Sewing Machine Work Stand
 

I was asked by a kind reader for additional pictures of the work stand that was used in the recent White Rotary 41 post. It took a little time, but here are a few.

Some time ago, I wondered if there couldn't be an easier way to hold and work on sewing machine heads. I poked around on the internet and didn't find anything for that purpose. I asked a few people who are interested in sewing machines and no one knew of such a device.

So I built what I was imagining. The stand balances the sewing machine head and allows easy rotation to any position desired. It is then locked in place. One finger can rotate the machine.

(Stand - Upright)
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Since I'm still working with the White Rotary, I've used it as the example machine in these pictures. But it works with any classic mount machine that uses a stepped cutout. A few baseboards with different sized cutouts adapt the stand for various machines as needed.

The upside down position works well for oiling the underside parts. Having the bottom tilted forward and up makes for easy inspection and cleaning. With all moving parts in the clear, the machine can be run in any position.

(Stand - Tilted Positions)
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The same balance that helps to provide easy horizontal rotation, also works in the vertical direction. The machine may be stood on end, if desired.

(Stand - On End)
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Any thoughts or comments are welcome.

hmmmmm.. Pondering before longer reply.... Very cool regardless!

Neat - I'm going to need one of those for my machine workroom! I know my DH will read this - so honey- add this to your "honey do" list please :)

Thanks for those pictures. That is a slick setup and a smart design. It's obvious you put some serious thought into it. It's a whole lot nicer than flipping a machine around on a table or workbench. I have a feeling you're going to see several copies being made.

One more thing to add to my to-do list.
Rodney

This is sweeter than candy! I've got to have one of those.

Cari

pretty sure this is going on the " I probably really should have one of these but may be to lazy to build " list. It really would make a lot of things nice for me.

That is such a great idea. Ever thought of marketing it?

That's pretty fabulous! Sure beats the heck out of using a big bean bag.

I agree, about marketing it. I bet you'd get some buyers.

Wow, fantastic. What I could get accomplished with that baby!

How is it actually held in. I see wing nuts. Is the base 2 layers? Do the uprights have the holes to allow for height adjustments, such as for spending lots of time cleaning the top of the head?

What is the bottom circle for?

Thanks for sharing.

Reminds me a lot of a larger one my df-in-l made for projects in his shop. We called his "rotissorie" (I may have spelled that wrong.) He could flip his projects very easily and work at any angle also.

Wow I am very impressed. It sure beats my upside down carpet squares.

Great use of gray matter:D

I am a little overwhelmed and very flattered by all of the kind responses to the work stand. I'll answer your questions here, as best I can, until I can provide some additional pictures.

The white frame is made from angle iron, welded together, with the two posts of perforated tubing at the ends. The bottom of it forms a tray of sorts, that can hold a baseboard suitable for the machine being worked on.

I've been practicing making the classic stepped cutouts in wood and have gotten fairly good at it. A surprisingly small collection of baseboards can accommodate most machines.

There are four metal retaining clips that hold the machine down at its edges. Steel is used for strength, as considerable weight and stresses are present. The clips have thin rubber pads where they contact the machine. Finally, a small piece of cardboard file-folder material is placed by hand under the rubber of each clip. This protects the machine finish from any gasses or chemicals coming out of the rubber.

Bolts go through the clips, then through the baseboard and finally through the metal frame itself, with wing nuts on the bottom. With everything tightened down, it is very secure and gentle on the machine.

The circle at the bottom is simply a platform. It is used when standing the machine on its end. I made it a ring and painted it white, simply for looks. One of the pivot shafts, that the machine rotates on in the horizontal position, is turned vertical and inserted into a hole in the frame at the center of the white circle.

The holes in the white upright arms are for changing the pivot point. I found it isn't necessary very often. Most machines have a vertical center of gravity pretty close to 3 inches above the bed. A very tall and top-heavy machine might need the pivots moved up. A very short machine might need them moved down.

