Singer 201
08-06-2015, 07:05 AM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly
The centennial badge doesn't automatically mean the machine is a 1952. The badge has been found on machines dating from 1949 to 1953 or 54. I've read theories and speculations as to why, and lots of debating over whether a 1952 machine without the badge is a centennial or not and whether a badged machine from a year other than '52 is a true centennial. I really have no opinion either way but it's all been interesting reading.
Cari
Cari
08-06-2015, 08:58 AM
#13
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Originally Posted by maviskw
My 221 has a centennial badge that has 1851-1951 printed on it. I didn't know there were other "centennials".
Cari
08-06-2015, 12:09 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
Originally Posted by miriam
Tammi doesn't take out the tension pin in her video and clean it with denatured alcohol. I have seen those pins stick but good with dried up oil. http://www.archaicarcane.com/ I'm sure she is going to beat me up now... and someone is going to say nobody ever oils those pins. I don't know why but they do get sticky at least around here.
The reason you don't see me take it out and clean it on the video is that I don't clean anything on video! You will see it as a separate part on the off machine disassembly video, but not on the on machine disassembly. That's strictly because my videos are stream of consciousness. The videos are pretty close to exactly the same as they would be if I was teaching in person - with variances to the wording but the same process. I don't oil that pin personally though. I don't oil anything on the tensioner. That said, there was a comment on one of my videos that talked about the need to oil all of these parts to prevent rust. I live in such an arid climate that I don't see the sort of rusting that others do and I find that the plating is enough to keep the parts rust free here.
I still stand by my theory that some of that old caked on oil isn't oil. I think it's the anti-corrosion film applied to the machine for transport. The first steps in the service manuals of old are to the effect of "Wipe all traces of the anti-corrosion film from the machine, paying special attention to the tensioner and hook area." I think many technicians wiped off traces in the visible areas and poorly at that, and that's what became the base for all of that stuff that sticks and hardens to cement especially in the "creases" of the machines.
08-06-2015, 08:33 PM
#15
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane
I still stand by my theory that some of that old caked on oil isn't oil. I think it's the anti-corrosion film applied to the machine for transport. The first steps in the service manuals of old are to the effect of "Wipe all traces of the anti-corrosion film from the machine, paying special attention to the tensioner and hook area." I think many technicians wiped off traces in the visible areas and poorly at that, and that's what became the base for all of that stuff that sticks and hardens to cement especially in the "creases" of the machines.
Cari
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