So true! Most of the machine do NOT need to be taken apart to be refurb. I have never had to do it and ALL of my machines run very nicely. Look at MUV's excellent tutorial on cleaning.

Just keep a lookout for the great local CL posts, sometimes you will even find free machine. Have fun hunting!

I think if you totally dis-assemble it is probably because you plan to have the machine painted. There is a tutorial someone put on QB to completely dis-assemble a machine. It is very hard to completely dis-assemble then put it back together a month or months later. If I dis-assemble anything, I take it apart and ASAP get it back together - one thing at a time, whether a tension or a bobbin area. I hate it when I lose screws. Good idea to keep a magnet around or a muffin tin to put things in some kind of order. It is not necessary to soak a machine in a bath of kerosene just to get dried oil off the machine. A soak in kerosene won't do that much for rust either. Some machines do have a good bit of dried on oil or 'varnish' it does not necessarily all have to be removed. The machine will run just fine with that 'varnish' on it. What has to be cleaned is the MOVING parts of the machine. To move freely they can not have rust or dried on oil. Usually it is dried on oil that keeps the machine from running. A couple squirts with Tri-flow may solve the problem. Rust needs a rust remover and then a thorough clean up - a tin can of kerosene can and a brush can wash anything extra off and give it a coating. You can also use a solvent to clean off dried oil. A solvent however will damage paint and plastic on contact. Protect your machine with something before you try that. A solvent also has deadly fumes - use it out doors on a windy day - protect yourself. You may not feel anything from the fumes but the fumes can damage your immune system. Ask me how I know that. If you use a solvent use only a few drops at a time - you don't really have much oil in those joints and it will evaporate pretty fast. I always try to turn the machine as I work.

Nearly every one of my old manuals for my machines tells you that if your machine is sluggish from old oil to "oil" the machine with a few drops of kerosene, run it until it loosens up, and then re-oil with a good quality sewing machine oil.

I am glad my fellow members of the board are recommending not to take a machine completely apart to clean it. I have never had to take one apart. I use my machines so my goal is to clean them until the run quite and smooth. Miriam, Charlee and the Quiltdoctor Jan do wonders with these old machines. Listen to them and you will have a happy machine and you will not be pulling your hair out trying to put it back together. If your goal is to make bright and shiny and to look pretty remember if you use it as they were meant to be the parts will turn dark again very quickly by keeping it well oiled and use. Remember some of that varnish on the rods and such keep it from rusting. Happy sewing

I think I got it! It is a template that attachs to the machine, but removable like a spool of thread would be, that causes the needle to move in a way to make things like waves, or blocks or initials. It would be the difference between using a cookie cutter and pencil on cardboard or using the computer to make a design. Those sound like fun things to use. I will have to remember them.

You got it!! :) They are fun...they don't usually have the diversity of the fancy stitches on the new machines, but they do add a bit of interest as something different!

This might be a bit involved but here goes:

I have an Edison HA-1 15 Clone. Nice looking machine but it's got problems.

I found the first clue in a bunch of bent and broken needles in the case.

I found:
The feed dogs out of adjustment, the were too far forward and impacting on the needle plate.
The presser foot was adjusted too high
The needle bar was adjusted too low
The needle bar and presser foot was hitting each other.

I adjusted the feed dogs, the presser foot shaft and needle bar using the info in the 15-91 service manual I was referred to. (The 15-91 books are not as close to the clones as I'd want them. There are many differences. )

However now it thread jams horribly. So I checked the hook to needle timing as best as I can and find the hook a bit advanced of the needle. Instead of being centered at the needle at the eye, it's maybe an 1/8" past it.

There is another potential problem I'll be checking on later today, but in the mean time, any body have any suggestions from hands on experience, or links to service manuals other than the Singer manuals????

Joe

New Machines
 

Well, went up to Orange county for an alumni lunch so checked out the CL in the area. I managad to score a couple of okay machines.

First I think it is a 1891, VS2, serial #10610104 with Scrolls and Roses decals in very poor condition. The treadle table is okay but will need a few parts. I got this one for free so not complaining, it turns really smoothly. Wish there would of been some extra bobbins.

Second was a Franklin head with the egyptian looking beetles, seril #217954. There is rust on all the chrome parts and some of them the plating is coming off. It is very stiff and missing the face plate. Anyone know how to date the franklin machines?

Not a bad trip and had a good lunch and met some fellow former Nebraskans.

Nice machines, Lisa and they will clean up nice.

OMG while refinishing the raymond treadle I came across the coolest thing, while sanding the wood my husband thought he hit a piece of tin but, when I looked at it closely it looked like it had gold so I took some acetone on a rag and rubbed and under the paint that someone put on there it was a Raymond M'fg logo, very beautiful!! Cant believe someone would have painted over this its really amazing. I'll forward pics as soon as I can. Would have never known, they painted over this in very dark brown paint... blows me away! At this moment I'm working with q-tips.... LOL