Kenmore 158 destined for the trash???
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 165
Kenmore 158 destined for the trash???
First, sorry for starting a new thread. But seeing as how this is no longer a tension assembly issue, I thought it appropriate. I'll ask for the other one to be deleted.
Anyway, I do not know what the problem is with this machine.
A little recap....I have been trying to fix this machine for about a year (but in all fairness, I don't work on any of my machines during Sept to early Dec. and end of Jan to May due to school). That said, I cannot get this darned machine to sew property. I have come a long way with it, but now, I cannot get the top stitches to look right. The bottom stitches appear flawless.
I have done the following...changed the needle, verified the needle is in correctly, cleaned the machine, re-oiled the machine, re-threaded the machine (about 1000 times), checked the hook timing (looks right from what I can tell), adjusted the bobbin case tension (was very tight), took off and cleaned (wasn't really dirty) tension assembly. Yet, I still have issues with the top stitches.
Does anyone have any ideas of what else I can check or do? Maybe this machine is destined for the trash, maybe it hates me....I don't know? Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Btw...this is a 158.17033
Bottom stitches. The numbers correspond to the tension number on the dial
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503985[/ATTACH]
Top stitches. Can you see the bottom thread being pulled up? The stitches are best when the tension dial is set to 1 (but some thread can still be seen). This seems abnormally low, especially seeing as how this was flannel fabric.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503986[/ATTACH]
Anyway, I do not know what the problem is with this machine.
A little recap....I have been trying to fix this machine for about a year (but in all fairness, I don't work on any of my machines during Sept to early Dec. and end of Jan to May due to school). That said, I cannot get this darned machine to sew property. I have come a long way with it, but now, I cannot get the top stitches to look right. The bottom stitches appear flawless.
I have done the following...changed the needle, verified the needle is in correctly, cleaned the machine, re-oiled the machine, re-threaded the machine (about 1000 times), checked the hook timing (looks right from what I can tell), adjusted the bobbin case tension (was very tight), took off and cleaned (wasn't really dirty) tension assembly. Yet, I still have issues with the top stitches.
Does anyone have any ideas of what else I can check or do? Maybe this machine is destined for the trash, maybe it hates me....I don't know? Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Btw...this is a 158.17033
Bottom stitches. The numbers correspond to the tension number on the dial
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503985[/ATTACH]
Top stitches. Can you see the bottom thread being pulled up? The stitches are best when the tension dial is set to 1 (but some thread can still be seen). This seems abnormally low, especially seeing as how this was flannel fabric.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]503986[/ATTACH]
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
No it is not destined for the trash. There is a problem but it's not insurmountable. I've tried googling that Kenmore model and couldn't find any pics of the machine. I've got a number of 158 series Kenmores and find them to be a most acceptable group of machines.
Yours is sewing. So just take it slow and be patient. Work on it when you can, put it back on the shelf when the frustration gets to much.
I had one 15 clone that took me 2 years of working on it off and on to get it fixed right. I ended up buying another machine that was mechanically identical and using it to put the first one right. It sews just fine now.
In your other thread you have the top tension out, so check the release pin. Make sure it's free to move without any resistance. If it feels tight or binds then take the pin out and soak the tension in denatured alcohol and clean it good. Then continue with it.
Have you read the tension instructions in the TFSR manual? { http://www.tfsr.org/publications/tec...machine_manual }? There is a lot of info in there.
Now, changing direction for a moment.
Remove the bobbin case. Put a full bobbin in it and thread it through the case tension. Hold the tension over your left hand by the string. If the case falls away the tension is too loose, tighten it a tiny bit at a time. If not, gently bounce the case. Does it drop away a little bit with each bounce? If not, the tension is too tight, loosen it a tiny bit after each test. The tension should be set so the case will drop away a bit with each bounce. I always set my bobbin tension this way first, then go on to the top tension.
Without having the machine in front of me, this is about all I can say. I hope it helps. Always feel free to ask questions. It's how we learn.
Joe
Yours is sewing. So just take it slow and be patient. Work on it when you can, put it back on the shelf when the frustration gets to much.
I had one 15 clone that took me 2 years of working on it off and on to get it fixed right. I ended up buying another machine that was mechanically identical and using it to put the first one right. It sews just fine now.
In your other thread you have the top tension out, so check the release pin. Make sure it's free to move without any resistance. If it feels tight or binds then take the pin out and soak the tension in denatured alcohol and clean it good. Then continue with it.
Have you read the tension instructions in the TFSR manual? { http://www.tfsr.org/publications/tec...machine_manual }? There is a lot of info in there.
Now, changing direction for a moment.
Remove the bobbin case. Put a full bobbin in it and thread it through the case tension. Hold the tension over your left hand by the string. If the case falls away the tension is too loose, tighten it a tiny bit at a time. If not, gently bounce the case. Does it drop away a little bit with each bounce? If not, the tension is too tight, loosen it a tiny bit after each test. The tension should be set so the case will drop away a bit with each bounce. I always set my bobbin tension this way first, then go on to the top tension.
Without having the machine in front of me, this is about all I can say. I hope it helps. Always feel free to ask questions. It's how we learn.
Joe
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 165
Joe, I was not familiar with the tension instructions. Thank you for posting that link. I'll surely check that out. I will try your suggestions with a full-loaded bobbin and the case to verify the tension. I will also maybe take that tension assembly back off and see if I can't get that stud to come out. Do you think a soak in liquid wrench would work? I don't have any denatured alcohol.
