Going cross-eyed - Antique Singer
 

So the fiancé did it again and boy howdy, did he do it. Brief backstory...

He's in Theo again this week, calls me up out of the blue to say he just scored me an Antique Singer. I tell him to shoot me a picture of the badge, it took me twenty minutes to guide him to it, but he gets it done and I get the pictures.

Beautiful machine, but having a dickens of a time finding much about it. ISMACS isn't that helpful, other than to tell me when it was manufactured, used another website to find out where, seems like they're more geared for the Featherweights. Badge number is AE740803, I contacted Singer for help, got the usual, 'here's your case number, we'll get back to you'. Did that on Friday. Singer's website does not have a manual for this machine. She was born November 4th, 1937 in Elizabethport, New Jersey.

Turning the handwheel, it still has gorgeous motion, no squeaks, thumps or bumps. Feed dogs still move, it's missing a bobbin plate, spool pin, the rubber rings on the bobbin winder and the electrical cords going to the motor has significant dry rot. Minor rust and it looks like it might be in the original cabinet, but it's been painted. He's on his way home now, I'll post pictures when he gets home and get her in the house. It's been raining off and on, I told him he had better keep her dry or he's sleeping in the dog pen tonight, lol.

I know that Singer really didn't change much on the body of the machine for a while, when I did an original search for my old girl, I confused her at first for a 1926 model. My question is that since the body didn't change much, surely the internal mechanisms didn't change, either, would it be possible to find a manual for a different model, close to the same age and use that for general use? It's going to be a long time before I get her running right, I'd just like to have a diagram or something on how to clean and oil her, maybe how to thread it. I'd like to send a small swatch through her just to see if there are going to be any other issues pop up.

The model number should be on the plate on the front of the machine near the stitch length regulator. What you posted is the serial number which from what I can see, is a serial number of an industrial machine.

As far as domestic machines are concerned the most common machines are the models 15 and 66. The internal mechanisms of the 15 and the 66 which were Singer's are rather different. That said, there's nothing to oiling the machine. If the machine turns heavily, Singer recommended using kerosene. Drip some into all the oiling holes and drip some onto all points where one piece of metal connects to, pivots against or turns on another piece of metal. Then oil all those same points. Use sewing machine oil only. No other kind. Lots of people like Triflow with teflon. I've never tried it. Don't use other stuff like 3-in-1 or WD40.

If there isn't a model number on the machine, it may be a very early machine such as a 27, 28 or perhaps a 128. Post a picture here and someone will know what you have.

Manuals can be downloaded from the Singer website. You don't open any case numbers, you just navigate to this link and put in your model number.

https://www.singer.com/en-ca/support

It appears that you have some type of 15 machine. Is the motor attached to the machine or use a belt? It could be a 15-91 (with potted motor) as seen at https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_mac...g-machine.html That link also has a manual for the 15-91. If it has a belt (external motor) more than likely it is a 15-90 and the manual for that can be found at https://www.manualslib.com/manual/18...ger-15-90.html There is a possibility that it could be another variety of 15, but those are the most common. Some comparisons can be found at http://needlebar.org/main/15chart/


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I have found that only the big red "Reply" button or "Quote" work to give me the paper clip icon to work for adding pictures.
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Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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I did get the model number, I'm just having a heck of a time finding a manual for it. The Singer website was the first place I went to and when I put in the model number, it gave me a 404 error and said I was lost. Did that four separate times using four separate web browsers and got the same error, that's when I emailed them with the model number and got the case number. I still haven't heard back from them about it, so I've been trolling the Internet to see if I could find something on my own, then came here when I couldn't find anything.

What's the model number of the machine, and could you post a picture of it?

Pictures are coming - he's in the driveway but it's raining and I'm not letting him bring that in until it dies off a little.

That is where I go and have been getting that error, too. That is why I gave the other links to manuals. I determined that 1.41's link has "/en-ca" between "com" and "/support" and that one you can put 15 in and get results.


Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Holy cow - this lady is gorgeous! I love these old Singers, they're so classy and elegant looking. Why can't they make machines like this anymore??

Looks like I need a new tension knob, too? Checked the stitch regulator switch, moving slow but no creaks or squeaks. I'm sure there's years upon years of old oil in her, can't believe Singer says to use kerosene to clean it out.

