Probably new Work Stand template needed and info Please
 

I am trying to do some research regarding Weed sewing machines before I actually have one "up close and personal" from one CL photo. (YES - I will post pictures when I actually have it in hand.) Fortunately, 'seller' has deleted the ad. Today is snowy and cold here so probably not today. Is there anyplace where I can find more info than Needlebar and sewmuse? Are there threading diagrams and manuals available anywhere that I could start to look? Yes, I know, I will need to determine which model it actually is.
Do all Weed machines use straight needles?
What is the shuttle movement called? It is not what I consider Transverse as the position of plates are front to back and I'm thinking that the Vibrating shuttle movement is actually an arc vs straight.


What I have determined so far:

• treadle = feet shaped with "W" at heel
• highly unlikely there is a manual
• tension appears to be later style ? = lower case "t" shaped rather than capital "T"
• bonnet with oval carved front
• unable to determine if both plates are there - appears back plate is missing
• unknown if presser foot there
• lower dress/belt guard missing top connecting hardware
• partial decals similar to http://needlebar.org/cm/displayimage..._display_media
• I'm thinking the FF old style had the above decals but the later style had the "FF" decal on the bed?
• It appears that there were many different Weed shuttles and associated bobbins
• It appears that there may be different needle sizes as well??
• The serial number is located on the lip of the underside of the machine bed but I only saw that the early machines have serial number info on needlebar
• It appears that the hinge pins are in the back corners and that they don't have set screws?

Any further info would be greatly appreciated and I am aware that I may have to wait until I can get pictures posted for specific information.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Ahh the joys...

I am a shuttle short of using my Weed machine. If you would like specific photos and or measurements, please let me know.

I would love to see pics of a Weed machine.

Okay on the shuttle, look up Whittler or ier Mechanism, it is from side to side in a very short arc. I found this one day while looking and can't remember where but I wrote it done so I would have it. I don't know if it is Whittler or Whittier mechanism. Thought it was interesting information. I hope this helps you out.

The Whittier mechanism is still a VS or Vibrating shuttle. It is just short arc and usually includes a 90 deg direction change (for compact needs)

I will dig out the Weed machine head tonight and take some measured pictures.

I would be glad to help if I can, although SteveH is probably much better for the measurements.

My Weed dates to 1868 from what I can tell. The shuttle moves front to back very much like the Howe machines and is an open boat style shuttle. I have found that the Boye 18 needles work nicely and it isn't too complicated for threading. I have a copy of a later manual that was shared with me by another collector.

I can provide more photos if you like.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535540[/ATTACH]

Oh what a nice looking machine, just a beauty!

Thanks Steve & Suzanne - I am starting to get anxious as I have not heard back through CL reply but the last I heard that I would receive an email when he had it in his car "(in the next day or two)" and that was on the 10th. I emailed this morning so hopefully today. I don't have his phone number but have sent mine a couple of times

I've got so many questions just thinking about it. There wasn't much information in the ad and only one picture. Does it have a "bumper" in the back of the machine like the VS2? If it isn't frozen, is the "hand wheel" fairly easy to turn? What I'm thinking is that it would be turned flat handed vs trying to turn with thumb & index finger since it is lower and not much surface above the bed.

I sure hope I get it today and if/when I do - I'm sure I'll have even more questions and looking for more information.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Drat - I have to go to work today IT IS HERE!!!!!
 

:( I just got back from picking up the oldest(?) in the herd. Needs cleaning and needs parts - just quickly
plates - both front & back missing
screws for brace & legs
screw or?? for guard driver? don't know what it is called but the part that rides outer wheel of fly wheel

It has the shuttle and a bobbin had short thread showing thread from one side to other side and out long slits. More pictures to follow and specific questions later.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535581[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]535582[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]535583[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]535585[/ATTACH]O

The presser foot lifter is there and works. The feed dogs condition is uncertain - has some crud between presser foot toes and on teeth.

Gotta run -- lots more questions and pictures later.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

WOW... that would clean up SO nice..... Sorry, I was not able to get to the Weed machine last night. I will try again tonight.

Wow! What a beautiful machine! It will be stunning after just a little cleaning. Looks to be about 1875 if that is the serial number. I love the mother of pearl. Congrats!!

Thank you. Yes, that is the serial number on the front lip of the machine. I thought I had seen some serial numbers and the associated year but couldn't find it again. I did see that it is a Model 3. This machine didn't come with bobbin cover plates Is that where there would be the patent numbers that have been referred to when describing many antique machines?

