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Walking Foot Quandry Genuine or....

Walking Foot Quandry Genuine or....

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Old 04-13-2012, 06:48 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Tartan View Post
I have used masking tape or painter's tape to quilt along. My Bernina has the bar that has a little screw to lock it in place but I haven't used it yet. I think if you can find a walking foot with the guide bar I would find a way to make it work versus a new machine. I would find a piece of plastic tubing (plumbing or pump tube) that would just barely slide onto the bar. I would measure a piece to slip onto the bar before putting it in the hole and then measure another piece to put on the bar after the hole. I would move the pieces in tight to the foot to keep it in place. You could also go around the bar with painter's tape to hold it in place but it would have to be removed later and the bar cleaned?
Thank-you for your kind reply....A new machine is totally out of the question! Even if a dealer offered payments from now until forever on a fixed income that is not desireable much less doable. I'm thinking that with the input so far that the painters tape is the way I'm going to 'learn' to use.
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:05 AM
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I checked on the Viking website and it appears that there was a difference between the 1+ and D1. I do remember that Viking did change the size of the attachment bar on their machines for a short time. The interchangeable foot shows it does not fit your machine. I'd contact Viking and see what foot will fit your machine before I'd buy a generic one, as many people have said those are sometimes a problem. Good Luck
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by onaemtnest View Post
The fact that you verify that the guidebar does not lock into place would indeed be frustrating

Someone in a previous post had the same problem with the guide bar and she ended up using a pinmoor on the end and said it worked like a charm.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:24 PM
  #14  
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I have the 1+ and have generic walking foot and doing ok with it. It has the place for the cross hatch quide seems to hold well. I just check it every so often to make sure it is tight.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:46 AM
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Hi, the dealer is right about the guide bars not staying put. I have them on two walking feet and the same issue with them both. One if the Viking #1 and the other is a Janome. I have the new walking foot for my Ruby but haven't used it yet. I was taught to do the cross hatching by marking the lines and then I just sewed on the lines. I use a sliver of soap on dark fabric or you could use a marking pen. I've also heard of people using the painters blue tape. You are right about the #1 being an awesome machine. It is said to be the best machine ever built. I'm getting ready to sell mine only due to space and money issues and since I have the Ruby but I wish I could keep it. Good luck with you cross hatching. One of the methods I mentioned should work. By the way, I started in the center and worked my way out to the edge and then did the opposite side and then started in the other direction. I used my walking foot without the bars because it kept the fabric from puckering the way using a regular foot would do.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Sally J View Post
Is a Designer 1+ different from a Designer 1? I have the D1 and I bought the interchangeable walking foot 6 months ago and it works fine. I love the guides. I'd check again with about whether it will fit. My machine is also 18 years old so I'm really confused about the difference in machines.
She doesn't have the Designer 1 she has the Viking #1; it was made years ago and considered one of the best machines Viking ever produced. The #1 can't use the new foot. Most people who end up buying a later model keep their #1 because they are so good. I love the documentation that came with mine. I have large binders full of tutorials on how to do things and with my new Viking Ruby I have a small manual about the size of a magazine. It just goes to show how times have changed things; not always for the best.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by romanojg View Post
Hi, the dealer is right about the guide bars not staying put. I have them on two walking feet and the same issue with them both. One if the Viking #1 and the other is a Janome. I have the new walking foot for my Ruby but haven't used it yet. I was taught to do the cross hatching by marking the lines and then I just sewed on the lines. I use a sliver of soap on dark fabric or you could use a marking pen. I've also heard of people using the painters blue tape. You are right about the #1 being an awesome machine. It is said to be the best machine ever built. I'm getting ready to sell mine only due to space and money issues and since I have the Ruby but I wish I could keep it. Good luck with you cross hatching. One of the methods I mentioned should work. By the way, I started in the center and worked my way out to the edge and then did the opposite side and then started in the other direction. I used my walking foot without the bars because it kept the fabric from puckering the way using a regular foot would do.
Hi Judy,
You saved me $89 in trying a genuine foot that would not work as it was designed to do, thank-you! Since I already have the walking foot that I purchased near the same time I bought the machine I guess, all indications are I should just stick with it.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:18 PM
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I use painters tape all the time when cross hatching. It comes in different widths and works fine!
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:39 PM
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I just use masking tape as a guide. No marks to remove later and you get a nice even grid.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:58 PM
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I have Janome machines and they do have the guide bar with their walking foot. (not the Horizon because that walking foot is built in) It stays in place rather well, but I'm a skeptic by nature, so I get out my duct tape. I tear a thin strip and wrap it around the bar on both sides of where it sits in the walking foot. Then it doesn't move at all.
Being the ever-loving fan of duct tape, If my machine didn't have a guide bar, I'd probably find a way to tape one on
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