What can I say--Blush, head down
08-28-2013, 06:02 AM
#11
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,633
Originally Posted by Macybaby
That fits a Featherweight - please do not cut it!!!
08-28-2013, 11:37 AM
#15
Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Windy NE Oregon
Posts: 533
Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane
If you flip that table over, you'll see that its 2 screws to remove each of the two brackets for the FW.
I would take those off, get some flat stock, drill holes in the FS to match the existing ones in the wood.
No need to cut anything.
Maybe make a 3rd, to support the machine at the front too. The FW is about the same height as the 301, so this should work... Just make sure that the length is right. I think it is, but my FW and 301 are both tucked away at the moment.
This way, if / when you end up with a FW, you can go back to its original state, or leave it convertible. And you don't ruin the resale value.
For the wood, try some Murphy's oil soap. Let it dry completely, give it a very light sand, clean it with a tack cloth and apply some Howard Feed N Wax. If you want to stain and seal, do that before the Feed N Wax.
I would take those off, get some flat stock, drill holes in the FS to match the existing ones in the wood.
No need to cut anything.
Maybe make a 3rd, to support the machine at the front too. The FW is about the same height as the 301, so this should work... Just make sure that the length is right. I think it is, but my FW and 301 are both tucked away at the moment.
This way, if / when you end up with a FW, you can go back to its original state, or leave it convertible. And you don't ruin the resale value.
For the wood, try some Murphy's oil soap. Let it dry completely, give it a very light sand, clean it with a tack cloth and apply some Howard Feed N Wax. If you want to stain and seal, do that before the Feed N Wax.
I just could never bring myself to harm a vintage piece like this, so no worries on that thought all.
I will have to start on the massive rust project first, I think with all of the horizontal pieces it will have to be Naval Jelly, anything small enough to take off I will use Evapo-rust on. What really worries me are the leg hinges, how to get them free of rust. Thank You again.
08-28-2013, 11:46 AM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
Originally Posted by Windblown
AArcane, Thank you so much this was exactly what I had in mind, when I was try to explain about it. My 301 is a short bed so it will fit in here just fine.
I just could never bring myself to harm a vintage piece like this, so no worries on that thought all.
I will have to start on the massive rust project first, I think with all of the horizontal pieces it will have to be Naval Jelly, anything small enough to take off I will use Evapo-rust on. What really worries me are the leg hinges, how to get them free of rust. Thank You again.
I just could never bring myself to harm a vintage piece like this, so no worries on that thought all.
I will have to start on the massive rust project first, I think with all of the horizontal pieces it will have to be Naval Jelly, anything small enough to take off I will use Evapo-rust on. What really worries me are the leg hinges, how to get them free of rust. Thank You again.
Hmmm... I might have to do this myself.
The hinges or the springs that hold them open or closed? I think almost all of it will come apart and can be soaked or uh.... jellied. The springs can be bought from Glenn Williams in Florida, or you can make them with music wire and bake them in the oven to "strain relieve" them. DH did this for me for one hinge and a spring (discontinued) for the bobbin winder on my 115.
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