Mother of pearl is neat. There are some chips in the bed. [ATTACH=CONFIG]535630[/ATTACH]
Any suggestions for simple cleaning and protection? I know the standard answer is sewing machine oil. I used TR3 on my sister's Lotus 66-1 and was pleased with that. (I'll have to write and see if it has held up as that was about five years ago.) Seems like I have read something here about equal parts linseed oil and vinegar and was wondering about that especially as related to the mother of pearl.

The machine as a whole moves surprisingly freely even though it seems dry. John figured out that if under piece of the tension assembly is pushed up it will raise the top of it. I'm guessing that is so that the thread can be laid in it. I also found that if it is twisted that there is a pin on the shaft so that it will stay in the raised position. How do you remove the tension to clean & polish?

There are some of the oil holes that seem plugged. Also I haven't tried to loosen any of the screws on the machine. The presser foot looks to be pretty well varnished on. I'm think of wrapping cloth around the needle bar & presser foot then putting plastic bag over so that I can douse it with kerosene and let it soak - probably for a few days - so that I can get those pieces off to clean & polish. I have some Wieman's silver polish that I used recently on some metal parts and found that it had a slicker feel than Brasso.


Suzanne, you said that yours takes Boye 18 needles. Would mine take those as well? I also found mention that MY1014 will work with this model at http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post3435789 I haven't taken the broken needle shank out of the needle clamp. Kind of funny that I found the shaft in the "drip pan."

I didn't take a picture of the bonnet. The latch does work with a S2 square bit. I found - Turn LEFT (counter clockwise) to LOCK the latch. Turn RIGHT (clockwise) to RELEASE the latch.

Is there a way to adjust the stitch length on this machine?

Does the bobbin winder have a spring end like the Singer 27 type bobbin winders?

Are there any "warnings" or "tricks" to cleaning, removing parts, adjusting specific to this machine?
I know the standard - gently, methodically and with lots of pictures.

More later, I'm sure.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

That is stunning! As for cleaning, I stick to sewing machine oil and silver polish (for shiny parts) on my super oldies. With that mother of pearl I would be very reluctant to use kerosene or any other type of solvent. Often times they painted over the mother of pearl to give a lovely iridescent glow to the design, but the paint over the mop comes off very, very easily and requires delicate care to avoid removing. I usually take off the tension assembly and other parts that remove easily for cleaning (take photos along the way to remember how they go back on).

Looks like the arm is silver plated as well. I always go gently with the silver polish on these parts also as the plating is not thick and can start to come off if cleaned aggressively. I am of the thought that I would rather have a tiny bit of grime and dirt left than to risk damaging the finish or decoration of a machine. Most of mine come quite clean but I don't expect them to be spotless.

The bobbin winder is spring loaded on the left side to allow the bobbin to be held tightly. Under the bed of the machine (on my model) is a post for adjusting the stitch length. It is in the back center, a bit towards the left.

In looking at your machine, I would pull it from the table and give a good oiling all over, inside and out and let it sit for a bit before gently wiping it down. Then polish the shiny parts and put it back together. It really is in great shape!

Suzanne

OOOPS guess I didn't read the whole thread before getting ready to post the following:


Gorgeous machine. I'm going to guess that it wasn't in that condition when you got it. Did you repaint the irons? I think I heard something about stove black for irons, but don't remember where or pictures after using on irons. Did you remove the shiny bits to clean & polish?

Does the presser foot have a hole in front of the where the needle travels? What I thought was crud turns out there is a metal under a layer of crud and has a hole in front of needle hole.

Mine has a little different wheel guard and has a roller type thing at the top. I'll get a picture of it later.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Hi Janey,

The machine was fairly dirty and gunky when I got it. I have not painted the irons. I prefer to just clean them thoroughly with sewing machine oil and a cloth, using a stiff brush if necessary. So many of these old machines have wonderful hand-painted gold accents on the irons that are hidden under the dirt. On the machine head I removed the slide plates, bobbin winder, tension assembly, and the table holds. I used sewing machine oil on the painted parts and silver polish on the silver parts and hand polished everything. Some silver parts were polished on the machine, taking care not to get polish on the paint.

Here is a photo of the presser foot.

