Bringing Vinnie Back To Life.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Update: Have done three or four coats of Shellac on Vinnie, and now I plan to let him dry for approx a week, and then naptha-clean and the wax-polish him. In general it went quite well. I got the hang, by the end of just the right amount (I think!) of shellac and linseed.
One thing that happened was that some dust stuck into the finish over the days between coats, and did not want to blow or wipe off. I suspect I may have used too much linseed in the first coat or two, as a beginner, and this there are some dust fibers nicely embedded in the shellac finish. Oops.
My instinct is to let it completely dry, and then to give it a light buffing prior to wax-polishing. For this, I have super fine sandpaper, 1000 grit, or I have a white synthetic buffing abrasive, which I bought at the shellac shoppe; apparently this is used in French polishing wood. It is similar to the scrubby side of a scrubby dish sponge.
Glenn, would you suggest any of that as a good thing to do, or is there a better solution?
Would I simply buff, then naptha, then wax? Or, would you recommend to buff, then another shellac coat, and then cure again and -then- naptha and wax?
Thanks in advance...
C.
One thing that happened was that some dust stuck into the finish over the days between coats, and did not want to blow or wipe off. I suspect I may have used too much linseed in the first coat or two, as a beginner, and this there are some dust fibers nicely embedded in the shellac finish. Oops.
My instinct is to let it completely dry, and then to give it a light buffing prior to wax-polishing. For this, I have super fine sandpaper, 1000 grit, or I have a white synthetic buffing abrasive, which I bought at the shellac shoppe; apparently this is used in French polishing wood. It is similar to the scrubby side of a scrubby dish sponge.
Glenn, would you suggest any of that as a good thing to do, or is there a better solution?
Would I simply buff, then naptha, then wax? Or, would you recommend to buff, then another shellac coat, and then cure again and -then- naptha and wax?
Thanks in advance...
C.
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
You can do a light buffing with the 1000 grit sand paper but use lots of lubricant with it like a little turp. You can then wipe down with naptha and wax if the area is still dull after waxing you can fernch poish a little more before waxing. You can aso use the rubbing compound and wipe down with naptha and wax. Either way is okay just do what you are most comfortable with. Usually you will have no problem with dust and it might just be in the oil and will wipe off with the naptha. Can't wait to see pics.
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#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
I Fail! I fail French Polishing 101.
I am not sure where I went wrong, exactly. I think perhaps I used too much linseed, for some parts (such as the bobbin winder, also around the serial number) are just sticky, regardless of having used naptha to clean it.
Shall I just clean it again with naptha?
Also, I put a coat of boot wax on it and it looked cruddy, so I naptha'd it again and am back to it being clean, but dull.
There are streaks in it; mind you, this is Just Post Naptha, and I know it can look white in spots prior to waxing; however, will these streaks be okay? Should I do another round of French polish and try to correct my sloppiness?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452321[/ATTACH]
Mechanically, I am giving myself an A-, for he is smooth and clean, whistle clean! I successfully obtained an original hand crank, miraculously in the same decals, even! I cleaned and re-conditioned it, and Vinnie is happy to be cranky. I am still working on the upper tension (I may have the wrong spring... I don't really know!) but I was very pleased when I actually wound a bobbin this afternoon!
I give myself a B+ for Gold Pen Usage. I found a permanent gold paint pen and repaired a few spots on the decals, including the S on Singer in the pin-rash area (see previous photo) and also these wee flowers on the bobbin winder belt guard area:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452322[/ATTACH]
So, there it is, for now. I also am showing a photo of the upper tension spring. I really am quite sure it is the wrong kind... it is just not making sense to me. All input is most welcome. I still don't exactly have my wings yet, and I do not mind being told what to do! Am I just doing something dead-wrong? I know the threading is incorrect; but the spring itself seems useless in terms of catching the thread in any meaningful way.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452323[/ATTACH]
Also I coloured in those gold dots above the tension area, for they were worn. Woo hoo! I coloured dots! ;-)
I am not sure where I went wrong, exactly. I think perhaps I used too much linseed, for some parts (such as the bobbin winder, also around the serial number) are just sticky, regardless of having used naptha to clean it.
