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Thread: Pfaff 130

  1. #1
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Pfaff 130

    I have a 362, 332, 1222 and a 1479. I saw this one on CL for a long time and the price kept dropping, so I decided to guy it. Most of my Pfaffs have needed a lot of work and this one is no exception. But, for $20 I think it's worth the effort. No bobbin case, but I expected that. Unfortunately, it doesn't have its original motor and has some blue, clone's motor:< I would imagine this motor is pretty undersized for the capability of the machine. It was locked up tight with about a bobbin's worth of thread wrapped around the hook assembly. Dry as a bone, but only a small bit of rust and both cleated belts are in decent shape. I think I'm going to have to work at this one for a while! The finish is pretty crazed and cracked and it has had a lot of use. I bet it could tell some good stories.
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  2. #2
    Junior Member makitmama's Avatar
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    poor thing! It will be better living with you.
    Cil



    I'm a Queen.... at least my pantyhose say I am!


    (proud caretaker of a magenta 221, purple 222, assorted 66's, a 301, a pink Atlas and Monarch, and Granny's 201-2.

  3. #3
    Super Member Daylesewblessed's Avatar
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    Congratulations! You will enjoy getting her up to speed!

  4. #4
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    Nice machine and a super nice price. They are very desirable if you can get it running.

  5. #5
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    It looks much better after about 4 hours of work. It's still a bit tight and needs some more work. I also need to look into another motor. The one on it is will be too puny. The dials are a bit locked up, as is usual, so I'm working on those too. The beast is probably the heaviest machine I have.

  6. #6
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    Does the needle "home left" or can you set it for l-c-r? Someone recently reported that the needle on a 130 homes left and that is not how I recall my 130 to have been made. I might be wrong because my forgettery is better than my memory! LOL!

  7. #7
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wintersewer View Post
    Does the needle "home left" or can you set it for l-c-r? Someone recently reported that the needle on a 130 homes left and that is not how I recall my 130 to have been made. I might be wrong because my forgettery is better than my memory! LOL!
    It has 3 needle positions, L, C, R. The person who says that probably doesn't know how to change it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member vanginney's Avatar
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    I love Pfaff. My 85 year old mom in Holland and her mom both had pfaffs. They had to pay a dime a week - for them in the 1930s.

  9. #9
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    That's what I thought.

    It has 3 needle positions, L, C, R. The person who says that probably doesn't know how to change it.

  10. #10
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    That's a great price! They showw these machines on industrial tables with clutch motors. That would definitely give you more power. Here's a link http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/art/3384965390.htm
    Just got a Pfaff 30 and the paint looks very similiar. I tried using the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and it came out much better but within a day or two lots of the cloudiness came back. Will try the compound again and then use the Ultimate Quik Wax to see if it must be protected to stay looking black. Hope you have as much fun as I did! Congrads on the new project!

    Lisa

  11. #11
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    I got it working sweeeeeet! Took me about 8 hours of work total, but even with the piddly motor it has on it, it seems like a great machine. I'm going to give it a FMQing work out and see if I like it.

  12. #12
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtpockets1 View Post
    That's a great price! They showw these machines on industrial tables with clutch motors. That would definitely give you more power. Here's a link http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/art/3384965390.htm
    Just got a Pfaff 30 and the paint looks very similiar. I tried using the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and it came out much better but within a day or two lots of the cloudiness came back. Will try the compound again and then use the Ultimate Quik Wax to see if it must be protected to stay looking black. Hope you have as much fun as I did! Congrads on the new project!

    Lisa
    Lisa, there's a tutorial on how to redo the shellac. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5715116 Maybe that's something you're up to? Mine looks much better with just a cleaning and oiling. I don't know if I'll go that route, as I still have to refinish the table it's in. I think I will keep the table. I typically don't want them and try to make my machines portable. But, this beast will never be a portable!

  13. #13
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    Candace,
    I will check that out and see. I know I can't really do too much damage!!!! Thanks for the link. Make sure we get pictures when you are done.

    Lisa

  14. #14
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Here it is all cleaned up and running. Now on to the cabinet...
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    Super Member Charlee's Avatar
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    Nice job Candace!! I was keeping my eyes open for one of these, no real luck yet tho...have seen a couple on Craig's list, but they wanted $1000!
    One day, you'll only be a memory for some people. Do your best to be a good one.

    http://charleeturner.blogspot.com

  16. #16
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Well, it sews sooo smoothly. Vintage Pfaffs really are on a premier level. I'm so used to the typical black, vintage Singers and Pfaffs are just a level above. I did try some FMQing with it and need to try a few more darning feet. So far, it's not my best FMQing Pfaff, for sure, but before I cross it out I want to try a few more set-ups of feet and pressure on the foot.

