Hello
07-23-2023, 05:55 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 135
Definitely something to be aware of, in any event.
Last edited by AlZilla; 07-23-2023 at 05:57 AM.
07-23-2023, 07:47 AM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,672
I agree, it went in, it should come out. However, it is not something that I believe was meant to be replaced as it was done at the factory with the equipment to press it in. Also the possibility of forcing the pin out could damage the pin as well as some other parts of the winder.
There have been some threads started about this problem and only one came back to say what was done to remedy and that one had a temporary solution, but in the end ended up getting one off ebay. Anyone ever had to fix the spring on a shuttle bobbin winder?? The temporary solution was similar to the one on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADqOgeTGrAQ In the comments below the video there was this response:
I think that something similar what may have been referred to at Singer 28 bobbin winder spring in the third post.
It looks like KenZ that posted Help needed with Singer 127 bobbin winder may have gotten his fixed even though the thread goes on about some other things about bobbin winders and not specifically the spring for holding the bobbin in place. He did post a picture of the machine in at his thread Singer 127 Sphinx in new home but does not mention how got bobbin winder to work. Maybe it was just crud that got soaked out.
For the three QB links mentioned above, the opening posters have not been on QB for at least a few years.
I would caution that if you do buy another bobbin winder (as csharp did) that you make sure it is the same. From the parts list there were several different bobbin winders for the long shuttle machines. Some were meant for treadle machines and some for hand crank machines. Some were meant for low mounting and some for high.
I'm hoping that maybe just a good soak and maybe some forced air will clean it out enough to get it working as it should.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
There have been some threads started about this problem and only one came back to say what was done to remedy and that one had a temporary solution, but in the end ended up getting one off ebay. Anyone ever had to fix the spring on a shuttle bobbin winder?? The temporary solution was similar to the one on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADqOgeTGrAQ In the comments below the video there was this response:
@luismaya7073
1 year ago
I have the same problem with the spring that holds the bobbin in place. I figure i will have to buy another bobbin winder i tried to take the one i have apart and did. My spring is broken inside, will get another one. So to let you know that to take it apart, on the left part of the knob you will see the shaft inside the knob, use a punch and hit it out. Try not to damage anything. I tried to see if it unscrewed some how and it doesnt so i did some damge to mine but i knew i was going to any ways. This is all an fyi..... I have a picture to share if anyone wants one..
1 year ago
I have the same problem with the spring that holds the bobbin in place. I figure i will have to buy another bobbin winder i tried to take the one i have apart and did. My spring is broken inside, will get another one. So to let you know that to take it apart, on the left part of the knob you will see the shaft inside the knob, use a punch and hit it out. Try not to damage anything. I tried to see if it unscrewed some how and it doesnt so i did some damge to mine but i knew i was going to any ways. This is all an fyi..... I have a picture to share if anyone wants one..
It looks like KenZ that posted Help needed with Singer 127 bobbin winder may have gotten his fixed even though the thread goes on about some other things about bobbin winders and not specifically the spring for holding the bobbin in place. He did post a picture of the machine in at his thread Singer 127 Sphinx in new home but does not mention how got bobbin winder to work. Maybe it was just crud that got soaked out.
For the three QB links mentioned above, the opening posters have not been on QB for at least a few years.
I would caution that if you do buy another bobbin winder (as csharp did) that you make sure it is the same. From the parts list there were several different bobbin winders for the long shuttle machines. Some were meant for treadle machines and some for hand crank machines. Some were meant for low mounting and some for high.
I'm hoping that maybe just a good soak and maybe some forced air will clean it out enough to get it working as it should.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
07-23-2023, 08:59 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 135
My known good bobbins measure 1.296", end to end. They fit tightly into the low bobbin winder and the machine sews with them.
I looked at the bobbin winder while I was back in there. One end or the other MUST screw on. If all else fails, I'd be inclined to pad both ends with some leather, clamp them in vice grips and ... gently ... try to unscrew, bearing in mind that they could be left hand threads.
In rehabbing guns, many people swear by a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid and soaking for a day to weeks to break frozen metal things apart. It needs to be in a sealed container because the acetone evaporates. I bet it'll eat every trace of paint.
There's a variant called "Ed's Red" which adds a 3rd ingredient. If interested, an internet search should turn the formula up.
I looked at the bobbin winder while I was back in there. One end or the other MUST screw on. If all else fails, I'd be inclined to pad both ends with some leather, clamp them in vice grips and ... gently ... try to unscrew, bearing in mind that they could be left hand threads.
In rehabbing guns, many people swear by a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid and soaking for a day to weeks to break frozen metal things apart. It needs to be in a sealed container because the acetone evaporates. I bet it'll eat every trace of paint.
There's a variant called "Ed's Red" which adds a 3rd ingredient. If interested, an internet search should turn the formula up.
07-23-2023, 10:53 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,672
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
07-23-2023, 03:34 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 135
According to luismaya7073 "...I tried to see if it unscrewed some how and it doesnt... " I tried some quick searches to try to find some other places to see if could find some more about, but was unsuccessful.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
07-24-2023, 05:28 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,019
quote: "Yeah, I've seen that said about alcohol but haven't had that particular problem. I think that old japanning is pretty tough stuff."
More specifically, alcohol is a solvent for shellac. Shellac is the clear coat (Japanning) on the old black machines. Alcohol will remove the the clear coat on a black machine. Later machines (and modern machines) that are painted other colors do not have a shellac clear coat. You can refer to Glenn's post on repairing the clear coat on black machines at the top of this forum for further information.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac
bkay
More specifically, alcohol is a solvent for shellac. Shellac is the clear coat (Japanning) on the old black machines. Alcohol will remove the the clear coat on a black machine. Later machines (and modern machines) that are painted other colors do not have a shellac clear coat. You can refer to Glenn's post on repairing the clear coat on black machines at the top of this forum for further information.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac
bkay
07-24-2023, 08:13 AM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 135
Japanning is the black stuff under the shellac. Note that I didn't recommend bathing the machine in rubbing alcohol - I said some spill over won't hurt the japanning. By this point in time, any shellac is dried out drek anyway.
Japanning on metal is (in Singers case) a baked on finish usually made with asphaltum, turpentine, lamp black and some other stuff I can't remember. I think I saw an old Singer video where they were baking the coating on in multiple coats. Japanning was used extensively on industrial equipment exactly because of it's durability.
Frankly, I think the rubbing alcohol (45 to 65% water anyway) would evaporate too quickly to do any damage, even in larger quantities. 190 proof Everclear, on the other hand might be just the ticket to remove that dried out old shellac ... I think some experimentation is on the horizon.
Japanning on metal is (in Singers case) a baked on finish usually made with asphaltum, turpentine, lamp black and some other stuff I can't remember. I think I saw an old Singer video where they were baking the coating on in multiple coats. Japanning was used extensively on industrial equipment exactly because of it's durability.
Frankly, I think the rubbing alcohol (45 to 65% water anyway) would evaporate too quickly to do any damage, even in larger quantities. 190 proof Everclear, on the other hand might be just the ticket to remove that dried out old shellac ... I think some experimentation is on the horizon.