Suzanne

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535654[/ATTACH]

Just amazing what you all find and are able to get them going again, loved this thread about Weeds and seeing the photos, congrats on your machines.

No problem - probably be a bit before I get to it. With the hand wheel where it is, I think I may wait until John gets a template made for the work stand before I do much more on it. I did a quick rub down with sewing machine oil so I could take today to the get together. I noticed I could scrape the presser bar with my fingernail to get the varnished oil off some of it. I will have to dig out my arapaima/pirarucu/paiche scale and see if it can do the job.

I have seen plates that have been made here out of a variety of materials - clear plexi, cardboard etc. I work in a sheet metal shop and have access to scraps of mostly 24 or 26 gauge, but I think they have some other gauges as well. I know they also have (hole) punch but don't know how thick it can go. I'm open for suggestions. Maybe you or Suzanne can get an end view of the plates I may be able to figure something out.

I know you are busy with victoriansweatshop and what had been your #1 most wanted and there is also then there was that other one. Yes, I have been following those.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Thank you. It looks like the standard foot for these machines may have been what I call a cording foot. Do you know if the this era of Weed machines only came with just the one foot? That picture also shows the patent dates on the plate - that is where I thought they were. Your bobbin also has the patent date on it, but mine doesn't. Something else that I noticed and am not sure if unique to this machine is that I can only insert and remove the shuttle when it is behind the needle plate and not in front of it. I tried to remove the bobbin, but it didn't come out. I don't know if it is rusted in or if there is a trick to removing it.

I'm pretty sure my treadle and irons won't look that good. The heel portion is very worn.

Yes, I was pretty amazed to be able to get it, too. The ad said that they preferred that it go to someone who wanted to restore it. I had a hint that he had a bit of surprise when I said that I thought I could sew with it. Now comes the hard part - bringing that to fruition.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Hi Janey,

My Weed came with only one foot but many machines of this era came with different feet for hemming and such. The foot would be removed and swapped for another. The manual talks of changing the foot for hemming. This one does look like a multi-purpose foot.

To remove the shuttle I turn the wheel until the shuttle is in the most forward position. It is almost under the needleplate. I can put my fingernail in the slot near the back and lift it out allowing the pointed nose to dip forward while lifting. The bobbin is held in the shuttle by a spring loaded circle at the nose (pointed) end. Mine was gunky and frozen when I got it. Oiling and gently pushing down on the circle pad with a toothpick finally released the bobbin.

I can't wait to see your beauty as it comes along. It always makes me happy to see these lovely oldies brought back to life!

Suzanne

16 ga for most ,14 ga for older ones has been successful for me.

Great looking machine! Beautiful MOP. The Linseed Oil and vinegar is for cleaning the wood only. Keep it away from your machine please. IIRC Steve has experimented with it and likes the results.
Rodney

Thank you, I just couldn't get the shuttle out that way. I will try again after I get it cleaned up some more. I wish I could find some more info on Weed machines. I did find one picture of some attachments but they look like the hemmers/binders are attached to the bed. I couldn't tell what one of the attachments was as it was in the back. I think it may have been a tucker that could be attached in place of the standard presser foot.

I'm excited to bring it back to life, too.

Thanks, I will see if I can find some scraps in 14 or 16 gauge the right size. I'm guessing that there is a little ledge or lip on top and exact size. I understand why a lot of sliding plates are missing. A nice thing about the Pfaff K and that era of Pfaff long shuttles is that they have a little screw on the back side of the plates to keep them from coming all the way off.

Yes Steve had good results on the wood and he actually accidently got some on Florence. Turns out that it brought out some decals he didn't know were there. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post6829095

I thought I would see what I could do today before it gets put in the work stand. I've been able to remove the screw for the presser foot, but not been able to remove the foot, yet. I put some Tri-Flow on it. I was also able to get the bobbin winder off. It seems like there was some "play" when it was screwed on so I may try to find either a thin nylon washer or maybe make a small felt washer to put between the bed and the bobbin winder.

Don't shoot me. I thought under the bobbin winder was a nice inconspicuous place to try some TR3 - I don't think I will use it on the mother of pearl, but I sure like the results I got on the decals under the bobbin winder. Before I started -

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535746[/ATTACH]

This is just starting to use TR3 -


[ATTACH=CONFIG]535745[/ATTACH]

And after several cotton balls of TR3

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535747[/ATTACH]

I also did a little at the base of the pillar behind the BW - and discovered this

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535748[/ATTACH]

well.... as long as I had the TR3 out I thought I would try it on the arm that goes across to the needle bar.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535749[/ATTACH]

I still have a long way to go to get it cleaned up. I'm pleased with it so far.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Weed FF model 3 update
 

John has the board done for it. We need larger clamps than the other machines take. I'll let him explain why, which he will post in the Work Stand thread ( http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...264914-10.html ). We have them just not on yet.

