Should I buy this machine?
#22
After looking at the pic it looks like the bobbin casing is there as stated by others here. $25 may be a very good price for the distance. I would ask if the wheel turns however so you know if you are getting into more tune up or repair than you might be thinking of doing.
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
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I'm happy for you. Have fun. Does it have a needle decal on the front of the pillar? It looks like there may be a serial number on the bed in the back of the pillar. If it is like my New National, it was hard to read and even taking pictures of it from different angles didn't help. I just didn't notice that the serial number was written on a tag that came with the machine.Call it intuition, or whatever you want, but I think that machine will probably take CC1221 needles. The eye is shorter to the tip than a 15x1 and I think that a 206x13 is even shorter. I don't know if you will want to try to adjust a 15x1 and then time it, or not. If it was mine, I would read http://myperfectstitch.blogspot.com/...r-classic.html more thoroughly. I'm wondering if someone tried a 15x1 and that is why "the needle ran into something on its way down..."
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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The serial number is clear NHR115359.
#24
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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On this one the needle ran into something while veeerrrryyyy slowly turning the wheel, in hopes that things were moving, which they were.
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Cleaned up and will sew stitches, turning by hand anyway.
Some interesting decals on the inside of the pillar.
If anyone knows where to find bobbins for this I would appreciate knowing, the one that came with it does not have a hole for the bobbin winder pin, although otherwise it is correct in size.
The table is going to take some more time..
Some interesting decals on the inside of the pillar.
If anyone knows where to find bobbins for this I would appreciate knowing, the one that came with it does not have a hole for the bobbin winder pin, although otherwise it is correct in size.
The table is going to take some more time..
#26
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,965
It's starting to look nice again, great job :- )
I've had good results with resin polish like Auto Glym, a regular brand in the shops here. There are lots of equivalent products in stores. They polish and further lift up dirt and grime, and leave the machine shiny like it once was. However, as you know well, decals are delicate and can stand up to a cleaning and polishing if the shellac finish is in good condition.
Is it a rotary model? If the hook and race turn in one direction it is, some models are occilating. If it's a US made rotary model it might take this type, but you need to measure accurately or verify in some way. Japanese made machines tend to take class 15, if it's made else where usually not, unless it's Singer of course.
I've had good results with resin polish like Auto Glym, a regular brand in the shops here. There are lots of equivalent products in stores. They polish and further lift up dirt and grime, and leave the machine shiny like it once was. However, as you know well, decals are delicate and can stand up to a cleaning and polishing if the shellac finish is in good condition.
Is it a rotary model? If the hook and race turn in one direction it is, some models are occilating. If it's a US made rotary model it might take this type, but you need to measure accurately or verify in some way. Japanese made machines tend to take class 15, if it's made else where usually not, unless it's Singer of course.
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 862
It's starting to look nice again, great job :- )
I've had good results with resin polish like Auto Glym, a regular brand in the shops here. There are lots of equivalent products in stores. They polish and further lift up dirt and grime, and leave the machine shiny like it once was. However, as you know well, decals are delicate and can stand up to a cleaning and polishing if the shellac finish is in good condition.
Is it a rotary model? If the hook and race turn in one direction it is, some models are occilating. If it's a US made rotary model it might take this type, but you need to measure accurately or verify in some way. Japanese made machines tend to take class 15, if it's made else where usually not, unless it's Singer of course.
I've had good results with resin polish like Auto Glym, a regular brand in the shops here. There are lots of equivalent products in stores. They polish and further lift up dirt and grime, and leave the machine shiny like it once was. However, as you know well, decals are delicate and can stand up to a cleaning and polishing if the shellac finish is in good condition.
Is it a rotary model? If the hook and race turn in one direction it is, some models are occilating. If it's a US made rotary model it might take this type, but you need to measure accurately or verify in some way. Japanese made machines tend to take class 15, if it's made else where usually not, unless it's Singer of course.
