YUCK! What can I use on this mess?
09-27-2013, 05:14 AM
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Weeeelllllllll, for gunky parts like that I use:
Sewing machine oil, but that doesn't usually clean the varnished oil very good, so then I go to -
Denatured alcohol as it cuts the old varnished oil and evaporated quickly, but it doesn't always work, so then I get out the big stuff and use Hoppe's #9 gun cleaning solvent. That has not failed to do the job.
I use q-tips, cotton balls, soft cloths and tooth brushes. I do not use steel wool because the steel fibers can get stuck in parts of the machine and jam it up. Also sometimes those steel wool pads just disintegrate and you have a nasty mess.
I am not a restorer so I don't always want them to shine like a new machine. I just want them clean enough to work properly.
Joe
Sewing machine oil, but that doesn't usually clean the varnished oil very good, so then I go to -
Denatured alcohol as it cuts the old varnished oil and evaporated quickly, but it doesn't always work, so then I get out the big stuff and use Hoppe's #9 gun cleaning solvent. That has not failed to do the job.
I use q-tips, cotton balls, soft cloths and tooth brushes. I do not use steel wool because the steel fibers can get stuck in parts of the machine and jam it up. Also sometimes those steel wool pads just disintegrate and you have a nasty mess.
I am not a restorer so I don't always want them to shine like a new machine. I just want them clean enough to work properly.
Joe
09-27-2013, 08:09 AM
#22
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Originally Posted by J Miller
I do not use steel wool because the steel fibers can get stuck in parts of the machine and jam it up. Also sometimes those steel wool pads just disintegrate and you have a nasty mess.Joe
I frequently suggest this but also forget to provide the caution. THANK you Joe.
I am starting to use the "synthetic" steel wool. (Green, Blue, and Brown scrubbie pads) they do not have the residual issue as badly (a little though) but they also do not work quite as well.
09-27-2013, 08:58 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NW IL
Posts: 493
Originally Posted by Sunflowerzz
I feel better now. From now on if they will let me I will turn those machines inside out before I buy another one. Thanks again everyone for the great answers.
09-27-2013, 10:23 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
Originally Posted by caroloto
For me the fun is getting those sewing machine looking almost new and working the way they were when they were new!
09-27-2013, 06:53 PM
#25
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Far Northern California
Posts: 1,020
Originally Posted by SteveH
I use Steel Wool all the time and I can tell you for certain that Joe is SPOT ON. about this. If you use the old stuff you have to be REALLY careful about the cleanup. There is a reason folks invented new products to replace it.
I frequently suggest this but also forget to provide the caution. THANK you Joe.
I am starting to use the "synthetic" steel wool. (Green, Blue, and Brown scrubbie pads) they do not have the residual issue as badly (a little though) but they also do not work quite as well.
I frequently suggest this but also forget to provide the caution. THANK you Joe.
I am starting to use the "synthetic" steel wool. (Green, Blue, and Brown scrubbie pads) they do not have the residual issue as badly (a little though) but they also do not work quite as well.
Originally Posted by caroloto
For me the fun is getting those sewing machine looking almost new and working the way they were when they were new!
09-27-2013, 10:32 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
Originally Posted by SteveH
Be careful using this sequence... Kerosene is a great oil breakdown chemical, but for the same reason, if you do not get ALL of it out of the little nooks and crannies and between moving parts, you will be breaking down your new oil soon...
I only use the harsh oil cutter methods with parts that I am removing, so that I can be sure to clean it all.
I only use the harsh oil cutter methods with parts that I am removing, so that I can be sure to clean it all.
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/web...pe=MSDS&lang=E
I looked up CAS# 64742-47-8 (Heavy Aliphatic Solvent), and it is kerosene. I think that's why it works so well to free things up.
09-28-2013, 07:36 AM
#27
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Far Northern California
Posts: 1,020
Originally Posted by Sheluma
Tri-flow is 30% kerosene. Here's the MSDS:
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/web...pe=MSDS&lang=E
I looked up CAS# 64742-47-8 (Heavy Aliphatic Solvent), and it is kerosene. I think that's why it works so well to free things up.
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/web...pe=MSDS&lang=E
I looked up CAS# 64742-47-8 (Heavy Aliphatic Solvent), and it is kerosene. I think that's why it works so well to free things up.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone
Last edited by Sunflowerzz; 09-28-2013 at 07:48 AM.
09-28-2013, 07:55 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Far Northern California
Posts: 1,020
Originally Posted by nstitches4u
Sunflowerzz, I have no idea how to clean it, but your little bug had me swatting at my computer screen! lol
Originally Posted by DOTTYMO
I have just spent 5minutes trying to kill the fly
Maybe the pic below? I hate how I photograph but it is me after all.Last edited by Sunflowerzz; 09-28-2013 at 07:59 AM.
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