I still can't remove or replace the shuttle from the front side of the needle. This shuttle has a rounded back side but hits the needle plate and won't come out. I messed with the shuttle and found that there is some magnetism in the shuttle. It has an odd shaped screw at the 'pointy' end. It was removed easily. I took a picture yesterday but it isn't very good.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535819[/ATTACH]

The head of the screw has a notch so that when rotated to line up with the bobbin you can remove the bobbin.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535820[/ATTACH]


I was able to rotate the presser foot just a little bit when I tried earlier this morning. I oiled some more. Got it to rotate a little more after about an hour. Just was able to rotate all the way. I had to rotate it so the foot part was in the shuttle area to be able to remove it. Now to clean it up.

I found that there actually is a washer under the bobbin winder. I tried to put the screw in without the bobbin winder and it came off. Evidently it was varnished on with dried up oil -- more cleaning.

I think I may have figured out the thread path and how to adjust the upper tension. Kind of interesting that the last place before threading the needle is not a thread guide (like is common on more modern machines). It actually goes through the needle bar itself. NO, I don't have a picture of it, yet. The broken needle is still on the machine. I haven't been able to just hand unscrew the clamp. I will oil some more and try again later, maybe with a little more effort.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

It's so fun to follow your progress with this machine!
Please keep us all updated!
Ila

Janey,

What interesting differences in the machine. Here is my shuttle, very different from yours. Keep us posted!

Suzanne

[ATTACH=CONFIG]535834[/ATTACH]

Progress report 11/17/15 morning
 

Suzanne - you did a great job on the feed dogs - I hope mine even come close to looking that good when I get to them.

I did some polishing last night - Presser foot before cleaning
[ATTACH=CONFIG]535905[/ATTACH]

After cleaning I think it looks better than this picture shows - it is sitting on the seam guide screw -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]535906[/ATTACH]


Seam Guide & Screw before polishing -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]535907[/ATTACH]

Seam Guide & Screw after -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]535908[/ATTACH]

I was able to get the bobbin winder spring end to move and cleaned up some more. I found some CTA Spark Plug Wire Boot Pliers at a thrift store (the current 3052 pliers are different from this tool). I used this tool to turn the end a bit and then was able to move in and out. This is a side view of it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]535909[/ATTACH]
I also used it to try the needle clamp screw. I was able to get it started with the tool and then the rest of the way out with just my fingers. I put some oil in the hole and screwed it back in. I'll probably have to use needle nose pliers to get the broken needle out but I'll let it "stew" today in the oil that I was able to get into the needle clamp screw hole.

I tried to use it on pressure bar but haven't been able to get it to budge.

We have both 14 & 16 gauge metal at the shop. I asked about the hole punch and was told that it probably wouldn't work for the 14 gauge but probably would for the 16.

Better get to my paying job.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

another trick for screws is to wrap steel wool (OOOO version) around the threads, pinch with your fingers and then use a screw driver to turn the screw a few turns. A drop of oil helps as well. I also twist the steel wool up and "screw it" into the hole and back out (make sure all is removed) Again, a drop of oil helps

11-20-15 Progress report
 

Thanks Steve for the reminder on how to clean screws. I had forgotten that was how I cleaned the small screws on my sister's machine. On larger screws that I can hold onto the head I will sometimes put brasso or oil on crochet thread or use heavier dental floss then wrap around a thread of the screw and spiral back and forth along the length of the screw. I will have to try your method for the holes that the screws go in. I also have some small brushes for cleaning airbrushes, but those don't work on some things.

I'm not sure of the "proper" terms from some of the parts of this machine so -- please excuse and/or inform of proper names.

