How old before it's vintage?
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
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How old before it's vintage?
Hi, all! I was just given a Swedish-made Viking/Husqvarna 210 Sew Easy. I believe it's about 20 years old, hence the title! The machine is clean as a whistle and sews beautiful straight and zig-zag stitches, but it's rather noisy. The manual says not to lubricate the machine.
So - what's everyones' feeling - do I go ahead and try to open it up and lubricate, or do I leave it alone and sew on it until it dies? Alternatively, I could take it in for a tune-up with the OSMG, but that would cost money and I'm cheap! Do any of you have this model? What do you think of it? It's nice and light, which is a plus for classes.
Thank you!
So - what's everyones' feeling - do I go ahead and try to open it up and lubricate, or do I leave it alone and sew on it until it dies? Alternatively, I could take it in for a tune-up with the OSMG, but that would cost money and I'm cheap! Do any of you have this model? What do you think of it? It's nice and light, which is a plus for classes.
Thank you!
#2
Vintage is generally accepted to be 25 years old. Most modern machines are made of plastic impregnated with oil. The plastic/oil eventually stops lubricating and you're then expected to throw the machine away and buy a new one.
I have fixed a machine like that, though: A 1980s Janome. A friend sort of tricked me into looking at it. I opened it up and saw the problem (reverse lever stuck). Got the oil out and partner informed me that Janomes should never be lubricated (apparently it's in the manual). I ignored the advice and the machine was working five minutes later.
So it's up to you but I would do it, especially if I were cheap. After that I'd sell it because I hate plastic sewing machines
I have fixed a machine like that, though: A 1980s Janome. A friend sort of tricked me into looking at it. I opened it up and saw the problem (reverse lever stuck). Got the oil out and partner informed me that Janomes should never be lubricated (apparently it's in the manual). I ignored the advice and the machine was working five minutes later.
So it's up to you but I would do it, especially if I were cheap. After that I'd sell it because I hate plastic sewing machines
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 673
Tri-Flow is a synthetic oil that I've had good results using for supposedly no-lube machines; it quieted them down a lot. (I think it contains Teflon in tiny particulate form). Use the tube on the nozzle so you can direct the spray accurately, away from electrical components.
Last edited by Manalto; 11-20-2015 at 05:43 AM.
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
I think the case of no-oil machines is only because of the delicate electronic parts, they are susceptible to oil spill. I'm not sure what they do to make them lubrication free; the first explanation I was given years ago was they use teflon embedded plastic, it's super slippery and doesn't need it. More recent info I have found is that new machines store the lubrication in the joints and hinges, as a reservoir. When the parts are in motion the oil will dispence around the parts, and return to it's place when the machine rests. These joints need a refill now and then and that's where an anual service comes in. Noone really dares to mess with a brand new Bernina 770 or a Husqvarna Ruby, but I doubt lower to medium priced machines have those fancy reservoir joints and hinges (I'm not really sure what they call them). The makers give us very little information, everything is very limited to a few phrases in a manual.
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Since it's on your hands and in working order don't disregard it completely. Ciruit boards can last a long time, if it's a nice machine in other respects I would at least try to do a bit of DIY maintanance; cleaning, and being extra careful with the oiling, but it probably needs some. If you need a light weight portable machine, it might be up to the job and worth the effort. Just remember that when parts start to fail it's probably not worth hunting down replacement parts.
#9
All the info here fits with what I know and have heard, especially about avoiding oiling the electronics and throwing a plastic machine away when it breaks. I'd also like to add that in an article written by a sewing machine repair guy he specifically said that manufaturers tell owners not to oil their machines because many owners would oil everything including the belts, and since belts work by friction few things work more poorly than an oiled machine belt. I've also never heard of sewing machine oil damaging plastic or nylon gears.
Maybe you could use it in it's great functioning but noisy condition until it acts up then carefully oil it to see if you can get it working again?
Maybe you could use it in it's great functioning but noisy condition until it acts up then carefully oil it to see if you can get it working again?
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Reminds me of that Chrysler made Kenmore where the manual says not to oil it. I think that was the first one where the manufacturer/seller intended for the machine to stop running eventually.
I'd open it up and clean and oil it like normal. What do you have to lose?
Rodney
I'd open it up and clean and oil it like normal. What do you have to lose?
Rodney
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