Model number is AE740803

Had to yell at the fiancé when he came in, it was still raining and between the truck and my front door is about 100 feet of what can only amount to quicksand, Ozarks mud and silt. One slip in my yard and you're going to find yourself on your back looking up into the trees. I'm still giving him the business, but they did a really good job wrapping her up in plastic and a blanket, not a drop of rain on her cabinet anywhere.

I've got more pictures if need be.

A beautiful Singer 15. I believe those are RAF decals. I may be wrong.

Manual is here:

https://www.singer.com/en-ca/search/support?title=15

Download the first one on the list.

All the parts you might need are easily available. Singer's most popular model. Made for over 100 years. Singer still makes them in India. Go to the Singer India site and you'll see them both motorized and in treadles.

This machine was copied by lots of manufacturers both in Europe and in Asia. Lots and lots of clones out there. You have a beautiful original.

One last point. It sort of looks like you have the original wiring on this machine. Look very closely at the wiring before you plug it in. The insulation may be deteriorated and the it may need new wiring. DON'T plug it in before checking the wires carefully to make sure that they're in good shape.

I just looked again at your pictures. The insulation on the wiring is deteriorated. It needs to be re-wired. An easy job but a bit fiddly.

The most difficult part is the light because Singer used circlips on the light fixture that are strong enough to tie down an ocean liner in a hurricane. Those are hard to get off and back on without having to use coarse language.

There is a bit of soldering to do on the connectors, but otherwise, it's an easy job to do. 20 feet of 18 gauge wire and you'll never need to use an extension cord. 18 gauge wire can be had at pretty much any hardware store for maybe 39 cents a foot. Use the one with the thinner insulation as the one with the thicker insulation won't fit into the power block. I think it's number SP-1 or something the No. 2 is the thick one that you don't want to use.

While there are many parts that will be similar or the same between several of the class 15 machines. Yours is different in many respects from the manual for your machine and the one 1.41 referred to.

A manual for your machine would be found at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...0203/index.htm I'm not sure where I found it, but I have a diagram that shows the needle threading directions for multiple machines. It indicates that the 15-86 (which is what you have) threads from left to right, as does the Smithsonian manual. It also shows the rectangular thread stitch regulator. The one that 1.41 referred to has the round plate stitch regulator and has reverse, which according to the needlebar site, yours does not have. The manual that 1.41 referred to also threads the other direction. Also the bobbin case's finger is going the opposite direction.

Yes, please rewire.

I'm fairly certain that your tension assembly is probably complete. It is like the one in the Smithsonian manual. Many of the older tension assemblies did not have numbers on them.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Agreed. This is the better manual.

It is also recommended to get a v-belt, rather the round stretchy belts. Probably a new bobbin winder tire would be in order, also.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

One of the first things I looked at was the wiring, I just knew there was going to be exposed wire so I'm glad that you said that, it just reaffirmed that she's not getting plugged in until that's done and out of the way. Thank you for clarifying about the insulation, I actually didn't think about the size of the insulation and probably would have gone with the bigger one. I actually don't see a long cord or a plug-in, so whoever had her before me didn't bring it with them, which bites.

I'm expecting there will be a lot of coarse language being flung around as I work on this, I told my fiancé that I want to be the only one to work on her, he's more than willing to let me do it, I think he's scared he'll make a mistake. Actually, I am, too, but this lets me get up close and personal with her and the more time I spend with her, the more I'll learn.

What would be the best way to clean the body? I don't want to use any harsh chemicals on it or mess up the decals. I have the manual downloaded and getting set up to print it off for some bedside reading.

Thank you for all your help, everyone. This is why I love this forum so much. Will post updates and more pictures once I get started working on her.

Please re-read my post https://www.quiltingboard.com/showpo...0&postcount=11

As for cleaning - it is generally recommended to just wipe with cotton balls or old t-shirts and sewing machine oil, so that you do not mess up the decals. There is also a sticky thread at https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintag...v-t167789.html about cleaning vintage machines.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

If you need to rewire the lamp, a snap ring pliers makes it much easier to remove and reinstall those hurricane circlips.

I have this model, dates to 1936. Love it. Easily sews through a variety of fabrics, with a beautiful balanced stitch.

So do I understand correctly that you don't have a foot pedal or the three pin connector that fits into the three pin socket?

OurWorkbench - yes, that's the manual I got. I had to save each page individually, but I have the manual. I found a physical one on Amazon for $25 that I'll get eventually, but for now a digital copy is fine.