  17. #17
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    I restore old machines and I picked up a Pfaff 130 a few weeks ago that was in poor shape as was the cabinet. I couldn't get the stitch width to free up. Not the knob, but the internal part that slides in the channel. I kept oiling it and letting it set and working it in. This morning it was still sticking but not as much so I threw a motor on it and ran it. I was hoping to get it to free up. It is still sticking a little with the width set to the widest setting. Binding actually. Have I missed something? Here is a picture of my poor gal as I got her home. Oh, and I HATE Tape!!!
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    I have cleaned her up a bit but I have the same problem with the finish clouding up on me too. I'm getting close to figuring that out though.
    ~Grant~

  18. #18
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    The finish on yours looks to be in better condition than mine and seem to have a bit better decals too. And mine cleaned up great, so just keep at it. I worked on mine for a few days and it was really bound up. I resorted to squirting some liquid wrench inside the machine, in the dial area as well. Though, yours looks like it still needs cleaning around the dials. All that dried, gummy residue needs to come off. Just make sure you clean up any spills on the paint from the liquid wrench and don't get it on the belts. It worked immediately for me. I could hear a groaning, squealing sound where it was binding up(I could never pinpoint the area and the Triflow method wasn't working) and then it just took off and sewed smoooooth. I worked on a sewing project with it yesterday and it did a great job.

  19. #19
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Thank you Candace. I have a Pfaff 229 and a 230 and they are great machines. I can't get the stitch width knob off of it though. I took out the little set screw at the bottom but it won't budge. I chipped it trying to get it off. Are they different from the 229 and 230? Also, there was a small spring that was behind the set screw. I have to think that is part of the problem. Like there is still a piece in there or something. I can't think of why it would be in there. But it is difficult to see up in there and it is such a small hole. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
    ~G~

  20. #20
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    You shouldn't mess with the stitch width knob unless it's a last resort. They're old and crack easily. My 332 knob has been glued together in several areas( I didn't do it or break it) but shows the knobs have become a bit brittle with age. You shouldn't have to remove the knob, you just remove the plate from the back of the machine and clean it from behind. And I also applied the liquid wrench that way. Try going through the back of the machine. Let me know how that works:>
    Last edited by Candace; 12-18-2012 at 10:44 AM.

  21. #21
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Actually, it is Bakelite. It is more brittle than plastic. I got the knob off. I put a screwdriver in the slot the knob goes on to and twisted the knob back and forth and wiggled it off. It took some doing though. It was really on there. It was seized right to the shaft. I'm glad I did too. The spring I mentioned earlier fell out of a hole in the back of the knob. I also have to get to that side of the mechanism. It is really binding up. Something is wrong in there.
    ~G~

  22. #22
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Actually, it is Bakelite. It is more brittle than plastic.
    ~G~
    I know. That's what I'm saying. The knobs don't necessarily have to be removed as the liquid wrench would get into the crevice and release any stuck parts. I have learned to not touch any of the Pfaff knobs or handles as odds are they can and do break. When I turn any of them during use, I always turn the body of the knob and stay away from the handles as they typically show signs of cracking or are broken completely off on some machines.

  23. #23
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    I was able to get it to FMQ effectively. I'm not sure it will be used for that much as I do have other machines I prefer for it, but an original Pfaff darning foot and completely releasing all the foot pressure did the trick. On a side note, the machine was missing its bobbin case and although I have other vintage Pfaffs to borrow from, I prefer each machine have its own case. I ordered a repro case and it's TERRIBLE. It rattles and creates a tension headache. It's visually such a downgrade from the originals with tool marks on it, some bumps in the metal...not good at all. I will keep it as it may do ok. in a different machine or if I ever lose a screw from one of mine...but the 130 hated it. I put the vintage bobbin case back in and smooth as silk again.

  24. #24
    Super Member BoJangles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Candace View Post
    I was able to get it to FMQ effectively. I'm not sure it will be used for that much as I do have other machines I prefer for it, but an original Pfaff darning foot and completely releasing all the foot pressure did the trick. On a side note, the machine was missing its bobbin case and although I have other vintage Pfaffs to borrow from, I prefer each machine have its own case. I ordered a repro case and it's TERRIBLE. It rattles and creates a tension headache. It's visually such a downgrade from the originals with tool marks on it, some bumps in the metal...not good at all. I will keep it as it may do ok. in a different machine or if I ever lose a screw from one of mine...but the 130 hated it. I put the vintage bobbin case back in and smooth as silk again.
    Candace is your bobbin case a Japanese case or a made in China case? I heard the ones made in Japan are a better quality. I also had to buy another bobbin case for my 360 - same case as the 130 - but, I have not tried the case yet to see how well it works! Now I am curious! My case was made in Japan.

    Nancy

  25. #25
    Super Member Candace's Avatar
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    Nancy, I don't know, but by the looks of it I'd wager China. It's a piece of junk. Oddly, there's a washer kind of thing in it that none of my other vintage bobbin cases have. Let me know if yours works well and I may bite the bullet and buy one from your source. It amazing how much difference a quality bobbin case makes!

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