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Thread: 2012-2013 Dear Jane Stickle 2d Cyber Party Pictures and Discussion

  1. #1331
    Senior Member Cre8tvlwyr's Avatar
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    I know what you mean about those civ war fabrics, katybob. we've said this before and sometimes I feel like redoing the real dull ones but I did find out early enough about the brightness of the CW fabrics that I made a mix and with the variation of background in there it should be ok. But if you have through row I done already anyway, that would make a great size quilt!! [plus think of it this way - if you really want a blue one..... you'll still only be making 'only 2' at once!] If you want it a little bigger than it is with the blocks you have, consider Bonnie Hunter's 'storm at sea' sashing - awesome!! the sashing strips finish 2 x 4 1/2 - adding 1 1/2" to the width of all sashing strips from the original - so for 13 blocks across that would be 18" - I won't kid you - lots of work!

    I will upload two of the three pictures I took yesterday [just looked at my files and the 3rd one disappeared!] First here are D11 and D8 - totally by hand. I used a little EPP on D11 and appliqued the center box and side diamonds on top. [As I write this down I'm wondering if I already posted these two?? there were no pics in my computer file til yesterday ;( ]

    Name:  d8.JPG
Views: 184
Size:  1.37 MBNext are E1 and E2 also by hand except for the pieced border.Name:  E1.JPG
Views: 189
Size:  1.35 MBI had taken pictures of my D6 'challenge' and D10 'battlefield.' I absolutely loved the D10 - took me a while to find the fabric because I was determined to get something with blues and reds like the original because that was on the real battlefield. D6 -go ahead and laugh - was the most challenging block so far for me! I know one of the easiest, but I had a 5" charm square of a pink I wanted to use and that was all I had of that fabric. If you look at the original, you will see it is not made like the pattern or like 'that quilt,' it really does have a border separate from the sashing that gives it the extended octagon shape. When I cut the corners off, I didn't really cut enough off to get the right effect, so when I added the light strip all the way around I realized that only a little of it would show - I mean 1/16th - 1/32 of an inch!! on two of the sides if I take the right seam off and those triangles will get almost completely lost and this was the third time I fiddled with it. Thinking of bringing those corners in slightly, taking 1/8" seam only on that triangle and putting wider border strips around it. I will re-take the pictures today and post - possibly go get camera now as I am bummed. Yes, this does mean I am still 5 blocks behind

  2. #1332
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    I think they look good, very attractive in fact. But since I am gazillian behind and I don't have the book here at work, I don't know what they are "supposed to" look. I really like these.

  3. #1333
    Senior Member Cre8tvlwyr's Avatar
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    So found out I never put that picture in my picture file....here it is - D10 and D6. [thought I'd better post em soon so my explanation and pics aren't several posts apart!Name:  d10.JPG
Views: 208
Size:  1.36 MB

  4. #1334
    Super Member Fraew's Avatar
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    Nicely done Gus! In true Jane style too.
    Fraew

    "I don't buy vintage quilts. By the time I finish the quilts I've started they've already become antiques." ~ Mark Lipinski
    Link to my albums: http://www.quiltingboard.com/members...85-albums.html

  5. #1335
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    Cre8tvlwyr: I love the fabric you chose for this block, (the blue/red print). Gives the illusion of movement.

  6. #1336
    Senior Member Cre8tvlwyr's Avatar
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    Thanks Fraew and Jeanine I forgot to say how I decided to sew D10 - not the same as thatquilt...
    I love PP'ing but as I've said before, if there's a way to avoid tearing paper while still preserving the accuracy, do it! For D10, the 3 1/2" square ruler was my best friend! I cut a 3 1/2" square of print and background. On the wrong side of light fabric I divided it into 4 squares [each measuring 1 3/4"], I drew a line connecting the midway points on the sides [at the 1 3/4" pts] making a 'square on point.' Sewing a 1/4" seam on either side of that square resulted in the 8 halfsquare triangles that make up the two inner squares. The remaining two squares I cut two 1 1/2" squares out of background and [4] 1 1/2" squares of print - cutting these 4 once diagonally and sewing them around light center squares. Once you've constructed these squares trim them if nec. to 2" and when sewn together, they should measure exactly 3 1/2" - I cut 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" for the sides - also made 4 half square triangles starting out with 1 1/2" squares - I then had to 'offset them' a little - you want to make sure that the points of the light triangle will touch the 1/4" seam line without getting cut off.

  7. #1337
    Senior Member Cre8tvlwyr's Avatar
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    I just finished D9 and thought I would share some pics of how I decided to do it - not PP! This block is so EZ if you just measure, measure... Most pieces are multiples of 1 1/4" - actually they finish as squares between 5/8 and 6/8", but with the two seam allowances, this is just under 1 1/4" [hope I'm not loosing anyone!] I noticed that the 4 corners have sections that are light-print-light if you first ignore the very corner triangle. so I cut 2 light strips 1 1/4" x 5" and one print. I first sewed a print to a light long sides together. When I assemble pieces this way I set my stitch length down to 2.0 from the usual 2.4 on my machine so that it doesn't fall apart when I cut down to the right size. Press toward the dark, trim the dark down to 7/8" and then attach other light. Next, cut this assembly into 4 sections each measuring 1 1/4".
    I saw that the center included two print-light-print sections so I assembled two more sections at once, cutting 2 print 2 1/2" x 1 1/4" as you can see.Name:  DSC_0822.JPG
Views: 224
Size:  1.40 MBI cut four print sections measuring 2 1/2" x 1 1/4" which I attached to the light-print-light pieces. I also attached a piece of light to the sides of two of these sections to cover the setting triangles. I divided the print-light-print into 2 sections 1 1/4" x 2 1/2" and sewed a light strip 1 1/4" x 2 1/2" in between - this is the center.Name:  DSC_0824.JPG
Views: 220
Size:  1.31 MBassemble as shown adding two other rectangles of light at the last two corners, trim down to 4 1/2" [the setting triangles are perfect!] and add an inch strip all the way round. You will have to trim only slightly.Name:  DSC_0826.JPG
Views: 188
Size:  1.34 MB

  8. #1338
    Senior Member Cre8tvlwyr's Avatar
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    It's been a sewing kinda day [aside from the PT for the knee!!]
    Just finished E3 and hope to handsew E4 tonight using EPP... on a roll only two behind!

    For E3 I made the four center hst [halfsquare triangles] out of 2 1/2" squares of both fabrics, right side together & stitched 1/4" on either side of one diagonal line [hope all understand this that need to ] I also made four hst out of 2" squares of fabric for the outer corners and skewed them - that is I made sure there was more white than print fabric showing. I line up the diagonal line with the 7/8" marks on either side of my 3 1/2" square ruler - the print part of the hst was toward the 0-corner of the ruler. After making the pinwheel center and trimming to 3 1/4" [center point @ 1 5/8"] I cut 4 side pieces 3 1/4" x 1 1/2". The print of the triangle should line up with your inner seam that will be sewn to the center pinwheel. When you have attached first the two sides and then top/bottom borders with triangle corner squares as shown, trim your block to 5"Name:  DSC_0827.JPG
Views: 184
Size:  1.32 MB

  9. #1339
    Senior Member Jates's Avatar
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    I'm still plugging along on my Barkertown Jane. I'm trying to add a photo but I don't know if I'll manage to do it with this new site....still struggling with it. Anyways I love seeing everyone's pictures of your blocks. They are all beautiful and truly inspiring!
    Working on Barkertown Jane

  10. #1340
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    I agree, seeing everyone's pictures are inspiring!

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