1.41 - yes, I do not have the foot pedal or the three pin connector, however, it has the knee lever mechanism under the machine. I will take pictures of the underside and post them, I've actually never seen this kind of setup under a sewing machine and I'm confused as to what is going on with it. I was headed that direction earlier, but when my fiancé comes home after being gone for a few days, our two dogs lose their ever loving mind and they're bouncing and running around and it's downright dangerous to get on the floor without an escape plan, lol. Everyone is in bed passed out now, I can get under there without a problem but wanted to get on here first and see if you or OurWorkbench had anymore questions.

WIChix - I can already tell I'm going to love this machine once I get her cleaned, oiled and running properly. I learned on a Singer that's extremely similar to this one and I've always had a tender spot in my heart for Singer since. In my opinion, these Singer models are the Rolls Royce of sewing machines hands down. Now if I can ever get the fiancé to find a Featherweight around this timeframe, I'd have the sexy little black dress, LOL.

More Pictures....

1.41 - I was wrong - I do have the foot pedal but it has been attached to the cabinet and the knee lever mechanism pushes the button in, see the pictures. I still cannot find the three-pin connector, I talked to the fiancé just a bit ago and he was told that the connector was never with the machine when it was dropped off at the place where he got it. I also found out that this lady has only had three previous owners, grandmother, mother and daughter. Daughter suffered a catastrophic stroke about 20 years ago and just passed about six months ago. We know the owner of the shop that he got her from, he's going to get in touch with her this morning to see if we could track down the family, it was his understanding that up until the daughter had the stroke, she was using it, so I'm betting the connector was somehow misplaced, at least I'm hoping. The owner of the shop talked the family into selling the machine to her, they were about to take it for scrap. To think we almost lost this beautiful old lady just made my stomach lurch so hard, I had to sit down. I'm still reeling from that information. Also, if you look at the picture with the foot pedal, you'll see I scored an old cleaning brush, too, lol.

OurWorkbench - I watched a couple of those videos this morning, then stumbled onto another channel, Vintage Sewing Machine Garage - he was working on a model close to the same age as my girl and I subscribed to his channel. I've already got a shopping list of things to get, I've got enough sewing machine oil to at least get the cleaning started and I'm breaking into the dozens of makeup brushes I have to build a kit. I only use natural bristles in my makeup brushes, they'll be super soft and gentle.

It looks like you have a 15-87 since it has the solid hand wheel and a BR motor. It is quite possible that the controller can be removed and used as a foot controller. Sometimes when the button controller was sold with the cabinet that they shortened the cord, so it didn't have excess cord to wrap up and put away. Hopefully, WIChix will be better able to help. Since the controller looks to be connected directly to the plug?? maybe just a cord like https://www.amazon.com/Power-Cord-Si.../dp/B002JKP0X6 would work.

The metal pieces which can be taken off fairly easily and polished with metal polish. The bobbin winder can be kind of fiddly to get back together.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

I am going to be taking pictures later this afternoon with my DSLR camera, they'll be much better than the ones that I have now and I'll post them after I compress and resize them. Are there any specific pictures that I need to take to help more with the identification? Could I maybe track down the motor with that serial number or did they use the same motor over different models?

I don't know if these links will work, but they should be the same file that are parts list for the 15-86 & 15-87 from Superior Sewing. On page 7 of the pdf or page 13 of the manual it tells about the 15-87 having a BR motor. Yes, many machines used that motor. I have one machine that I think has the button controller with the knee controller, but fairly certain newer than your machine. I haven't touched it for a number of years.

https://www.google.com/url?esrc=s&q=...tvr0ywsgHFULBP
https://docplayer.net/102557080-Sing...ger-15-87.html

Follow the wire from the controller to the machine and see if it is connected behind the three pin plug. I have a 319 machine that the controller was wired to the motor or behind the plug. I put a cord that had another controller on it and I could use either to run the machine. That is why I think that you could use the Amazon one that I linked to. On page 11 of the pdf (19 of the manual shows one similar to what I used on the the 319. I can't remember which machine I got one like Amazon link ( I think it was for one of my slant shank machines.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Okay, that let's me know I'm on the right path, I downloaded a different manual last night that I thought was a parts manual and it's the same copy that you linked. I'll set up to print that one off later this evening. Going to need a three-ring binder for this beauty, I intend to document everything from start to finish and include pictures as I go along. I doubt any of my family will want her when I'm gone, with all the documentation of the work I put into her will give her next owners a good foot hold on what they've got.

