What do I need for the Workroom?
05-30-2015, 02:46 AM
#21
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,133
extendable magnet - that sounds like a good idea. We already have one that gets used a lot in the shop and around worksites to pick up nails out of the dirt.
I'm sure there will be screws landing on teh floor and bouncing under the work bench . . .
I'm sure there will be screws landing on teh floor and bouncing under the work bench . . .
05-30-2015, 04:17 AM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
An extendable magnet will work, but if you want to maximize your search time covering the territory of where a small screw can get to, you’re better off going with an old-style fly swatter with the wire handle and plastic flapper.
By placing flat rectangular ceramic magnets back-to-back all along the bottom edge of the plastic flapper, you can make a 4”-wide sweep with every probe. And, the flexibility of the plastic flapper will aid in getting into hard-to-reach areas. When you absolutely HAVE to find that little screw, you need all the advantage you can get.
Any thought of using the modified fly swatter to swat a fly will disappear shortly after the first time of using it to swat a pesky fly on your ankle. It will become a dedicated tool for one job only after that time....
CD in Oklahoma
By placing flat rectangular ceramic magnets back-to-back all along the bottom edge of the plastic flapper, you can make a 4”-wide sweep with every probe. And, the flexibility of the plastic flapper will aid in getting into hard-to-reach areas. When you absolutely HAVE to find that little screw, you need all the advantage you can get.
Any thought of using the modified fly swatter to swat a fly will disappear shortly after the first time of using it to swat a pesky fly on your ankle. It will become a dedicated tool for one job only after that time....
CD in Oklahoma
05-30-2015, 04:29 AM
#23
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
A couple of sizes of split-blade screw starters will be handy.
I’ve learned to avoid magnetic screwdrivers for working on sewing machines. While a magnetized driver sounds like a good idea, I’ve dropped more screws using one than not. You can’t turn the magnetism on or off, and the blade tries to stick to everything it’s not supposed to stick to, knocking the screw loose.
If a screw must be held to the driver tip to be inserted, use a split-blade screw starter. Most sewing machine screws are either flat-blade screws, or combination flat-blade/Phillips head screws.
CD in Oklahoma
I’ve learned to avoid magnetic screwdrivers for working on sewing machines. While a magnetized driver sounds like a good idea, I’ve dropped more screws using one than not. You can’t turn the magnetism on or off, and the blade tries to stick to everything it’s not supposed to stick to, knocking the screw loose.
If a screw must be held to the driver tip to be inserted, use a split-blade screw starter. Most sewing machine screws are either flat-blade screws, or combination flat-blade/Phillips head screws.
CD in Oklahoma
05-30-2015, 05:43 AM
#24
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
Just in case anyone is interested, to manage all of the screws, covers, and parts for each machine that I work on, I use the following containers:
Small Re-sealable Plastic Bags (used 2x2 and 2x3 parts bags)
Small Microwave Bowls (tapered, stackable)
Small Plastic Containers (old “Wipes” disposable containers)
Large Plastic Tubs (old hospital patient tubs found in yardsales)
When initially removing covers and parts from a sewing machine, it’s not always evident how long the covers or parts will remain off of the machine, so I handle each of them from the get-go as if it will be weeks before re-assembly. Multiple containers are available, empty, and free of lint, oil, and grease at the beginning.
An example would be, servicing a Singer 301A, beginning with top cover removal. The spool of thread is removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The two top cover screws are extracted and placed in a small MW bowl as they come out. The top cover is removed and placed in a large hospital tub. The screws are then removed from the MW bowl and placed in a small zip bag, which is then placed on top of the cover within the tub. The face cover is removed and placed in the large tub. The bottom cover thumbnut and felt washer are removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The bottom cover is cleaned of lint and lubricants, and placed in the large tub. The needle is removed and placed in the small (wipes) container. The slide plate, needle plate, bobbin, and bobbin case are removed and placed together in a small MW bowl. The upper tension assembly is removed and placed in a second MW bowl, stacked on top of the first MW bowl. Hook removal is common on a 301A to remove thread trapped in the hook, so it would be removed and placed in a third MW bowl, stacked on top of the other two MW bowls. Additional parts (if required) are removed using the same procedure.
The idea is, large parts (covers) need a large container to hold them, smaller one-of-a-kind parts (bottom thumbnut, needle) that shouldn’t be confused with one another can all be collected together in a smaller container, and small parts assemblies (upper tension) that will require subsequent disassembly are captured in a small MW bowl. Keeping the screws separated is most important, so bagging them along with covers, or corralling them in a small bowl tends to keep them from mingling.
If, at any point along the line, damaged parts are identified (requiring time for parts harvest or ordering), the containers can usually all be nestled in the large tub or under the arm of the machine to keep everything together. The machine and all of its separated parts can then be moved off of the bench to a storage location.
CD in Oklahoma
Small Re-sealable Plastic Bags (used 2x2 and 2x3 parts bags)
Small Microwave Bowls (tapered, stackable)
Small Plastic Containers (old “Wipes” disposable containers)
Large Plastic Tubs (old hospital patient tubs found in yardsales)
When initially removing covers and parts from a sewing machine, it’s not always evident how long the covers or parts will remain off of the machine, so I handle each of them from the get-go as if it will be weeks before re-assembly. Multiple containers are available, empty, and free of lint, oil, and grease at the beginning.
