Seijun

I had not intended to ever get a Singer, but I found this one for $15 at a thrift store and could not pass it up. I don't know yet if it works (it needs a new foot pedal) but I am going to try converting it to a hand crank. I bought a spoked wheel off ebay and fingers crossed that it will fit. This machine currently has a solid wheel.

I cleaned the dust off and have been experimenting with polishing using Renaissance wax. Cosmetically the machine is in decent shape except for the areas around two of the oil holes, which are a very distinct cloudy yellow color. I assume that at some point it was oiled and that oil got under the clear coat. When I wipe wax over it, it disappears, but only for a few minutes. The wax dries and the ugly yellow rings return.

The other odd thing is the front drawer. Maybe the cabinet is not original or has been modified? It is hard to explain, but the way the drawer opens makes it entirely useless for holding anything.

Cari-in-Oly

The drawer should have some sort of a stop piece attached to the side of it to prevent it from falling all the way forward like that.

Cari

leonf

You didn't mention how your motor is mounted. With a solid wheel machine, you will prolly be Ok, but you will need the boss in the pillar under the balance wheel and a hole for the screw. Not all 66s had them.


https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...738-582790.jpg

Brass Head

Kerosene, wd40 in a pinch. (Or call it patina!)

Seijun

What does the kerosene do?

Cari-in-Oly

Kerosene will dissolve old dried oil and gunk, if you can stand the smell. Personally, when I clean a black machine for the first time, I use plain sewing machine oil and after cleaning I use TR3 Resin Glaze to shine and protect it.

Cari

leonf

use kerosene only outside in well ventilated places Brr in Kansas USA today.

Brass Head

Yep. The older Singer manuals all say that if your machine gets balky, or some yahoo has lubed it up with 90-weight or suet, just douse the whole mess with kero (which DOES smell, even the "descented" iterations sold as lamp oil), then run it for a minute or two and reoil. I've never actually done that, but have taken comfort in the idea that kero will not harm Singer finishes and decals. I use cloth and kero on larger surfaces, then use qtips and kero in problem areas like those hardened smirps around around oil holes. For those little rust pips on nickle, I use kero, wd40 in a pinch and the finest BRONZE wool, which seems softer than nickle so that you can scrub it pretty well. I don't go for restored-like-new, more for used-but-well-cared-for, so I don't wax anything. I just rub 'em up gently with a very little kero/light oil mix I use with my oil stones on a piece of old sheet. We all have our magic potions.

Seijun

The yellow rings around the oil holes, that is on the outside you think? I assumed that it was under the clear coat. I had cleaned with soap and warm water and it did not affect the discolored spots.

I got a spoked hand wheel today and it seems to fit perfectly!

Seijun

I spent all of today cleaning, first with kerosene, then zymol cleanse. You were right about the kerosene, it took those gross stains right off! I have not waxed it yet, but already it is looking like a new machine. It has a beautiful semi-gloss finish and the decals are all in pristine shape. I am thinking of getting a custom base for it instead of using the cabinet.