For the outer part of the stand, I used wood 2x4 material, cut to various shapes and sizes for the feet, upright elements and a crossbar holding it together.

I haven't yet considered marketing this, but I'd be open to any of your thoughts along those lines. I'd probably need some help and advice with such a small and specialized market.

In the meantime, I would gladly help anyone in building one for them self. I'll try to answer any and all questions. By the way, I'm not on all the time, but usually I am once a day.

I'll add some pictures of what I've described above.

Great work stand.

THAT is really cool! Functional, and you actually made it look nice too! I like it.

I think you could definitely find a market for this. A small and specialized market yes, but a pretty obsessive and dedicated market too, LOL.

What a smart idea --I could use one too but probably will never get it.

I've seen larger rotisseries used in body shops for rebuilding cars.
I think you could sell at least a few. We're not the only group of old sewing machine enthusiasts out there. There's ISMACS and some yahoo groups that I know of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are more too.
Even people who can make their own might buy if it's available. It frees up more time for machines instead.
I'm not sure what professional sewing machine repair shops use but there may be a market there as well.
Your rotisserie can save a lot of wear and tear on a machine. I know I'm flipping the machine I'm working on right now over a lot.
Rodney

Love it! What a handy table. I would be interested in buying a table or the pattern from you. What is the height from the floor?

That is great, you should patent it.

Sorry for the delay. I love this concept. Definitely needed.

What I wanted to consider is the issue of having to lift the whole thing to switch from horizontal to vertical mode. With some folks here that is a real concern. I think that with a small amount of redesign it could be made to hinge to the vertical position rather than have to be removed and reset.

I have not been able to come up with a solution that is as elegant as your base design yet, but I will ponder it over the weekend.

Excellent concept, great execution, and awesome that you are sharing it!!!

I certainly am appreciative of the comments you all are leaving about the work stand. You are very supportive and encouraging. And thought provoking.

I guess that the need I've filled here, may exist more widely. I'd like to see others benefit from this idea, somehow. If others are interested in having this, we'll find some way for that to happen. Don' go 'way.

There was one question about the height. The measurement from the bottom of the base (dark gray) to the tips of the frame uprights (white) is 22 inches. The maximum width is at the tips of the pivot shafts, and is 30 inches. The way I've built this, it really needs a table, counter or bench under it.

One problem with a homebrew project is that one doesn't have a manual with all of the names of parts. I'm posting a picture of the stand with parts labeled. I realize that some of the parts I don't even have names for yet. I'll standardize on these terms and if anyone wants to converse, at least we can be using common terms. I think the parts identification should be a nice printable size for 8-1/2" x 11" if you want to print it out.

(Stand - Parts Identification)

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That is simply brilliant!

This machine work stand has my mind working overtime. Myfirst recommendation has already been made and that is you should apply for a patent.The market for this stand may not be restricted to sewing machines only. I feelthat a special base board could adapt this stand to mechanical clocks. Thiswould not require any changes to the basic design and add mechanical clocks tothe prospective market. I will work on ideas for a board clock adapter baseboardif you are interested.

if you were to ... shoot there is a name for it inlet the upright boards so that they were flush with the legs ( you know cut half way through each piece and interlock them ) and then round the bottom corners..... you could put a retainer strap over the pivot rods and then just grab the upright and roll it up on its nose....saves from having to lift it each time... I know that was mentioned as a possible improvement.

KenZ – I’m pleased with your ideas and thoughts about the stand.

Any other applications, such as for the mechanical clock, would interest me very much to see. I’m wondering how much one of those clocks weighs and where its vertical center of gravity is.

As for patenting, I don’t know. I know they changed the law recently so that whoever files first, gets the patent. I guess I just risk some big company, like Singer, from taking this idea and doing a much better job with big bucks. But this involves nothing that hasn’t been known for well before Singer. Just simple physics and the balancing of things. You could say that Singer was into balancing all kinds of things. I also can’t imagine that the people at Singer never noticed that their sewing machines were a little top heavy.