An example would be, servicing a Singer 301A, beginning with top cover removal. The spool of thread is removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The two top cover screws are extracted and placed in a small MW bowl as they come out. The top cover is removed and placed in a large hospital tub. The screws are then removed from the MW bowl and placed in a small zip bag, which is then placed on top of the cover within the tub. The face cover is removed and placed in the large tub. The bottom cover thumbnut and felt washer are removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The bottom cover is cleaned of lint and lubricants, and placed in the large tub. The needle is removed and placed in the small (wipes) container. The slide plate, needle plate, bobbin, and bobbin case are removed and placed together in a small MW bowl. The upper tension assembly is removed and placed in a second MW bowl, stacked on top of the first MW bowl. Hook removal is common on a 301A to remove thread trapped in the hook, so it would be removed and placed in a third MW bowl, stacked on top of the other two MW bowls. Additional parts (if required) are removed using the same procedure.
The idea is, large parts (covers) need a large container to hold them, smaller one-of-a-kind parts (bottom thumbnut, needle) that shouldn’t be confused with one another can all be collected together in a smaller container, and small parts assemblies (upper tension) that will require subsequent disassembly are captured in a small MW bowl. Keeping the screws separated is most important, so bagging them along with covers, or corralling them in a small bowl tends to keep them from mingling.
If, at any point along the line, damaged parts are identified (requiring time for parts harvest or ordering), the containers can usually all be nestled in the large tub or under the arm of the machine to keep everything together. The machine and all of its separated parts can then be moved off of the bench to a storage location.
CD in Oklahoma
05-30-2015, 08:10 AM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Nice thorough system CD.
I use things like plastic jars and butter containers for my small parts. I'm not nearly as well set up for working on machines as you. My shop also does duty as my woodworking shop so my workspace isn't dedicated to just machines.
Rodney
I use things like plastic jars and butter containers for my small parts. I'm not nearly as well set up for working on machines as you. My shop also does duty as my woodworking shop so my workspace isn't dedicated to just machines.
Rodney
05-30-2015, 09:25 AM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
Thanks. I just get really ticked if I can’t find the right screws, or can’t remember what order I removed things when going in deep, especially if it’s been a while since the tear-down. The stacking MW bowls help with that. It narrows things down pretty much to screw lengths when similar screws of different lengths are involved, such as with some cover screws. Trial and error solves that problem.
The container type is not as important as how they’re used. Keeping screws together with what they mount is the key. If I lay a screw or any other part on my bench surface, I’ll figure out a way to knock it off onto the floor without even trying.
I use the work bench shown (an old industrial serger stand) mostly for sewing machines, but there will be an occasional vacuum cleaner or store display stand repair getting time on it too. Plus the jewelry, belt, and purse repairs at times. And, there are times when I have a machine disassembled on the bench, and an “emergency sewing machine repair” comes in that gets immediate attention on the same bench. Then too, when harvesting parts from an old machine, screws from one machine will usually look like the screws from the machine being repaired, so I want to make sure that I don’t mix parts. Every machine gets its own set of containers.
I also didn’t mention that I photograph every machine and its cords, control, case, bag, tote-sack, 5-gallon can, or whatever came in with it, before I ever start in on repairs. Then, I put a small string-tag with the sewing machine model number and owner’s name on each item before stowing those things away. It has proven well worth the time.
CD in Oklahoma
The container type is not as important as how they’re used. Keeping screws together with what they mount is the key. If I lay a screw or any other part on my bench surface, I’ll figure out a way to knock it off onto the floor without even trying.
I use the work bench shown (an old industrial serger stand) mostly for sewing machines, but there will be an occasional vacuum cleaner or store display stand repair getting time on it too. Plus the jewelry, belt, and purse repairs at times. And, there are times when I have a machine disassembled on the bench, and an “emergency sewing machine repair” comes in that gets immediate attention on the same bench. Then too, when harvesting parts from an old machine, screws from one machine will usually look like the screws from the machine being repaired, so I want to make sure that I don’t mix parts. Every machine gets its own set of containers.
I also didn’t mention that I photograph every machine and its cords, control, case, bag, tote-sack, 5-gallon can, or whatever came in with it, before I ever start in on repairs. Then, I put a small string-tag with the sewing machine model number and owner’s name on each item before stowing those things away. It has proven well worth the time.
CD in Oklahoma
05-30-2015, 09:48 AM
#28
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
I keep a bunch of double ended magnets I swiped from the toy box - I think there are steel balls that are supposed to go with them but I put one end of the magnet on the throat plate and the screws on the other end and keep them together. Or I screw the screws back into the machine after I remove the part.
05-30-2015, 04:07 PM
#30
Power Poster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 11,198
What a great thread. It appears as if we are moving to be closer to one of the sons. We are scheduled to close on the house in June but won't move for a few more months. Anyway Mr Stitchnripper insisted that I have my own room for sewing/quilting. He wanted a walk out basement which is unheard of where we live now. The new to us house has that with...a workroom and bench already there! Imagine my excitement. As most of you may know I am very much of a novice but I have managed to clean up and get running well several vintage machines with the help of all (or a lot) of you. I have a motor I want to expore which will be new territory for me after we move. So this thread is very helpful for me.
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