The cam and what I call a roller are really bad. I have gotten a little of the gunk off, but still not rolling.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536123[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH=CONFIG]536124[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536125[/ATTACH]


I haven't done a whole lot but have done some as shown on work stand thread. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7381459 I cleaned some on the underside with alcohol swabs that I got about 9 years ago. I think that the swabs may have dried a bit from when they were new since when squeezed they don't drip.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536126[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536127[/ATTACH]


I still haven't gotten the broken needle out -- I keep trying. I put a swab put on it and then a mini ziplock bag over it. I put a clothes pin over it to hold in place. When I took it off the swab had moved. I did get a little bit of the dried oil off that area.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536128[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536129[/ATTACH]


I got the pressure regulating screw to move a little with a piece of rubber around it and vice grips. Just twisted back and forth a bit. I tried by hand after I got it to move but couldn't do it by hand, so more oil. I didn't take a picture.

I think I have at least figured out how to adjust the stitch length, but it will need a lot of cleaning.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536131[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536132[/ATTACH]


I brought a thin piece (24? gauge) of metal home the width of the sliding plates. I think I got the right width. The ledges on the sides are really narrow - it will be interesting to get something that will work. I have some other work that needs to be done before I'm ready for the plates. I'm still kind of brainstorming about them.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

That is a cording foot BTW

Allow me to suggest 0000 Steel Wool and Brasso for the metal bits.

The main spur gears and drive shafts before
[ATTACH=CONFIG]536138[/ATTACH]

and after (sorry about the goofy background)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]536139[/ATTACH]

I'm wondering if it is a dual purpose foot as yours', SewMachines' and this one came with that foot but no other feet (unless you guys are holding out on me ;-)). I did see one that had a hemmer and another that had some other feet but I couldn't determine which ones.

I did try Brasso & 0000 steel wool on the cam on the machine and found it more messy than using alcohol swabs.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536295[/ATTACH]


I'm guessing that this is supposed to roll inside the track?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536296[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536299[/ATTACH]

I'm not very brave when it comes to taking some things apart. Many of the screws I can't even turn, to take apart the things I'm comfortable enough to remove. It looks like it may take some doing to get the feed dogs out. They do need some work. Its hard to take a picture of the feed dogs straight on. I've gotten some bits out of the back, but I think there is more in there.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536297[/ATTACH]

This is where to release the feed dogs, I think. Probably need to take needle plate off, too. I have tried a few times but will allow to "stew" some more. I'm trying to be careful and not use too much force.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536300[/ATTACH]

I was able to move the pressure regulating screw by hand this morning. I just twisted back and forth a bit. I also got the stitch length screw to move a bit.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536298[/ATTACH]

Still haven't gotten the needle out. I keep oiling. I got most of the stuff off the bottom of the bar. I don't have a picture of it. That is something else that is hard to get a picture of.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

you patient approach is the best. you're doing great. Remember it took decades for them to get stuck, week or even months to un-stick is not unreasonable.

Looking wonderful! I love seeing the photos of the progress, thanks for sharing!

Suzanne

Some more progress 11/25/15
 

I'm glad you enjoy seeing progress. I do, too.

I needed some more alcohol swabs and two Dollar Trees that I went to didn't have them. Went to K-mart and didn't see any with the bottles of alcohol, so went to the pharmacist and asked. He said they are kept with diabetic supplies. I ended up with a different brand and they are like 1 inch felt squares rather then the ones that I had before, which was a strip that was folded in fourths.

I was messing with machine and twisted the pressure regulator. I noticed some bright metal screw threads so decided to take it all the way out.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536494[/ATTACH]

then I went to cleaning it -- this is a picture of what I used.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536495[/ATTACH]

and here it is after

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536497[/ATTACH]

I went to put it back in and decided that there was crud down in there so I pulled the spring out.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536498[/ATTACH]

what I used to clean it with -- blue is strip of scouring pads sheet that I cut off to make it narrower and easier to work with on things like this.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536500[/ATTACH]

and here it is after running the pad up and down the spring several times -

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536501[/ATTACH]

I ran a 'real' pipe cleaner down the inside where the spring had been. It seemed rather dry. I think I will get the vacuum out to vacuum some of the stuff I may have loosened and didn't stick to pipe cleaner. Perhaps some of the pipe cleaner lint may have come off and hopefully I can vacuum that out, too.

I still haven't been able to get the needle out.