I like the quite of the few that I got from "Superior Sewing" as most of them you can do a "Find" that will work. There have been some that it doesn't, but quite a few do. I like that I can look at a plate with a picture of some object and use "CTRL-F" and type a number in and have a search that will find it in the numerical list for what Singer called that part. It does not always work but sure is nice when it does.

Nice that you are doing some documentation on this machine. I wish some of the machines I have could talk.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

In addition to the foot pedal, it looks like you have a lint brush jammed in there.

The foot pedal will slide straight up out of the knee control mechanism. Just pull it straight up. Depending on the wiring set up, my guess as well is that the plug that OurWorkbench recommended might be all you need. That would mean you will have far less to fiddle with in changing over the wires. You will just have to change the wires in the machine and not the plug.

Bob Fowler has a video on YouTube about the wiring and adjustment of these machines and AndyTube has over 500 videos on sewing machine repairs including a series of very detailed videos on adjusting the foot pedal. InStitches also has a great video on how to take apart and adjust these foot pedals.

You might have to adjust the feed dog movement to match your new throat plate when you get it. If you get an original Singer it may work right off, if you get a new one you might have to do an adjustment. Those adjustments are easy, Bob Fowler has a detailed video on that.

She doesn't need a throat plate.
The parts lists the Shuttle Race Slide as part #15188, however it looks like part #15147 would work for a variety of class 15 machines. Some links to buy can be found at
https://www.singeronline.com/slideplate5.html
https://tomssewing.com/collections/m...e-singer-15147
https://www.amazon.com/Kunpeng-UNIVE...KQ7/ref=sr_1_2
Unfortunately, I couldn't find the single plate on Amazon for less than the two cost at that last link. At least not on the first couple of pages of my search.

I have read that sometimes the metal doesn't match like what is on the machine and occasionally the new will be a little thicker, but still functional.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Janey and John: Yes you are right the colour will not match. The vintage chrome plate has a yellow tint, the new ones have a bluish tint. To get the colours to match both a new throat plate and a bobbin plate will be needed, or alternatively, a vintage one can be had on the 'bay.

The new ones may not exactly match the feed-dog set up which is why I mentioned the possibility of having to make the adjustment to the rocker shafts to ensure that the feed-dogs will work with the replacement plate. Instead of making the adjustment in my case I was able to file one of the openings to ensure that the feed-dog didn't hit the plate. Adjusting the rocker shaft would have been easier.

I too have a 319 which is set up in a cabinet with a foot pedal attached to a knee controller, and like yours the foot pedal is wired into the back of the 3-prong connector. The 319 is a fabulous machine that doesn't get anywhere near the attention it deserves.

The point is that a new throat plate is not missing for this machine.
The part that is missing is the rectangular piece that slides to the left of the throat plate.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Nice machine. I have one just like that. And if IRC, there is something a bit different about it than most 15's like it, but I can't recall offhand what it is.

Per your post https://www.quiltingboard.com/7516303-post4.html I'm thinking that perhaps that the stitch length lever goes down for a longer stitch, which some of the 15K machines, of that era, go up to lengthen (per https://www.manualslib.com/manual/36...?page=7#manual). Also some 15s thread the needle opposite directions.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Yes RAF decals.

Okay, more pictures are coming - I'm resizing them now. I have a 14mp camera, so it's taking a country minute to get them done. I want to touch base on a couple of things.

OurWorkbench - I followed the foot pedal cord just as you suggested and it does go up behind the three-pin location. The cord for it is in pretty bad shape, as are the others that I didn't see when I posted the original pictures from my phone.

As much as I would like to have an original Shuttle Race Plate, I'll take what I can get when it comes time and then work on replacing that one with an original when or if it becomes available. I do like the option to adjust the feed dogs if need be if I have to settle for another throat plate, I didn't think that was an option.

I pulled that lint brush out when I was taking pictures and lo and behold, it says 'Singer'. I had a good laugh at that.

I did find some damage to the body when I was snapping pictures, looks like it's al the way down to the metal. I was stunned when I saw it, I'm not quite sure how to move forward with that. It's on the back, looks like where the light assembly rubbed up against the body, is there a particular reason why the light assembly is even in the back to begin with? It's odd to me for some reason.

Pics on their way, finishing up the last of the resizing now.

