Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Yeah it was my new Honda Fit. I'm ok just ache. The alcohol didn't faze the decals - I was surprised. I wonder how it will work on my Singer 99 with piles of the tar stuff.
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
I hope the nitwit that hit you has good insurance. Both of you need fixed now.
Well, I'm going to try it on that 15 of mine. If it cleans it up I WILL BE THRILLED. It's a good decent machine, just icky ugly because of that tar stuff. I can't even bare to sell it cos of that.
Joe
Well, I'm going to try it on that 15 of mine. If it cleans it up I WILL BE THRILLED. It's a good decent machine, just icky ugly because of that tar stuff. I can't even bare to sell it cos of that.
Joe
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Martinsville, Indiana
Posts: 1,430
Thanks Jan. It's interesting, some people say to use WD-40 for certain things. I have used it to get screws unstuck, for example. Very careful not to get it near paintwork. Is that the reason for your emphasis, or is there some other reason not to use it that I should be aware of?
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
WD-40 residue will gum up the works at some point. Use Tri-Flow - bicycle shops carry it and you can get it mail order. It is expensive but worth every penny. You have to remember to shake the stuff though. It will free up the tight screws. Yesterday when I was working on the clone I had stuck throat plate screws. I put a little Tri-Flow on it and kept oiling the rest of the machine. Then I tried the screws again and they turned just fine. Same on the balance wheel. It was stuck but good - T-F got it loose. It seems to cut the dried up oil just fine and does no other damage. You do not need a big bottle and you do not need spray - just get a little drip bottle.
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Does anybody know how to open the top on a Singer 6215C??? Does anybody know where to find an adjusters/service manual? I located a user's manual. No info in there - I think they were trying to keep the service guys in line. I'm thinking the machine might be ok but shouldn't the top moving thingies get oils now and again? My shop is getting cluttered up with plastic machines. People gift me with them. I figure give them a sporting chance.
Ah! I think I remember a locksmith saying something about this once. Thanks very much for clarifying, I will definitely invest in some Tri-Flo.
Did you see my post about the CLR cleaning up the bobbin case? I was hoping someone would have had some experience with this. Especially as there may be a reason not to use it that I'm not sure about...
Did you see my post about the CLR cleaning up the bobbin case? I was hoping someone would have had some experience with this. Especially as there may be a reason not to use it that I'm not sure about...
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
I have never used it but you can bet I will be testing out CLR - I use Evap-o-rust from Harbor Freight - it wasn't very expensive. I think I've had the same can for quite a while.
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Does anybody know how to open the top on a Singer 6215C??? Does anybody know where to find an adjusters/service manual? I located a user's manual. No info in there - I think they were trying to keep the service guys in line. I'm thinking the machine might be ok but shouldn't the top moving thingies get oils now and again? My shop is getting cluttered up with plastic machines. People gift me with them. I figure give them a sporting chance.
Then there is one screw through the top at the left end, and two screws through the top at the right end.
After that you have to remove the knob from the stitch length lever and then wriggle the top off.
Now, since you can't figure it out yours might not have the screws on the top. The few pics of that model I found are so small I couldn't see what I was looking at.
Could you post a couple close ups of the top and front?
I can tell you that the internal parts are stamped sheet metal and plastic. There isn't much to lube on the sheet metal, but the plastic "might" have been greased in the past. I had to clean the old grease off the gears in our machine because it had become stiff and gummy. Tri-Flow grease did wonders after that.
The shafts are steel and pass through bushings in the aluminum body. T/F helps there too.
And under the nose piece there are many moving ZZ mechanisms you can't see well, but if you can get the T/F oil to them you'll think you just got a new machine.
Will try to find better pix and or manuals.
Joe
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