Companies have had a long time to do this if they were going to. If one of them did, I’d get a kick out seeing it anyway. This is just a good idea that I’m glad to share. If it can be as useful to others, I’d like that.

I find myself wondering if this might be a good QB group project for several of those who are interested. As a newcomer, I’d defer to other peoples thoughts on that.

SteveH –

I appreciate your comments about the work stand. I think you were the first to respond, so thank you.

The frame of the stand is easier to pick up than one might think. The swing frame doesn’t weigh a great deal. I actually find it easier to lift and turn a machine in the frame, than I do lifting a machine onto a bench or table by itself. Part of the reason is the frame uprights make very good handles, grabbing them like a couple of ski poles.. Another might be that the frame tends to hide the top-heaviness of the machine. It’s a bit less cumbersome in the frame.

I thought through several versions of this stand, thinking of using not only two axes, but even three. If you have the need and budget for a two axis device, let me offer the simplest approach that I was able to come up with for a two axis design.

Description:
A large metal ring, similar to a hula-hoop, is held vertically by a captive foot or base, containing deep groove rollers that would prevent the ring from leaning forward or back. It would need at least three of these rollers, spanning probably 90 to 120 degrees of the circle. The rollers would keep it vertical at all times, while allowing it to turn.

Retaining collars 2 or 3 inches long are welded to the inside of the circle, diametrically opposed. These collars, extending toward the center, would open or close to secure the pivot shafts. The swing frame, with little change, would span the inside of the circular ring. Turning a machine in the second axis would be like using a big steering wheel.

(Quick diagram - 2 axis design)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519297[/ATTACH]


What do you think?

Your existing stand where you simply lift the machine and put the pivot in the bottom hole is the simplest way to achieve having the machine on end. I don't think it needs to be in that position often anyway.

If you want all positions without taking the machine off the stand I would do it like this:
You can build the stand out of wood too. Use plywood for the rings.
I draw terribly. Keep the outer part of your existing stand the same. Instead of the large outer ring use a smaller flat ring as the sewing machine base. Add 2 wide pads (or another ring to rest the base ring on) with clamps at the bottom of your verticals. In the horizontal position in your drawing above you would be able to spin the machine so the ends face you and you can tilt the machine on either end by rotating the ring.

Or like this:
If you have access to metal working tools you can make your base like an engine stand too. For reference:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=engine+stand
That would give you easy access to 3 sides and the top and bottom. The metal mounting bracket and pivot would have to be heavier so it doesn't flex. If you hinge the main upright you can turn the machine vertically too. You would need either a wider base, a counterweight, or need to bolt it down for stability though.

The big thing is the idea. Your idea to build a work stand is brilliant. There's a lot of ways to build it once you have the idea.
Rodney

The 1951 Brewer Sewing Supplies Company catalog had three versions of sewing machine “Repair Jacks” listed for holding sewing machines to work on them. The “Wedge Lock” #1205 ($25.90), the “Roemer” #1206 ($15.00), and the “Boco” #1207 ($25.90). The Boco was “The Sewing Machine Vise Combining All Important Features Required by the Mechanics”.

I wish Brewer still carried them.....

The photo is mine, but the catalog contents are copyright 1951 by Brewer Sewing Supplies Company.

CD in Oklahoma

CD,

I have a c. 1910 Excelsior Supply Catalog with the "Roemer" for $5. The pictures look similar to the ones in the Brewer catalog except it is holding what appears to be a Wheeler and Wilson D9. Guess they must have sold a few for it to be available over an at least 40 year period of time.

Jon

Thanks Jon. That’s interesting.