More Pictures
 

What would be the best way to work on that damage? I'm at a complete loss.

aThat wiring most definitely needs redone.

I can't remember if I taped the edges of a gouge in my sister's machine, but I remember using Testor's paint with multiple coats to build it up even with the bed. At this post https://www.quiltingboard.com/7353597-post2.html it recommends https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKEXVQ...ding=UTF8&th=1 to match the black. You can spray into the lid or other container and use a brush. You could then touch up the "E" with Testors Gloss Gold as Glenn said he uses that at https://www.quiltingboard.com/8541691-post710.html

A lot of machines have the light in the back. The ones that have it in the front are frequently the source of burned hands as the lights get really hot. Of course, now there are LED replacement bulbs, to prevent burning your hands.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

I was out of touch today, a few thoughts:

Duplicolor DE1635 is also a good match, spray into a disposable cup and painting. It does need to be layered on, multiple coats, dry time between.

0000 steel wool can be used to polish up the chromed stop motion clutch knob on the handwheel, it will safely remove most, if not all, of the surface rust. A metal polish will do nicely on the face plate and rear inspection plate, tho I have also used a baking soda paste, or even a degreaser dish detergent, hot soapy water, and a soft cloth.

I'm not sure about the orientation of the photo showing the pedal in its bracket, but I have some that remove up, and others that remove by pulling down. All my pedals have the longer cord, or at least reach the floor easily and position well.

New bobbin slide plates often have a brushed finish, giving it that blueish look, vs the original shiny chrome finish.

Regarding those goofy circlips on the lamp: the clips are formed and ends snipped at an angle. Getting off is a trick, but getting back on is trickier. What helped immensely was squaring off those angled snipped ends with a Dremel type tool. Doing so allows the snipped ends to seat on the snap ring pliers, I stead of skittering off. I call them snap ring pliers, because I don't recall the actual name of the tool, it is a similar pliers, that is slightly different. I will ask DH tomorrow and clarify.

I love getting a machine stitching again. You'll have so much fun!

Circlips are a pain for a DIYer. In my case, I found that leaving the ends angled works well enough with my circlip pliers. The pliers seem to fit right into the angles. So I found the original Singer circlips easier to deal with using the pliers I have. This is, I think a case of YMMV. I'm waiting for the day that someone is able to explain Singer's logic in using these things. I can't fathom why they felt the need for the world's strongest clips to clip together a Bakelite light housing.

Getting a 15 running is a fun and indeed joyful experience.

I think I'm still in shock that he found this machine, even though I know better. When we first got together and before he moved in with me, my fridge unexpectedly went out on me. I made casual mention on the phone that it had gone out, he asked what kind of fridge I liked and before the end of the day, he showed up in my front yard with not just one, but two. Anything I've ever put him on, he finds, but then he finds multiples. After he dropped off this machine, he went back over to our friend's to help one of her neighbors, he's since found two more antiques (a Class-99 and a Class 101) and a 403A. I've been cruising all over ISMACS website for two days looking into those ladies and then he dropped the 403A on me this afternoon. The antiques will stay where they are for now, one of them was sadly involved in a fire and most of her clear coating and decals are gone, though I did manage to find out it's the Knots & Rectangles design and it looks like in a couple of locations, the paint has completely peeled away from the metal. She's in pretty bad shape but when he turned the hand wheel, the needle moved up and down and the feed dogs moved, too. I told him that's a restoration we can't get into, we just don't have the capability to strip the body completely down and repaint it. She's in a treadle, the foot plate was damaged by the fire, I think most of her damage was caused by heat and smoke because her cabinet is just black in a lot of locations. I told him to start chatting up the possibility of selling her to someone who can do a full restoration on her. Given what she's been through, she deserves it.

My view has always been, these antiques were built to last through the ages and people tend to forget that. I've seen videos on machines that were far more damaged come back to life. As long as the hand wheel turns and the feed dogs move, there's life left in these old girls, they just need someone to give them some good TLC. So when I see or hear someone tell me they've given one over to a scrap guy, my blood just boils and my heart shatters into a million pieces. I can't tell you how many times I've actually cried when I hear of an antique machine that's just been tossed in the trash. People just don't understand how incredibly special these beautiful ladies are. I have two electronic machines and a vintage that takes cams, but once I get my lady cleaned and purring like a kitten, 99% of my sewing will be with her. You cannot beat the craftsmanship of these antiques and nothing that will come in the future will ever match it.