Shall I just clean it again with naptha?
Also, I put a coat of boot wax on it and it looked cruddy, so I naptha'd it again and am back to it being clean, but dull.
There are streaks in it; mind you, this is Just Post Naptha, and I know it can look white in spots prior to waxing; however, will these streaks be okay? Should I do another round of French polish and try to correct my sloppiness?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452321[/ATTACH]
Mechanically, I am giving myself an A-, for he is smooth and clean, whistle clean! I successfully obtained an original hand crank, miraculously in the same decals, even! I cleaned and re-conditioned it, and Vinnie is happy to be cranky. I am still working on the upper tension (I may have the wrong spring... I don't really know!) but I was very pleased when I actually wound a bobbin this afternoon!
I give myself a B+ for Gold Pen Usage. I found a permanent gold paint pen and repaired a few spots on the decals, including the S on Singer in the pin-rash area (see previous photo) and also these wee flowers on the bobbin winder belt guard area:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452322[/ATTACH]
So, there it is, for now. I also am showing a photo of the upper tension spring. I really am quite sure it is the wrong kind... it is just not making sense to me. All input is most welcome. I still don't exactly have my wings yet, and I do not mind being told what to do! Am I just doing something dead-wrong? I know the threading is incorrect; but the spring itself seems useless in terms of catching the thread in any meaningful way.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452323[/ATTACH]
Also I coloured in those gold dots above the tension area, for they were worn. Woo hoo! I coloured dots! ;-)
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
You are using to much linseed oil when french polishing and I never said to use boot wax it is not good. It is okay for the irons but not the machine. Use a good car wax only after the shellac has cured for a week or so. You need a lot more french polishing. Some of the streaks look like thay are from a rough rag. Nice job on the gold touch up. Don't worry you have done no harm just cont the french polishing using less linseed oil. The last coat of shellac polish I use no linseed and this will leave a nice shine. Move quickly in a circular motion when polishing with the shellac. Your doing okay just needs a little more work. As I said before this can take some time when learning.
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#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Okay. I will do some more French polish. Less linseed oil.
I used clean t-shirt fabric but it was a bit ribby; this, I think, is what caused the streaks.
BTW the boot wax recommendation came from elsewhere. I don't have car wax, and there was a discussion about carnuba wax being the important ingredient. Also I used shoe/boot polish on my 99k and it looked fabulous. Go figure. I think my problems are pre-waxing anyhow...
I used clean t-shirt fabric but it was a bit ribby; this, I think, is what caused the streaks.
BTW the boot wax recommendation came from elsewhere. I don't have car wax, and there was a discussion about carnuba wax being the important ingredient. Also I used shoe/boot polish on my 99k and it looked fabulous. Go figure. I think my problems are pre-waxing anyhow...
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Boot polish has some leather preservatives in it that can be harmful to shellac. The trick to waxing is letting the shellac cure well. High humidity will cause shellac to turn white also but you should not have to worry about this. I think you are right about the problem being before the waxing but to much oil when applying the shellac. You are doing fine just need a little more practice.
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#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 442
Cecilia and Glenn,
Thank you both for taking me on this interesting journey. I have learned so much and made so many little errors. Thanks to Glenn I have been able to go back and fix the too much oil problem. Yes I tried to mix the oil and alcohol.
Helen Ann
Thank you both for taking me on this interesting journey. I have learned so much and made so many little errors. Thanks to Glenn I have been able to go back and fix the too much oil problem. Yes I tried to mix the oil and alcohol.
Helen Ann
#30
This entire thread could be copied in thread form and saved for use in other forums. The back and forth learning is priceless! Are there rules preventing such usage? I'm not in the mood to make the moderators irritated with me.
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