I would say that the “hay-day” for selling sewing machine vises came much earlier that 1951, like maybe in the mid and late 40s? Fifteen dollars for a gadget to hold a sewing machine while you rehabilitated it was a lot of money back then, wouldn’t you think? Twenty-six dollars for one with all of the bells and whistles could have possibly been even further out of reach. An independent shop (who Brewer primarily sold to) would have to rehab a great many machines to recoup the cost for any of the “Repair Jacks”, even if your shop just had one. An increase from $5 to $15 in forty-one years was definitely something worth noting, but with the war disrupting the supply of machines, maybe expected. With or without the devices, machine rehab probably saved a lot of small shops.

The 1951 catalog that I have showing the three different models available was possibly an attempt to get rid of the remaining stock when rebuilding machines was less of a necessity. I don’t know that for a fact, but by 1951, new models were out and the reconditioning was probably coming to an end. Although, evidently Brewer sold them all, because they don’t offer them that I can see today....

CD in Oklahoma

I made a baseboard over the weekend. I thought I'd post a picture of it, with the template I used to make it and the router I used to do it. It is for Singer three-quarter sized machines. One is coming up after the White Rotary 41, so it will be ready.

I'm learning to make the classic stepped cutouts used in cabinet tops and portable cases. I've figured out how to do it-- still getting better at it each time, though.

I didn't want to use a vice-grip like hold on the edges of a machine. I wanted a bed similar to that which the sewing machine base is designed for. A classic cutout holds the machine very well, if it has enough downward pressure to keep it held securely within the shaped recess. I think that it is the most gentle way to hold a machine. If I couldn't make this cutout, I couldn't make my envisioned work stand. So I tried it first, to save possible wasted effort with other aspects of the stand, if I could not. After a few tries I was satisfied that, with practice, I could make good cutouts.

(Baseboard/Template/Router)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519410[/ATTACH]

I've shown a closer look of one corner. I'm able to get a fairly good edge and contour. Its hard to see, but just above the curve is an additional notch, allowing for a rod on the underside, spanning the width of the machine. The notch lets me keep a full 3/8 inch step elsewhere. If you see any irregularity, it's probably the felt - which is a whole 'nuther thing to master. I like to put felt around the stepped edge, to be kind to the machine. Its easier on the baseboard, too. I'm still experimenting with different ways to cut and glue the felt strips.

(Baseboard Close Up)
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I think I like the "Boco" model the best. That one and the one in the middle can both be made by a competent welder at home. All three models were intended for a commercial setting where they are actually bolted to a dedicated workbench, a luxury most home mechanics wouldn't have.

OurWorkbench: Very nice looking base adapter.
Rodney

ThayerRags: Thanks for adding the "Repair Jacks". I would have never found or known about them otherwise. I looked at them for a long time. I'm not sure exactly how they grip the machine but it looks like one would have to be careful. I agree with Rodney, as to choices of the three. It looks like the Boco balances the machine better than the others. The Wedge Lock gives a lot of possibilities for orientation, but imagine the stress on the lock mechanism at some angles.

Rodney: Thanks for looking and for all of your kind comments and interest.

I've been preparing some additional photos of the work stand, with gratitude for the many positive responses I've seen. I am intending to post sufficient details to help those interested in having one of these useful devices.

I encourage anyone visiting here to leave a post, even a brief one, which will help me know who is interested and what information I can offer to be most helpful. Feel free to ask any questions. If anyone wants a work stand and can't get it built, I'll try to help. Send a PM.


SWING FRAME CONSTRUCTION

I suggest a modular approach to the stand. The three modular parts would be, the swing frame, the baseboards and mounting hardware, and lastly some sort of support base for the frame. Let's begin with the swing frame, as it is central to just about any design that could be conceived. It is the crucial component that repositions the pivot point to the center of gravity, giving easy, balanced movement.

(Basic Swing Frame)
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The welds need to be strong. I have welds at all possible locations, top and bottom, inside and out. Particularly where the uprights attach to the frame bottom, the welds need to be able to carry the weight and stresses involved. I didn't file the welds at all, to keep all the metal that was there for strength. I just painted it.