I just keep plugging along - getting dried oil off the bottom. I was able to start to unscrew the shuttle carrier screws, but just enough to see that I could probably get them out. I'm not quite ready to take it off. I think that I may need to take it out of the work stand to do some things as far as cleaning, but I want to do all I can while it is in the stand. It sure is nice to be able to rotate it to work on different spots and at different angles.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

I tried to put the pressure regulating screw back on without the spring and it wouldn't screw any further than it had been. Examined what I cleaned up and there is still a little bit of gunk in the threads. I think there may be more down inside, so that will need some attention. I don't mind the color difference, as probably that would be the correct position to actually sew.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Yippee!!!
 

I got the broken needle out!!! I had wrapped some paper towel and some "Press'n Seal" around the lower end of the needle bar (without the clamp) and doused with kerosene over night. Put some more kerosene on and let set for a few hours this morning. I took some small needle nose pliers and wiggled a little bit and was able to remove the needle. YEAH!!!

Pictures to follow - later.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Yes, it is true! I did get the broken needle out
 

:D :D :) :) It is hard to take pictures of round shank needles, even with a magnetic sheet underneath. I was able to get some that are somewhat decent. From my understanding the needle that is supposed to fit this machine had a notch on the top. It doesn't look like this one ever had a notch and possibly be 2mm shorter.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]536643[/ATTACH]

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Something I noticed was that "scarf" was more hollowed out like the long grove but shorter and with sides.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536645[/ATTACH]

When John measured the shank diameter with the micrometer it came out to .057 of an inch which translates to 1.4478mm and here I have measurements of length with a beading threader through the eye.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536646[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536647[/ATTACH]


I'm tickled pink to have gotten it out.

I'm still trying to get the dried oil off the bottom rods and joints. I picked up some birch wood cuticle sticks the other day to help save my fingernails a bit.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Hi Janey,

Nice work getting the needle out. Originally your Weed would have used original Weed needles. Singer never made Weed needles but the closest translation or recommendation would be Singer system 1x3 or 1x4. Weed and 1x3 needles are extremely difficult to find while 1x4 are readily available as Boye #8. The specs on the 1x4 taken from Kevin Pinkertons chart is 1.4mm round shank, 39.3mm shank to top of eye, and 45.4mm length. Worth comparing to the original. I don't believe the original Weed needles had a notched top as do the 1x4's. Here's the link to Kevin's chart which is invaluable.

Jon

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...NDUxYzA2ODg5Nw

Looking great, Janey. I have a few Boye 8 needles, and you are welcome to try one if there aren't any available on eBay at the moment.

Dianne in Colorado

Thank you Jon & Dianne. I was initially thinking that the notched top would be too long of a needle and the scarf would be in the wrong position. Then I realized that this machine probably predates the standard of putting a needle stop at the correct height. I haven't had any experience with setting a round needle - just read about it.

Something that I noticed while cleaning the bottom was that there is a hole directly under the hole in the needle plate. Initially I thought it was an oil hole, but upon further examination trying to figure out what it oiled found that it went all the way through. I can see that it would need to go all the way through in order for the scarf to be in a position to catch the bobbin thread and not break the needle.

WOW this is fun - frustrating at times, too. Based on the measurements and the link that Jon pointed to it looks like maybe the 34:22, MY1014, SY7256, SMx1014, SM1014 needles might work. A quick look last night I couldn't find those nor what machines they would fit.

Thank you Dianne for the offer. I'm not quite ready for actually installing a needle.

I still think there is a roller in the cam that isn't rolling. It kind of catches.
The needle plate needs to come off and cleaned. It evidently needs some more "stewing" time.
Then there are the feed dogs that need to be cleaned.
Slowly but surely.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

I just buy the 90% rubbing alcohol in the bottle for cleaning parts. Small removable parts sometimes just go in a jar filled with it to soak before I start scrubbing. It might be a cheaper way to go than buying the alcohol wipes though they do sound handy.
Looks like it's cleaning up nicely.
Rodney

I thought about using rubbing alcohol from the bottle, but then I didn't want to drip or spill it some place it didn't belong. The swabs are handy - especially the two ply ones that can spread out and wrap around the bars on the bottom. Maybe if I could get the small parts off or be willing to take larger pieces off I would use it from the bottle. I'm not really comfortable with dismantling this machine even if I could get the screws out. It is time consuming, but am enjoying seeing it clean up. I was thinking I wasn't making much progress, but then looked at some of the pictures before I got started... AND getting that needle out was a "biggie" for me. My next hurdle will be the needle plate screw.

Oh, after I got the needle out, I was able to put some kerosene on a dental brush. I took a little more of the handle off so that it would reach up farther.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.