I move it and hold it up a little it connects and all is well. Of course it is hard to sew while holding it up. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jackie
I have an old Free Westinghouse sewing machine. It works and I need some help. I have attached pictures. The motor starts but the small back wheel doesn't connect with the large metal wheel unless I push the half circle thing in the back that is attached to the small wheel covered at the end with a piece of black rubber. This half circle thing moves up and down a little bit. I don't know if that is supposed to happen or not. If I move it and hold it up a little it connects and all is well. Of course it is hard to sew while holding it up. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jackie
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
If the motor pulley touches the hand wheel it probably just needs a new rubber pulley. I think SewClassic have them. I don't know this model first hand, there might be some adjustment or release action on these but I can see any from the picture. Some of these take slightly different needles than the basic domestic type. If you don't get any detailed help and hints here on the QB go to Victorian Sweatshop, there are lots of expert help to be found.
A temporary fix for the rubber wheel might be to rought the surface with a bit of sand paper, then apply some gripping resin (violin bow resin) to get some gripping action back. New rubber will make all the difference. The winder needs new rubber tire too.
A temporary fix for the rubber wheel might be to rought the surface with a bit of sand paper, then apply some gripping resin (violin bow resin) to get some gripping action back. New rubber will make all the difference. The winder needs new rubber tire too.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4,840
I don't know anything about servicing a sewing machine, but I had to chime in because I also have a Free-Westinghouse machine. It is like the one my mother had and that my sister and I learned to sew on. My mother had sold hers many years ago, but when my sister and I saw this one at an estate sale, we had to buy it. I haven't even tried it, because I'm not mechanically inclined. I read the manual, and it stated that you have to use their brand specific needles. Do you know if that is true and if they are hard to find?
Good luck with your machine.
Leslie[ATTACH=CONFIG]596184[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]596185[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]596186[/ATTACH]
Good luck with your machine.
Leslie[ATTACH=CONFIG]596184[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]596185[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]596186[/ATTACH]
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Some actually grind down a regular 15x1 needle for these, but it's not ideal. I found this info in a thread on the Victorian Sweatshop forum, the still availble 206X13 are said to work ideally on this machine. It looks like the original needle was a CC1221 and had an equivalent Boye number.
Both of you have to let us know how this machine runs and stitches. The rotary mechanism is suppose to run very light and smooth, but I guess a new rubber friction wheel would be a must to even notice.
Both of you have to let us know how this machine runs and stitches. The rotary mechanism is suppose to run very light and smooth, but I guess a new rubber friction wheel would be a must to even notice.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Rocsew, do you have a FW rotary? There is some concern on the ratio between thread hole and needle tip that makes it different from the regular 15x1 needle. It might interfere with threads interlocking properly If it works for those who use this model on a regular basis I guess a needlebar adjustment might be the way to go. The advantage with a regular 15x1 needle is the selection of sizes and tips available (sharp, butted, leather, etc).
#10
Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Western NY
Posts: 57
Rocsew, do you have a FW rotary? There is some concern on the ratio between thread hole and needle tip that makes it different from the regular 15x1 needle. It might interfere with threads interlocking properly If it works for those who use this model on a regular basis I guess a needlebar adjustment might be the way to go. The advantage with a regular 15x1 needle is the selection of sizes and tips available (sharp, butted, leather, etc).
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