And after yesterday's two machines I'm way over my spending budget for the month...
#28
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,965
It was just meant as an illustration and point of referance, I'm sure vintage Free / New Home bobbins turn up. I bought my 201 as a fix up machine, and I have spent a bit on replacement parts like drive belt, bobbin tire, added a few bobbins and accessories, new and vintage. It's in a small table and turned out to be my favorite. If it's a machine you end up using, you will never regret spending a bit of time and effort on it, the money spent will still be well within the original bargain. Just don't get the bug and pick up too many vintage machines, it can easily happen. They don't sell that easily, but cleaned and sorted out they tend to go. It depens on how you look at it, you get a very smooth, solid and capable machine for much less than any new. The old cast iron straight stitches are in a league of their own among domestic machines, they will stand up to a lot of use, even if you push them a bit they will be fine. If you add a freearm model with zigzag and maybe a few other stitch patterns you will hardly miss anything. You don't need to spend any money right away, it can wait.
Last edited by Mickey2; 06-18-2020 at 01:00 PM.
#29
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 862
I'm afraid it's too late to not get the bug....although I am only about 25 machines in, so maybe there's a cure.
I am probably going to give this machine to my sister who used to sew on a treadle years ago, so it will be money well spent.
I appreciate you finding the correct bobbin!
I am probably going to give this machine to my sister who used to sew on a treadle years ago, so it will be money well spent.
I appreciate you finding the correct bobbin!
#30
Joe, sometimes you can find rotary attachments that have bobbins in with them. I tried to search for some on ebay and couldn't find any with bobbins in them, at least not for this machine. I did find some attachments that I believe will work for your (sister's) machine at https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-vint...oAAOSwyEJe52xc They don't show the bottom, where I think is what models it would be for is shown. Sometimes those, too, are hard to read and usually stamped in red ink (at least in my experience).
Yes, that machine takes CC1221 needles. There are some original needles size 16 for NHR at https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Free-West...AAAOSwKfZd8fMZ Of course, you can alter a 15x1 as indicated in one of my previous posts. Also I think there are videos about doing that. I have read mixed reviews about using 206x13 for the CC1221 needle
I don't know if you have a Featherweight or at least any bobbins for one, but I think it will fit. I don't know if it will work on the bobbin winder or not. There is a picture of the bobbin cases of a White and a Free Westinghouse/New Home at I've found some random things I can't match with their machines. Can anyone help me? The manual I have for the NHR shows a bobbin much like the Featherweight bobbin. I have a Junker & Ruh Model R that takes bobbins like a Wheeler & Wilson bobbin that doesn't have a bobbin winder. I wound the one bobbin I have with a Simplicity Sidewinder and have taken a few stitches with it.
Those have weird bobbin cases but with the 'finger' on the top, it is kind of hard not to at least get it oriented correctly. However, it might be a little trickier to get it situated correctly.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Yes, that machine takes CC1221 needles. There are some original needles size 16 for NHR at https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Free-West...AAAOSwKfZd8fMZ Of course, you can alter a 15x1 as indicated in one of my previous posts. Also I think there are videos about doing that. I have read mixed reviews about using 206x13 for the CC1221 needle
I don't know if you have a Featherweight or at least any bobbins for one, but I think it will fit. I don't know if it will work on the bobbin winder or not. There is a picture of the bobbin cases of a White and a Free Westinghouse/New Home at I've found some random things I can't match with their machines. Can anyone help me? The manual I have for the NHR shows a bobbin much like the Featherweight bobbin. I have a Junker & Ruh Model R that takes bobbins like a Wheeler & Wilson bobbin that doesn't have a bobbin winder. I wound the one bobbin I have with a Simplicity Sidewinder and have taken a few stitches with it.
Those have weird bobbin cases but with the 'finger' on the top, it is kind of hard not to at least get it oriented correctly. However, it might be a little trickier to get it situated correctly.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

