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-   -   Singer VS 2 (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/singer-vs-2-a-t259260.html)

xxxxxxxxxx 01-09-2015 03:25 PM

any replating here in the states will cost you big $$$$. Thank EPA for that.

you might look up eastwood you'll find replating kits for sale. next option is powder coating.

myself just polishing the steel work well.

Champanier 01-09-2015 04:08 PM


Originally Posted by xxxxxxxxxx (Post 7040859)
any replating here in the states will cost you big $$$$. Thank EPA for that.

you might look up eastwood you'll find replating kits for sale. next option is powder coating.

myself just polishing the steel work well.

Yes, I saw the kits. So much to learn! When you polish the steel, do you put wax or shellac over it? I've shined up a few that had the nickel plating completely shot, and wondered if they need some kind of protection to keep them shiny.

xxxxxxxxxx 01-09-2015 04:39 PM

The fine finishing polish is a wax base. next would be wax, as for shellac I will not use that stuff on anything, That stuff is evil, thats just me.

as time goes on, it will tarnish some, but you will also be putting more oil on the machine so rub the excess oil on to the steel. I have machines that where polished 20 yrs ago, they still have a nice bright look, but not the mirror finish they did have. These face plates , handwheel never were bright like chorme

anyway this isn't any different than polishing silverware or pots and pans, jewelry

SteveH 01-09-2015 04:50 PM

I second X's comments. (except the Shellac part, although I would never use it on shiny metal)

The act of polishing reduces the surface area and removes most of the micro crevasses where moisture stays and rust starts. Once polished they are actually much more rust resistant then unpolished metal

sews 01-09-2015 10:41 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Champanier (Post 7036574)
've never seen a Singer handcrank in person, so it's hard for me to picture how they work and go together usually.

Yes, same here, so I took some photos today of my new HC 28k
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7041394

Here's the hand crank hook up. Does that explain it?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]505455[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]505456[/ATTACH]

(I'm afraid the handle is bent - but nevertheless, it shows how it is connected.)

Champanier 01-09-2015 11:47 PM


Originally Posted by sews (Post 7041412)
Here's the hand crank hook up. Does that explain it?

(I'm afraid the handle is bent - but nevertheless, it shows how it is connected.)

Thanks for posting. That definitely helps. I think I'm just going to set it up as a treadle again. I have the base and top - just no drawers or coffin top. I have enough parts so that it will go together okay though. (Just need to remember to order more leather belting.)

Champanier 01-09-2015 11:56 PM


Originally Posted by SteveH (Post 7041057)
I second X's comments. (except the Shellac part, although I would never use it on shiny metal)

The act of polishing reduces the surface area and removes most of the micro crevasses where moisture stays and rust starts. Once polished they are actually much more rust resistant then unpolished metal

I have the faceplate and bobbin plates cleaned and polished, but the're still pitted. Will experiment more with the dremel tomorrow. I think I have to go more abrasive - I was just using the cloth padded wheel and jeweler's rouge, then escalated to a scratchy sponge/loufah-like wheel, but there is much more to do. I keep trying Simichrome and Mothers in between to see if anything starts to shine. It's much better, but I don't like the pits and they seem too deep to truly polish out.


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