I appreciate your input. I am just at such a loss with this machine. Although it doesn't sew properly, the little that it does do is nice. I was really looking forward to using this machine. By the way, is it normal for the needle to continue the up and down movement when taking your foot off the pedal? It's like it doesn't want to stop right away. It's the only machine I have that does this. Could this be a related issue (if it is one)?
I appreciate your input. I am just at such a loss with this machine. Although it doesn't sew properly, the little that it does do is nice. I was really looking forward to using this machine. By the way, is it normal for the needle to continue the up and down movement when taking your foot off the pedal? It's like it doesn't want to stop right away. It's the only machine I have that does this. Could this be a related issue (if it is one)?
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Rach,
I use the denatured alcohol because it leaves no residue. Oils, even the Liquid Wrench does leave a residue. Residue in the top tensions can cause trouble.
Soaking it in the LW won't hurt and might fix the problem, but a good degreasing afterwards will help a lot.
You can buy denatured alcohol at any hardware store. It's in the paint section I believe.
Joe
I use the denatured alcohol because it leaves no residue. Oils, even the Liquid Wrench does leave a residue. Residue in the top tensions can cause trouble.
Soaking it in the LW won't hurt and might fix the problem, but a good degreasing afterwards will help a lot.
You can buy denatured alcohol at any hardware store. It's in the paint section I believe.
Joe
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 165
Joe, thanks for the response. At least I have another starting point with this machine.
By the way, the link you provided is very helpful, informative and has easy to follow, detailed instructions! I really appreciate you sharing that!!! It will be a great resource for finding the actual names of parts as well. I guess metal screw thingy just doesn't always cut it, lol.
By the way, the link you provided is very helpful, informative and has easy to follow, detailed instructions! I really appreciate you sharing that!!! It will be a great resource for finding the actual names of parts as well. I guess metal screw thingy just doesn't always cut it, lol.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Thingy, dohicky, thingamajig, those are all technical terms. LOL
If you have a printer, print out the TFSR manual and put it in a notebook. That way you can keep it handy and not have to go back to the computer every time you need to check something.
Joe
If you have a printer, print out the TFSR manual and put it in a notebook. That way you can keep it handy and not have to go back to the computer every time you need to check something.
Joe
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Rubbing alcohol works well for cleaning parts too and is a lot cheaper. Whatever the problem is, it's small. You're very close to having nice looking stitches. Joe's advice is right on. Work on it as the mood strikes you and stop when you hit your frustration point. I'm assuming you have a class 15 bobbin case. You may need to take the spring off it and clean your bobbin case too. A little dirt in there can keep your tension from working properly and give you the results you're seeing. If you have another machine that uses the same case, try swapping cases as a quick test.
Rodney
Rodney
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,132
When you google for information on this machine, leave off the 158. and just use the first four numbers after the period, 1703. According to the youtube videos by niftythriftygirl, this machine has a powerful 1.2 amp motor and plenty of cams. In a discussion of this model on sewing pattern review, one owner says she had had this machine for many years and loves this machine, it will sew just about anything but knits, even though she tried changing needles, changing thread, etc. Are you using the same thread in both bobbin and on top? The thread in your bottom stitches looks shiny, but the red thread in the top stitching does not. Your sample is flannel. What does it look like when you stitch on two layers of cotton, or of layers of a heavier fabric.
#9
Is that pin still inside the tension unit? Unless it doesn't have one.... but your manual should indicate that.
Keep calm :-) - you'll figure it out!
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 165
If you have a printer, print out the TFSR manual and put it in a notebook. That way you can keep it handy and not have to go back to the computer every time you need to check something.
Rubbing alcohol works well for cleaning parts too and is a lot cheaper. Whatever the problem is, it's small. You're very close to having nice looking stitches. Joe's advice is right on. Work on it as the mood strikes you and stop when you hit your frustration point. I'm assuming you have a class 15 bobbin case. You may need to take the spring off it and clean your bobbin case too. A little dirt in there can keep your tension from working properly and give you the results you're seeing. If you have another machine that uses the same case, try swapping cases as a quick test.
I'll definitely try swapping out the case, I never even thought of that. Awesome idea! That would let me know if there's an issue with the Kenmore's case. I'll also try the rubbing alcohol. Not only is it cheaper, it smells a heck of a lot better than liquid wrench (not that either actually smell 'good'). Thanks for letting me know!
When you google for information on this machine, leave off the 158. and just use the first four numbers after the period, 1703. According to the youtube videos by niftythriftygirl, this machine has a powerful 1.2 amp motor and plenty of cams. In a discussion of this model on sewing pattern review, one owner says she had had this machine for many years and loves this machine, it will sew just about anything but knits, even though she tried changing needles, changing thread, etc. Are you using the same thread in both bobbin and on top? The thread in your bottom stitches looks shiny, but the red thread in the top stitching does not. Your sample is flannel. What does it look like when you stitch on two layers of cotton, or of layers of a heavier fabric.
Is that pin still inside the tension unit? Unless it doesn't have one.... but your manual should indicate that.
Yep, the pin is still in the unit. I had taken it off, but I put it back in when I reassembled. Thanks for checking though! That definitely could've caused some issues!
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