Thank you Lucy. Kathie

Update: 1920 Green 127 Singer Sphinx ~ well curiosity got the best of me and I went to look at it :) The color of the decals are slightly different than my 1908 model. Same decal but the tint leans slightly towards sage green. The sewing machine was in excellent condition and appeared to be well care for over the years. The owner said that it belonged to her grandmother, who received it as a wedding present from her husband :)

I wonder if this difference in color tint is similar to the Brown Lotus which makes it more rare? Any thoughts?

Judy

Thanks for the info Billy.... Visited your tuts, cleaned it up some, and a light service, didn't do the whole teardown/clean up but sews like the beauty she is except the stitch length could use some work pretty sure thats an internal adjustment can live with it at this time. Working on finding a manual, and a little fixes on the cabinet.

This was on the Teal Riccar from a few days ago... Thanks again !! :)

Jan, with that much rust on the machine you will not be able to save much of the decals. Once the rust is removed the paint will be gone under it. After you to get it to work you might consider a repaint in shiny black paint, after the paint is cured spray on a shellac over coat and this will give it an antique look. If you are determined to save what finish is left and it you have a dremel tool, you can use the buffing pads(you will go thru a ton of them) on the rusted spots. I f the rust is to deep then I would strip it and sand it down to shiny metal prime it and paint it black.
Don't use any derusting chemicals if you plan to save decal and any of the old finish it will ruin them and the finish. You can also sand the rusted areas with wet or dry sandpaper lubricated with karosene just make sure you get to shiny metal if not the rust will come back. Hope this helps Glenn

Jan, with that much rust on the machine you will not be able to save much of the decals. Once the rust is removed the paint will be gone under it. After you to get it to work you might consider a repaint in shiny black paint, after the paint is cured spray on a shellac over coat and this will give it an antique look. If you are determined to save what finish is left and it you have a dremel tool, you can use the buffing pads(you will go thru a ton of them) on the rusted spots. I f the rust is to deep then I would strip it and sand it down to shiny metal prime it and paint it black.
Don't use any derusting chemicals if you plan to save decal and any of the old finish it will ruin them and the finish. You can also sand the rusted areas with wet or dry sandpaper lubricated with karosene just make sure you get to shiny metal if not the rust will come back. Hope this helps Glenn

Sorry for the double post I must hit the mouse twice Glenn

I haven't really decided about what to do. I want to get good digital pictures of the decals, so they will be documented. I need to do what I have to in order to get her unstuck, so if the kerosene ruins the decals then, stripping and painting may well be in order. Guess that will be my plan. The best decals are on the back, but they are quite dark, and don't seem to want to clean up too well. Will send updates. Thanks for everyone's help.

Jan

Jan what part of North Texas are you from. I was born in Decatur and went to North Texas U in Denton. Glenn

There is a 2 part epoxy type compound for metal that might work to repair the base. I can find out the name of it from my son. He is an auto mechanic and says you can get it at an auto parts store. Let me know if you want the name of it.

Sorry didn't read ahead far enough to see Glenn already told you about the weld stuff.