Need some help with 401 restoring
#33
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 46
Hi guys and gals, I'm not having any luck getting those discs loose! It's now 2 weeks soaking in the Hoppe's (on cotton pads) - stitch width lever still won't go to the left. Nothing seems to be loosening up. Would I ruin something to use a pair of pliers, carefullly, on the center post (with the screwdriver notch in it)??
#35
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
I forget, you have to push in or pull out on the knobs as you turn them to get them to move - check your manual. I have a parts machine someone took a hammer to to get it to move. I would not use pliers or a hammer - bent parts will not work at all ever again. Those have very close tolerances. You may need to drape the machine, spray a little brake cleaner into a can then dab some on the post with a natural brush or q-tip - that stuff will eat your paint, do in you liver if you breathe the fumes and shrivel up any plastic in sight but it should vaporize the dried on oil instantly.
#36
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 46
Yes, I know to push/pull the knobs, and they do move - one on right will go to all positions, beige one will go to "G" but no further. Red lever will go to the right, but not the left. Thanks for the help - my daughter will have the brake cleaner (in fact, she suggested it). I know I must be patient, but I sure would like to use this!
#37
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Miriam,
Hoppe's #9 is not that bad. Been using it for decades. It's mostly kerosene. It will not eat cured paint and it will not curl plastic. Many guns parts are made from plastic too.
Cowbelle,
To change the cam settings you have to PUSH IN on the outer knob and PULL OUT on the inner knob.
DO NOT FORCE THEM. They will only move one at a time. You have to set one, then the other. You can't move them both at once. If one control knob isn't completely set, the other will bind when you try to set it.
If they are sticking put the Hoppe's on the two posts to the left of the cam stack, they are where things hang up most of the time. Each post has notches in it and spring loaded catches that lock into each notch. These need lubed and cleaned to move freely. Get in there with tooth brushes or something similar and clean all the notches out.
You need to get that cam stack out of there too. That will help with the cleaning.
(( I just checked our 401 to be sure of what I was posting and the controls are sticking. Gotta lube it a bit now.))
Time to quit being timid with the solvent, get it in there and keep wiggling and moving things.
Joe
Hoppe's #9 is not that bad. Been using it for decades. It's mostly kerosene. It will not eat cured paint and it will not curl plastic. Many guns parts are made from plastic too.
Cowbelle,
To change the cam settings you have to PUSH IN on the outer knob and PULL OUT on the inner knob.
DO NOT FORCE THEM. They will only move one at a time. You have to set one, then the other. You can't move them both at once. If one control knob isn't completely set, the other will bind when you try to set it.
If they are sticking put the Hoppe's on the two posts to the left of the cam stack, they are where things hang up most of the time. Each post has notches in it and spring loaded catches that lock into each notch. These need lubed and cleaned to move freely. Get in there with tooth brushes or something similar and clean all the notches out.
You need to get that cam stack out of there too. That will help with the cleaning.
(( I just checked our 401 to be sure of what I was posting and the controls are sticking. Gotta lube it a bit now.))
Time to quit being timid with the solvent, get it in there and keep wiggling and moving things.
Joe
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 46
Thanks for the answer, Joe. Yes, I do know to push/pull the knobs to move them - they just won't move freely and completely. I've kept those posts soaked all week with the Hoppe's - will start working it all a bit more forcefully.
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