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Thread: Need some help with 401 restoring

  1. #26
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    yeah what I tried to say - the other end too - if you do one do them both - some kinds of dried up goo take solvent - most often T-F will do the job
    I bought a T&S over the weekend - it did not sew. To make it work I put T-F in those two places and turned the needle around. Real nice machine for a T&S - I figured I was getting a parts machine and a really coooooool table. Of course I spent the day going over it making sure everything is ok. I think this is the first T&S I have ever liked. It is mostly all metal - just a few plastic parts but nothing critical - I should see if it does chain stitching.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  2. #27
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    Miriam, did you get the one with the funny spring holding the bobbin place. That's my problem with the one here. It's a chainstitch convertible, too.

  3. #28
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishrose View Post
    Miriam, did you get the one with the funny spring holding the bobbin place. That's my problem with the one here. It's a chainstitch convertible, too.
    Do you need a part? I have one with the whole insides melted out but that might be good.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  4. #29
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    The machine is at my church so I don't have it here, but it does seem like that part needs to be replaced. I really want a slant needle there so I don't have to transport one when we do our mission sewing. Yes, I need the part with the spring. No hurry. I know it may be buried.

  5. #30
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishrose View Post
    The machine is at my church so I don't have it here, but it does seem like that part needs to be replaced. I really want a slant needle there so I don't have to transport one when we do our mission sewing. Yes, I need the part with the spring. No hurry. I know it may be buried.
    I wonder how to get it out
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  6. #31
    Super Member irishrose's Avatar
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    I'll try to pick it up on Thursday. I have a feeling I'll be snowed in tomorrow.

  7. #32
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    It might be next week before I get in there
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  8. #33
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    Hi guys and gals, I'm not having any luck getting those discs loose! It's now 2 weeks soaking in the Hoppe's (on cotton pads) - stitch width lever still won't go to the left. Nothing seems to be loosening up. Would I ruin something to use a pair of pliers, carefullly, on the center post (with the screwdriver notch in it)??

  9. #34
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    On my machine, the needlebar moves freely and back, so the gum-up is within/under the discs.
    Judith

  10. #35
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    I forget, you have to push in or pull out on the knobs as you turn them to get them to move - check your manual. I have a parts machine someone took a hammer to to get it to move. I would not use pliers or a hammer - bent parts will not work at all ever again. Those have very close tolerances. You may need to drape the machine, spray a little brake cleaner into a can then dab some on the post with a natural brush or q-tip - that stuff will eat your paint, do in you liver if you breathe the fumes and shrivel up any plastic in sight but it should vaporize the dried on oil instantly.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  11. #36
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    Yes, I know to push/pull the knobs, and they do move - one on right will go to all positions, beige one will go to "G" but no further. Red lever will go to the right, but not the left. Thanks for the help - my daughter will have the brake cleaner (in fact, she suggested it). I know I must be patient, but I sure would like to use this!

  12. #37
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Miriam,

    Hoppe's #9 is not that bad. Been using it for decades. It's mostly kerosene. It will not eat cured paint and it will not curl plastic. Many guns parts are made from plastic too.

    Cowbelle,

    To change the cam settings you have to PUSH IN on the outer knob and PULL OUT on the inner knob.
    DO NOT FORCE THEM. They will only move one at a time. You have to set one, then the other. You can't move them both at once. If one control knob isn't completely set, the other will bind when you try to set it.
    If they are sticking put the Hoppe's on the two posts to the left of the cam stack, they are where things hang up most of the time. Each post has notches in it and spring loaded catches that lock into each notch. These need lubed and cleaned to move freely. Get in there with tooth brushes or something similar and clean all the notches out.
    You need to get that cam stack out of there too. That will help with the cleaning.
    (( I just checked our 401 to be sure of what I was posting and the controls are sticking. Gotta lube it a bit now.))
    Time to quit being timid with the solvent, get it in there and keep wiggling and moving things.

    Joe

  13. #38
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    Thanks for the answer, Joe. Yes, I do know to push/pull the knobs to move them - they just won't move freely and completely. I've kept those posts soaked all week with the Hoppe's - will start working it all a bit more forcefully.

  14. #39
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    Hooray!! Got the red lever freed up!! Progress at last - with heat and toothbrush/Hoppe's. Will keep working on the rest!

  15. #40
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    And more progress - got the cams out!! Did use a bit of pressure with pliers, and some liquid wrench. Have mopped all that up and will keep working on it, Yeaaaaa1

  16. #41
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    Do I need to take the cam stack apart? I see two screw holding them together - they have been soaked with the Hoppe's all week.
    Judith

  17. #42
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    You do not have to take it apart but it is easier to clean the gears under it and the stack itself.

    I put a little T-F on the stitch selector posts then move them up and down quite a few times - seems like they are greedy for oil and need to be moved a lot. Anything that moves will need T-F - just a dot is all you need though.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  18. #43
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    Thanks, Miriam - it didn't seem like they should come apart, but I thought I'd ask. It is all very clean now - will put it back together and start trying to re-assemble the top tension thingy.

  19. #44
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miriam View Post
    those are tricky to clean - I think we have about covered it in past posts - up at the top right is a search in the black bar above the turquoise is a search feature
    I'M SORRY - I JUST TRIED TO FIND THE VERY SAME INFORMATION THIS MORNING AND COULD NOT GET ANYTHING TO COME UP EITHER - I'm thinking there are way too many topics on here these days - makes it hard to find important information - we may need to put some info on this in a sticky note or something.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  20. #45
    Super Member Stitchnripper's Avatar
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    Most helpful Miriam. Thanks for directing me here. Will try and get tri flow today at the bicycle shop up the street.

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