(Frame Corners and Uprights)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520410[/ATTACH]

If you can get the swing frame done, all the other parts can fall into place around it fairly easily. One could, for example, cut the top of an unsalvageable sewing machine cabinet to create a baseboard. It has even been suggested to use this frame for something other than sewing machines.

And, while the base I built served well to prove the concept and design, there are a number of other configurations that might work better for you or fit better in your work environment. I'll post some other suggestions soon.

The swing frame metal stock may be obtained from many hardware stores or home improvement centers. I got the metal I used from Lowe's. Two three-foot lengths of one-inch angle iron are enough for the frame bottom. One three-foot length of one-inch perforated steel tubing will suffice for both uprights. Below is an illustration of how to cut and shape the pieces for welding. You need two of everything.

(Diagram - Metal Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520411[/ATTACH]

When I finally had the swing frame welded, before it was even painted, I tested its operation with a rough baseboard and a sewing machine. Having no fasteners yet, I clamped a 1x2 piece of wood, 9 inches long, across the sewing machine bed with C-clamps, front and back. I arranged two saw horses to be parallel at the correct width. I temporarily used large bolts extending outward from the uprights, as pivots.

It worked great. The benefit of balance was immediately apparent.

There I was, in the back yard, spinning a sewing machine around on two saw horses while an interested and confused passerby looked on for a short time. While a funny memory, it points out that if you have the swing frame, the rest can come together without too much difficulty.

More soon,
John


Coming: Pivots, Baseboards & Fasteners, Lock Mechanism, Stand Base Dimensions, Additional Frame Support Ideas For Work Areas

PIVOT SHAFTS

With the swing frame done, better pivots were needed. Better than the bolts used for initial testing. Nicely machined steel rods with tapped end holes were beyond my means. It would have required a machine shop to do. As a home brew solution, 1/4 inch I.D. plumbing pipe is used. It has a larger outside diameter, a little over 3/8 inch. The ends were made very flat and perpendicular to the pipe. A large carriage bolt holds the pipe against several fender washers. When tight, it forms a strong pivot shaft for the frame. It is also easily adjustable. The disassembled parts are shown below.

(Pivot Shaft Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520657[/ATTACH]

The wooden discs were cut from 3/8 inch plywood, sanded smooth and painted. The disc on the left side is used to lock the frame in place. The lock mechanism used here will be covered in a later post, along with some alternate ideas for a lock mechanism. The smaller disc on the right is just for spacing, symmetrical with the other side. The final assembly is shown below.

(Stand-Swing Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520658[/ATTACH]

In the time since making these pivots, I have thought of a number of other ways that this could have been done. Anyone building this might consider other possibilities. It needs to be strong enough. It needs to be smooth in order to rotate easily. It should be adjustable. And it needs to be something you can do easily, depending on what materials and tools you have. If you think of something better than this, go ahead and be creative.

I am thoroughly enamored of this set up. It looks like a must have for my little shop, hopefully going to be built later this summer.

Cari

Any chance you would make and sell the stand swing frame? I don't have welding skills, but could cut wood, drill holes and insert nuts and bolts! Router work... have one, but need practice!

Cari-in-Oly - Cari, I'm glad to know you're interested in this. If the frame and pivots are strong enough and you have a firm grip on the machine, you'll have no problems. I'll help in any way I can. It would be great if you could post your ideas and progress here.

Farmhousesewer - Maria, I'm checking on some things. Let me get back to you soon.

John

ADDITIONAL SWING FRAME NOTE

For anyone building a swing frame or having one built, I neglected to mention something. In addition to the uprights being perpendicular in two directions, placing a rod or dowel through the holes of the two uprights while welding will help to insure that neither of them is twisted slightly. If twisted, the pivots you mount later will tend to wobble.

I don't have a dowel handy, so I'm showing with an arrow. I hope it shows what needs to be in a straight line.

(Frame Axis)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520802[/ATTACH]

More soon,
John