miriam

I did a little long distance consulting. So that everybody can benefit. Here is the tail end of putting a 401 tension back together. I couldn't find the info in a manual for her so I shot some pretty awful pics of one I pulled off a machine.
First put the disks etc back on per info in the manual.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]466626[/ATTACH]
Then put the little screw thing with the lip on it - screw it down about even with the post:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]466627[/ATTACH]
Then put the little numbered thingy on:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]466628[/ATTACH]
Then put the other two parts on and tighten down the little screw you almost lost:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]466629[/ATTACH]

Jeanette Frantz

Miriam,

I had the same problem with my National Two Spool! We used SM oil, a little "gentle" heat and a few "gentle" taps. We just kept working on it until it finally came off! Sometimes, one just settles for calling the machine a few choice words to relieve the tension! LOL!

Jeanette

Rodney

I just monkeyed with the Wards a bit more. It's the knob. I gave the tapered pin a few gentle taps on the end and it moves freely. Also when I do finally get it apart I'm going to have to repair the joint where the linkage attaches to the knob's shaft. The little arm on the shaft itself is loose. The joint where the arm is attached to the end of the shaft is pressed and peened together and it is no longer tight, the arm spins on the shaft. No big deal, I can fix that when things are apart. The little bugger is frustrating though. Especially when being able to drop the feed dogs is one of the reasons I bought the machine. Even if I did check it first I would have bought it. The key is going to be getting the set screw off the knob. When that happens the rest will get easy. I just don't want to damage the knob and have to hunt down a new one.
Rodney

Rodney

Looks like I'm done being gentle with the Wards machine. I ground down a screwdriver bit for the set screw on the knob and all I managed to do was ruin the bit and round off the set screw. I also tried my big channel lock pliers and some leather on the knob and it didn't even wiggle. Next will be some careful drilling of the set screw. I just hope I can keep it centered so i don't screw up the knob. If I can get the knob off the shaft, the shaft should come out the bottom of the base.
I'm still trying to save the knob. Worst case is it gets an aftermarket replacement.
Rodney

Rodney

Got it. That knob was rusted on SOLID! I drilled the set screw out then pried the knob off. Fortunately I did very little damage to the knob in the process. I knocked a little plating off but it's barely noticeable. After the knob was off I used a hammer and punch to move the shaft back and forth in it's hole to break up the rust and get it moving again. The shaft was so stuck that I had to tap it hard enough to mushroom the end a little before things finally freed up. I tapped it up and down in place several times then put the pliers on the shaft and started raising and lowering the feed dogs. There's a linkage blocking me from taking the shaft completely out to clean it thoroughly and I don't want to take things that far apart so this will have to do. All that's left is to drill and tap the knob for a new set screw and re-install it. The new set screw will use an Allen wrench so I won't have to worry about messing up the slot again. Things still move stiffly but given a little time and some more oil they will loosen up again.
They don't build things like they used to. The feed dog knob is solid metal. If it was a modern knob it would have destroyed in the process of getting it off.
It's weird. The underside of the machine is spotless. That's the only actual rust I've found on the entire machine and it was rusted solid.
Rodney

SteveH

Folks on this board should look into rawhide hammers. Preferable the kind with metal head with rawhide faces... Almost impossible to damage the metal, but it thumps with force all the same.

miriam

I think there might be one in the leather working stuff somewhere in the black hole I mean in the garage...

SteveH

I got mine from Enco

ThayerRags

I serviced up a Nelco Zigzag machine yesterday. The machine has a fairly high sentimental value, is well used, and is somewhat unique. It was stuck in zigzag mode that was easy to overcome, but what is unique about it is the way that the reverse or backtack was and has to be activated.

The reverse button is broken off inside of the machine, and has to be activated by a slender finger or some kind of tool that is the same or smaller diameter as the missing button. Apparently, the previous owner used the machine for some time in this condition, so it’s going to stay that way.

Maybe the previous owner was part of the "Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without!" generation?

CD in Oklahoma

oldsewnsew

and partly to finally face how out of control this obsession has actually gotten! I intend to try to make a legit business out of the whole thing by selling some of the no longer desirables at 2 quilt shows this summer. I may even donate an old 99 to one of them for a fundraiser drawing.
But instead, I was up til 2:00 wrestling with a National, (MW, Eldredge, take your pick) model J, or N-50 or whatever else it goes by. They are interesting creatures, but they have some weakspots. They are heavy, but not cast iron. They are made of some type of pot metal. And they have 2 connector rods going from bottom to top thru the pillar. They are made of die-cast, probably zinc pot metal also. They also don't have anything other than luck holding their bearing ends on their pivot points. All in all not the best.
So it wouldn't turn well at all by hand, despite the seller saying that " I plugged it in and it runs but since I don't sew that's all I can tell you". That should be enough of a heads up by now. It didn't want to turn easily past a couple points even after considerable oiling. What took me too long to realize was that the needle clamp was actually hitting the underside of the boss above it. Well this morning it seemed to turn much easier so I plugged it in and hit the pedal. big mistake...BANG! Broke the upper end off one of the connecting rods. I'm NOT going to buy another one in hopes that I'll find good parts. But I may buy another one and be more careful. I DO intend to make 2 better connecting rods for it and repair it. But it will have to wait til later.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]469322[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]469323[/ATTACH] To give a sense of proportion, and my hands are not that large, in case you've yet to see one up close.
Seller pic...[ATTACH=CONFIG]469324[/ATTACH] Supposed to take KK1221 needles, anyone know how long those are? I'll have to lower the needlebar, it will work with a 20x1 (sort of, in self destruct mode) as is. And it didn't come with a bobbin, but about anything other than a White will fit in the winder and bobbin case. The winder is interesting, in that is on the end of the motor shaft. If the motor self destructs, ummm....By the time I get through with this thing, I might as well paint it and make it obvious that it's not original. Anyone have guidance on what the bobbin is that's supposed to be in it? Lastly, it is sort of "Low Shank" on that foot, but some won't fit, as it's more squared off. Update, that little cardboard box of Greist marked "attachments" will fit fine. [ATTACH=CONFIG]469325[/ATTACH]