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I have a Brother PE770 and just took it out of the box. Haven't used it yet but I have heard good things I also have a Brother LB6800 and have made many quilts with that machine and also used the embroidery module that came with it. I bought the PE770 because it had the larger hoops.

My friend bought the PE770 and loves it. She got the low end embroidery program and now wished she bought the higher end. She has found her machine to be VERY user friendly and so much is available on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk2gXL3QXPw

Some great tip for hooping.

Quote:

Originally Posted by grandmasieg (Post 7391603)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk2gXL3QXPw

Some great tip for hooping.

That is the same process I use except I made my "hoop collars" out of that bumpy rubber shelf liner.

Cari

Quote:

Originally Posted by linholz (Post 7391526)

I also have the Brother LB6800 Project Runway. I am learning how to use the sewing machine but will need to embroider the name on the cuffs of my Christmas stockings. That part is kind of freeking me out!

Lou

Quote:

Originally Posted by mommessy (Post 7349919)

I am having so much fun with in the hoop designs! Who knew you could make such neat things!

Soooooo pretty!
Louise

Anyone here has the Janome 350 e memory craft ? I am still relatively new to the embroidery,but my driving ( lol ) gets better and better.....I am wondering how to allian and make same design on both sides of a shirt or something , so that they will be really allian ??? Any tips?

I know what you mean about getting a machine with the largest hoop you can afford. Mine is 4" X 4" and I get frustrated when I find a design I really like and my hoop is too small. Maybe some day when money is not so tight I will be ale to trade this one in and upgrade.

Louise

Quote:

Originally Posted by ania755 (Post 7391803)

I don't have the E 350, but I learned manually years ago. If you can tell me how the 350 centers a hoop, maybe I can help.

The old Pfaffs came with templates for the hoops that showed the center. You lined up the center of the design with the center of the hoop. You could move the center of the hoop manually by using the built in software in the 2170 at least.

To make a template if you don't have one - cut a piece of paper or a substitute the size of the hoop. Put in a design and see where the needle centers. Mark that. Then get a piece of see through plastic - the stuff that some quilters cut templates for cutting from, and measure the center of the hoop both width and length so you can mark them permanently later. Then mark where the needle started the center on the paper on the plastic template which should also be cut to exactly fit in the hoop. Put a pin hole in the center of template.
Make sure it's lined up, then mark your hoop and the template for the exact length and width of the center. On the template - it should be cross hairs.

After it's marked, line up the center of the design with the center of the template. You can also position the template over where you want to embroider and mark the center using a disappearing purple marker. Most designs have the center marked.

This was done when all the machines only had 4x4 hoops. Some had figured out how to split the designs to do a whole jacket back. (Well before software would split designs in the 90's)

My first machine only did 4x4 and I started reading every piece of info I could find on multiple hooping.
Most used the template method.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly (Post 7279767)

I'll use a heavy tear away for the back of a towel if it's a dense design since it holds up better in the hoop but I always use wash away for the top.

I don't know if heavy starching will help with puckering. I figured out after many hours of playing around with my machines that most of my pucker issues were caused by hooping too tight and/or stabilizer issues. I stopped using tear away for most projects, went to a medium weight cut away and I don't hoop most items any more, just the stabilizer. Changing my process solved most of my issues, I rarely have puckering any more. There is so much information and tutorials out there on the net, you just have to figure out which process works best for you.

Cari

I read from Nancy Z. that making sure there is an underlay under the design is the best thing to keep the fuzzy's down. The stabilizer on the bottom and wash away on top is good but after washing it can still have the fuzzy's show back up. she has a you tube on it